Double sided tape or Liquid nails?

[Phil Indeblanc]

I have a punch of 24x36 inch prints that are mounted on 1/4" Gator board.
I need to put a 3/4" stand-off, which I will likely make from wood or, just cut up some more Gator or foamboard.

I will likely glue or epoxy the standoff to the gator....

What double sided adhesive Velcro(Hook-Loop) can I use to put the prints on the wall?
I want to use a Hook/Loop system so I can change the print out if need be.  Are the Velco Industrial ones good, or are the 3M as good or stronger?
Do the adhesives have a bit give to take shape of a dimply wall? (I will likely wipe the wall area with an alcohol pad).

[bill t.]

Lowes and HD have a variety of hook and loop packs, some on fairly rigid plastic substrates and some on thin, tape-like substrates that would conform to your wall.  24 x 36 Gator should be no challenge.

Just remember that no matter how rigid your wall might be, you are ultimately limited by how well the paint is adhered in the specific location under your tape.  A local framer tells me he's getting a lot of business replacing frames that were dropped by the "tape anywhere" frame hangers which is now the only type you can get at many drugstores and supermarkets.  The strong adhesive joint rips the paint right off the wall.  The instruction sticker on the back of my frames states "DO NOT USE ADHESIVE HANGERS!" in all caps.

[Phil Indeblanc]

Thanks Bill...

I just needed a confirm like this to set my mind at ease :-)
good point about the paint. sometimes commercial places get paint a few coats with no prep work like sanding or anything.  Lets see what happens.

I had to know... "who is this guy", so I went to your site....Cool!:-)
Also some great images of NM landscape. Well done!

[BobShaw]

The instruction sticker on the back of my frames states "DO NOT USE ADHESIVE HANGERS!" in all caps.

I like that.

[Mark Lindquist]

If it was me, Phil, I would use light strips of 1/4" ply wood and use a French Cleat system.  If you put Velcro on their walls it will make a mess when it comes off.

See illustration via this LINK

You can glue the top hanger to the print, and put some corner tab standouts in each bottom corner.
Then you can fasten the wall hanger cleat however best - small screws in the wall, etc.  Patching a few small screws is better than patching a big Velcro rip.

Plus if you are doing similar size prints you will have a universal hanging system that will enable you to easily move the prints around from one location to another.

Works great - have done it many times.  Very sturdy and solid - prevents warping too.

-Mark

[bill t.]

If you drill two holes in the wall for screws, it's easy to hang a piece of 48 x 96 foam core, which costs not much.  Voila!  A wall that accepts push pins and thumb tacks.  The deluxe implementation includes screws at the bottom two corners as well.  I used to do this with a product called CeloTex, which I later found out had lots of asbestos.  Art can kill you.

[John V.]

I have some generic hook loop around here and not only has its adhesive ripped paint off walls, but the hook loop bond itself is so strong I could see it potentially damaging foamboard trying to pry it off the wall. Maybe, maybe not. It might be an "industrial" version.

[Mark Lindquist]

Art can kill you.

That's the truth.  I'm paying for many lapses in judgement over 45 years.  When you work with abrasives of any sort, if you do significant sanding, the silica, or whatever else that's in that abrasive medium is in the air - most people overlook that.

[Mark Lindquist]

I have some generic hook loop around here and not only has its adhesive ripped paint off walls, but the hook loop bond itself is so strong I could see it potentially damaging foamboard trying to pry it off the wall. Maybe, maybe not. It might be an "industrial" version.

You're right John, even when attmpting to move the foam core it could rip the crap out of the wall or the photo.
I speak from experience unfortunately.

[Phil Indeblanc]

I really like the way the French Cleat system works. I'm wondering how it fits commercial use with foot traffic, and earthquake prone walls. I'd hate to have any fall on someones head.
I was going to do the like sizes (most of them are 24x36) with the same distance off top and bottom.  I don't know how considerate I should be with a commercial wall. If the velco has an issue, I hope they can think to use some GooBGone to remove the rest :-) no?

(the mounted print on Gator will have a foamcore piece built up to about 3/4" off the Gator for the velco to stick on, so if something comes off it would act as a buffer between the velcro and Gator.)

[Mark Lindquist]

I really like the way the French Cleat system works. I'm wondering how it fits commercial use with foot traffic, and earthquake prone walls. I'd hate to have any fall on someones head.
I was going to do the like sizes (most of them are 24x36) with the same distance off top and bottom.  I don't know how considerate I should be with a commercial wall. If the velco has an issue, I hope they can think to use some GooBGone to remove the rest :-) no?

