Roll scraps to usable sheet paper

[Phil Indeblanc]

Anyone have any suggestions? I hate to waste good paper.

Rolling them reverse inside out only damages them the way I do it. I have been able to feed the roll's edge end by flattening it as I feed it, but its a bit of a struggle.

I have a bunch of roll scraps. Whats the best way to make them flat and usable?

[jferrari]

Search the forum for "D roller" or "DE roller." Just what the Doctor ordered. I made my own from a metal closet pole and a sheet of banner stock for less than ten bucks.    - Jim

[Phil Indeblanc]

$250! for 24" $350 for 50"? wow!
You made yours because you likely don't enjoy burning money, or maybe because you're not insane.
I think $50 would be ok for a large one with something clever made to make it easy or something. I think I will make my own. Maybe a 2-2.5 or so inch pipe. Heavy metal. Fill it with something like premixed concrete. Then a flexible plastic sheet or rubber sheet with maybe a felt inside or something. Duct tape it and try it out.....Before I spend $300.

[Ken Doo]

....I think I will make my own. Maybe a 2-2.5 or so inch pipe. Heavy metal. Fill it with something like premixed concrete......

Fill with pre-mixed concrete?  You must be younger than middle-aged...   

This is what I've done. I have two of my own "reverse-curl" rollers, one for shorter (thinner in width), and one for large pieces.

I use a large, heavy 3" core tube.  The larger cores are more "gentle" in the reverse curl---smaller cores will be more aggressive.  I use a thin, smooth (somewhat soft) substrate such as Tyvek (polyethlene) banner material---so as to avoid scratching.  Simply square off the material and adhere to your roller and roll it up.  I use a paper roll holder to keep it closed.  Most pieces take no more than a few seconds to de-curl, others may take a few minutes.

ken

[jferrari]

... or maybe because you're not insane.

My mother had me tested.

Heavy metal. Fill it with something like premixed concrete.

It's not about the weight. Save yourself the hassle, a hollow tube will work just fine.     - Jim

[TSJ1927]

Humidity is a major factor in decurling an image.  Certain fine art papers will absorb atmospheric humidity more than others.  Maybe these photos will help in some way.

Photo #1:  I used humid days to my advantage. This is a 44" section from a roll of Somerset Photo   (A 300gsm cotton paper).  The older the rolls the more persistent the curl, and hanging the print in a humid location (covered porch here) will relax the paper enough to use the de-curler.

Photo #2: After 3-4 min. the paper is ready to de-curl.

Photo #3: This is a DIY decurler using Savage Translum Diffusion material. (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?=Savage+Translum+Diffusion+Background+%2854%22+x+18%27%29&N=10046170&InitialSearch=yes&sts=pi)   It cost around $50.00 including shipping.  Thinner decurling material lets an crease imprint occur on thicker papers.  My work table is 4' x 8' so I trim the Tranlum to 48" wide a leave it on the roll it came.  The wooden wedge assist in tightening the roll.  This print took about 30 sec. to fully flatten.

Photo #4:  Wooden wedge detail (wood glue to Translum's paper tube)

Photo #5:  When not in use,  the decurler rest at the table's edge

Photo #6:  When natural atmospheric humidity is not present or you live in Arizona or the like,  Use one of these.  Cost about  $50.00.  Hold backside of print about 8-12 inches above the steam nozzle.

[huguito]

If I put a Matte paper like Epson Hot Press or baryta like Canson Photographique print on  my dry mounting press after letting it relax and uncurl a bit, just to make it really flat and 100% dry before mounting.
Will this damage the print in any way doing this?
Should this be done before or after coating?

Hugo

[Phil Indeblanc]

Nice suggestions here. Thank you.