When I began drum scanning in the late 1990s, I tried every method known. Mounting "gel", heavy oil, spray powder (talc) mounting (i.e., dry mounting), taping just the film, overlays, thick oil, thin oil, you name it. The first day I had a mess on my hands, was stoned on cleaning fluid vapors, and it took all day just to scan a couple slides. Within 6 months I was scanning 4-5 full drums per day using batch scanning techniques (setting input parameters for each image; no global settings). 20-30 35mm pieces of film mounted, 12 medium format pieces, 4 4x5 pieces were all no problem (and, of course, 1 8x10 chrome if needed). My point: drum scanning full drums of film is far more efficient than other methods of scanning (e.g., Imacon, flat bed, copy camera).
The method: I used the anti-newton fluid from Prazio and full-drum overlays. Even if I was scanning only one piece of film, I'd use this method. It was fast and eliminated 95% of the dust particles. The anti-newton fluid evaporated (not as fast as Kami, which is known to cause crazing on some drums) which made cleaning the films & drums very easy.
SDS rings a bell, but I never used them. I can't remember if they're associated with Prazio or not. I would buy tape, overlays, wipes, mounting fluid and cleaner by the case from Prazio and their prices & shipping terms were great. Even from Canada, not a problem.
Regarding the crazing on your drum, it can be localized or cover the entire drum, depending on what caused it. If it's global, then even if you can't see it, it can cause the drum to be less than 100% clear and ruin all your scans. Hold each drum up to a very hard light source and look very closely at it. If it looks frosty, then get it lathed & polished or replaced.