(the mounted print on Gator will have a foamcore piece built up to about 3/4" off the Gator for the velco to stick on, so if something comes off it would act as a buffer between the velcro and Gator.)

The French Cleat hanging system is used world wide by art galleries and is exceptionally strong and stable.
No way anything would be as tough, predictable and easy to layout and use consistently.  Once you determine the mounting height, glue the cleats onto the back of the photo mount material.  I would use a 20" wide cleat for a 36" wide print.  You can use 1/4" thick to make the print hug the wall or 1/2" thick to make it stand out creating a nice floating effect.  Anymore would be overkill.  Anchor the wall cleat with a few screws into the wall, or into a sheetrock fastener-there are many available.  Once you have your wall cleats all hung level, then you can place the pieces at will wherever they work best, and change them out easily.  Doubtful an earthquake could shake it loose - it's locked in and totally overkill.

Doesn't get any better then this - have to say.  :-)

[Phil Indeblanc]

It does sounds like a great solution, but "locked in" is not clear in the illustration. Can't someone simply push up? Besides gravity, what holds it in place? Keep in mind that the prints are on a gator board with no glass or frame weight, which are very light weight. With one finger I can imagine the print being pushed up and if high enough off the cleat.

I do find these excellent for any piece with some weight to it, specially in a place that prints will be viewed...being the primary reason for people. Some of these will be in a commercial lobby with the possibility of kids sitting right below them. (I'm going to spray the prints with Premier Shield just in case.)

[Mark Lindquist]

In each bottom corner there is a small block the thickness of the cleat.  It helps stabilize it and keeps the print the same distance from the wall uniformly..  Once the cleats are mated, it does take a bit to move them.  I have specific methods for locking the cleats but prefer not to discuss that openly.  It's a woodworker's trick.
Anyone could just as easily attempt to move the print with Velcro, as well.

[jferrari]

It does sounds like a great solution, but "locked in" is not clear in the illustration. Can't someone simply push up? Besides gravity, what holds it in place? Keep in mind that the prints are on a gator board with no glass or frame weight, which are very light weight. With one finger I can imagine the print being pushed up and if high enough off the cleat.

I do find these excellent for any piece with some weight to it, specially in a place that prints will be viewed...being the primary reason for people. Some of these will be in a commercial lobby with the possibility of kids sitting right below them. (I'm going to spray the prints with Premier Shield just in case.)

You may want to consider the T-Lok style of hanger.   - Jim

[Phil Indeblanc]

That looks very secure! I like this.
Maybe a bit involved to apply to each gator and the wall.
I would have to use wood as the buffer /standoff pieces for me to carefully measure drill then screw in the anchors. Would be fine to do so since it is for a 4-7+ year install.
(although if need be, replacing Velcro every 7 years isn't so bad either)

Honestly, if the Velcro isn't gonna fall off it just seams simple enough, and to reposition/fine tune adjust the height without having to be exact with screw alignment makes it more attractive.

But now I know 2 great alternates for other applications, and the visuals are gravured in my brain :-) thank you! 
(I will post here how the install goes.)

[framah]

I suggest a big honkin' wood screw in each corner thru the front of  the piece. It seems to work in all of those motels!!!

Seriously, the pinch cleat is your best bet with a tab of velcro at the bottom corners to hold it from being bumped up and off.

[Phil Indeblanc]

hehehe,
If I was to sandwich the prints in larger size plexi, I would do so with honking alum standoffs!

Yes, that would also work.....It sounds like a good balance between just Velcro and then the T Lok...

Besides me caring for the painted walls....Which I honestly don't....they are commercial, and who knows when it will be repainted...Why shouldn't I just Velcro it as suggested way above?
Besides the paint chipping off...Any down side? S far work involved and flexibility are positives the others lack to a degree.

[jferrari]

Why shouldn't I just Velcro it as suggested way above?

Phil, It's not about whether or not the Velcro is strong enough for the task it's the adhesive that holds the Velcro in place. Even the industrial Velcro's adhesive. You're basically gluing the print to the wall. If it takes any appreciable load at all it will fail. Just a matter of time especially if there is any heat involved.    -Jim

[Phil Indeblanc]

So your saying I otta staple the Velcro to the wall?  
(the side on the gator I don't think will release)