I used to glue my wife's torn-edge Arches art paper to various mounting boards with very good success.
Roll glue onto the back of the print, staying an inch or so away from the edges.
Weight down the glue covered center of the print with a piece of plywood with four, round-tipped nails in it, where the tips are sanded round, and there is a weight on the plywood. Just the tips of the nails contact the back of the glued print. This locks the print in position on the table while leaving the still dry edges exposed.
VERY CAREFULLY roll or brush glue out the edges, being sure not to apply so much pressure that the print shifts and glue gets on the front of the deckled edges. A small amount of the water based glue on the front of the deckles is not too bad, but try to avoid it.
Pick the entire glue print up and place on your mounting board. Use pins or blades to pry up the edges. Press down the center first to lock the print down, then with your fingers only gradually work the print out toward the edge and pat down the deckles with vertical-only finger motions.
If you have a pin light source right above the art as you lower it, you can see the sharp shadow of the art on the mounting board. If you first draw some positioning marks on the mounting board inside the area that will be covered, it's pretty to get exact positioning of the art on the board, but you really need a person on either side of the art to get it right, otherwise you can't see the marks well enough.
You inevitably get glue on your fingers during this step, so have some wet towels handy to de-glue your fingers before patting down the prints, or put on cotton gloves for the pat down.
Very easy the second time you try it.
The current too-cool way of presenting prints where the qualities of the paper itself are important is to display them in shadow-boxes, like
this. Preserves all the tactile qualities of the print, ripple, edge curl, and all. I like it.