Pages: [1]   Go Down

Author Topic: Ghana Photography Suggestions  (Read 3507 times)

Gabe

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 146
Ghana Photography Suggestions
« on: December 19, 2005, 12:48:28 pm »

Hi All

I just looked up at the calendar from this mountain of work I have in front of me, and the realisation that I'm leaving for Ghana in four days hit me like a ton of bricks!    

I'll be away until near the end of January, and don't really have much of a schedule planned other than to spend the first week or so decompressing on a beach somewhere. That's mandatory.

But beyond that, I'm planning to take the journey essentially one day at a time, and was wondering if any of you had been and can think of some "must shoot" locations in the country that would at least point me in a direction.

I've heard the Northern region can be quite interesting, and I've always had an inkling to see Bourkina-Fasso (if only to score a t-shirt that says Ouagadougou on it somewhere   ).. Mali is another place I've always wanted to see as well, so notes about either of those countries would be much appreciated in the event I decide to wander.


I'm reasonably well decided in terms of gear (F100; 17-35; 35-70; 70-210; tripod; billions of rolls of E6; possibly a 1.4x extender), but I'd be grateful for any suggestions that spring to mind in terms of things I'd be either crazy to forget, or insane to bother lugging all that way (erm... not including the choice of wet-chem camera though, LOL)!

Thanks in advance!!

gabe
Logged

william

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 472
Ghana Photography Suggestions
« Reply #1 on: December 19, 2005, 04:01:39 pm »

I was in Ghana about four years ago and got some great pics (not posted online anywhere, unfortunately).  At the time, I was shooting with a Contax 645 and film.  I was in Accra, Kumasi, Cape Coast, and several small towns along the southern coast -- I hired a driver to take me from Accra to Cape Coast, stopping along the way).  There are HUGE outdoor markets in both Acraa and Kumasi.  The Timber Market in Accra (which sells a LOT more than timber) was very interesting.  Cape Coast and Elmina castles (old slave trading forts) were very picturesque and powerful (at least for me, a black American).  The town of Elmina is also quite photogenic (well, some parts are photogenic in the "fishing boats and the ocean" sense, while other parts are photogenic in the "crumbling colonial architecture" sense).

In Accra, the Osu neighborhood is where the ex-pats live and is therefore a good break from the frantic hustle of Accra (well, at least I felt the need for a break).  There was a cool cafe there across from the U.S. consulate called Nuku Cafe, but I doubt it's there anymore.  There's also Ryan's Irish Pub in Accra (at the Ring Road strip mall/"entertainment complex", maybe?) -- it's a bit cheesy, but a good place to decompress.

When I was in Accra, the hotels were pretty bad.  The best (affordable) one that I found was in Osu.  You get a LOT more hotel for your money in Cape Coast (which is right on the beach, BTW) -- I stayed at a very swanky hotel for about $40/night.  Hotels in Kumasi were all hit-and-miss.

BTW, Accra itself (other than the Market) isn't really photographically that interesting. (It's interesting in other ways, of course).

Interestingly, I found the people to be very open and friendly, EXCEPT for having photos taken of them. I had several people get annoyed at my camera (totally understandable, of course).  In Cuba, by contrast, people either smiled at me or ignored me.
Logged

DiaAzul

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 777
    • http://photo.tanzo.org/
Ghana Photography Suggestions
« Reply #2 on: December 19, 2005, 05:50:17 pm »

I lived in Ghana (Accra) for 6 months in 1997, so my experiences may be a little dated by now.

I would agree with most of what William has written - the headlines don't change that much - but would add/augment the following.

1/ Africa is a big big big continent, and Ghana is a very large country. If you are thinking of taking in other countries then you need to think very carefully about travel times, travel reliability, visa and entry requirements - you would need a multiple entry Visa for Ghana which would increase the cost substantially, etc...I would recommend if this is your first time to stay in one country until you have experience of 'the African' way of doing things.

2/ If you are taking trips out then talk to the hotel about getting a driver - do not drive yourself (the roads are bad, and if you hit something/someone, there could be big trouble - there is no guarantee that the rule of law will hold). It is also worth getting a driver that can provide advice on when, where you can take pictures and, also, help in getting permission to take pictures from local people).

3/ Places to look at:

a/ Aburi botanical Gardens - These are to the north of Accra and were created in conjunction with the help of kew Botanical Gardens in London. In the same vicinity there is a large woodcraft village where locals make quite intricate carvings (for which Ghana is quite famous). I would check carefully that your purchases can be imported into your home country as some of the wood may be on prohibited lists - though I believe that they are more attuned to what can be exported.

b/ All along the cost from Accra to Port Tema can be quite pretty - especially around Elmina. As William pointed out Elmina castle is worth a visit (also there is a church on the hill opposite if I remember with good views). Worth being here for sunset. The tour guide gave a bit of a hard sell on the Slavery side of things, but if you have read any history on the subject it is nothing that will give you goosebumps.

c/ Kakum National Park - this is to the noth of Elmina. We did visit here, but didn't find too much to make hay with. Perhaps because we picked up a local from the side of the road that promised to track down some elephants for us, however, after 15 minutes of tracking in the jungle he turned back because he was afraid to be attacked by tigers!!!

d/ Somewhere near Accra are the coffin makers - funerals are big business in Ghana and there are a number of manufacturers of speciallity coffins which catch the eye as you drive past.

e/Port Tema is more picturesque than Accra, though was very run down. Though if you go north of Tema towards Kumasi you will pass through the gold fields. The countryside around here is much more mountainous. You can't go into the gold mines themselves, but I do remember a roadside stop in the mining town where there were monkey's and interesting picture opportunities.

f/ Kumasi is the main Ashanti town. The Ashanti's are well known for there coloured fabrics and the town has one of the largest markets in Africa. There may be some opportunities around here though I didn't have much time to stop other than five minutes to poke head out of the van.

g/ I had some friends go up to Mole national park where they claimed to see Elephants - you may or may not get lucky.

h/ Lake Volta and the Akosombo Dam is a long drive from Accra - and if you have seen one dam, you have seen the template for many others. This one doesn't rate highly on the picture-o scale.

Other things to watch out for in Ghana that are not place specific:
1/ There is a veritable cornucopia of wildlife that you may not see anywhere else. As a for instance, we came across two tracks of soldier ants where (using there own bodies) they had created tunnels about 5 cm wide and 2 cm high, through which the worker ants were carrying leaves and other stuff. One night there was an explosion in the population of big flying bugs due to rainfall earlier in the day. The bugs did there thing that night and died by the next morning - but during the night the sky was thick with buzzy things.

2/ Whilst the towns and cities you will see relative wealth, in the countryside you will come across extreme poverty - i.e. of the no electricity, no running water variety (however, the probably will have a mobile phone ;-)  If documenting this is your thing then there are plenty of photo opportunities. The North of the country is much poorer than the South, the North is Muslim Vs Christian in the South (though these to points are not correlated) - implication is that there is perhaps some interesting stuff up north, but no-one goes there except very few NGOs.

last advice - make sure that you get all your vaccinations and take some basic medicine with you (not always available). Be prepared for some rather un-inspired food, dark/early nights, and poor noisy air-conditioning.

Have a good holiday and show us some piccies when you get back - unfortunately, I didn't have a camera with me so would be nice to see how it looks now.
Logged
David Plummer    http://photo.tanzo.org/

Gabe

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 146
Ghana Photography Suggestions
« Reply #3 on: December 19, 2005, 10:11:00 pm »

Thank you both SO much for your thoughtful replies! This is exactly the kind of info I was looking for -- MUCH appreciated. I'm copying all of these suggestions into my little book and will be sure to go to them whenever I'm looking for inspiration!

some convo:

Quote
1/ Africa is a big big big continent, and Ghana is a very large country. If you are thinking of taking in other countries then you need to think very carefully about travel times, travel reliability, visa and entry requirements - you would need a multiple entry Visa for Ghana which would increase the cost substantially, etc...I would recommend if this is your first time to stay in one country until you have experience of 'the African' way of doing things.
Sage advice indeed. I've already got my multiple entry visa just in case, and have been to Africa before, but I very well might not make it out of Ghana at all, as I do like to get a feel for a place before I move on (and I certainly won't have accomplished that before it's time to leave).

This is also the reason why I more-or-less refuse to schedule my vacations -- I've already got a 9-5 schedule that controls the rest of my year, and that's plenty

Quote
g/ I had some friends go up to Mole national park where they claimed to see Elephants - you may or may not get lucky.

{.....}

2/ Whilst the towns and cities you will see relative wealth, in the countryside you will come across extreme poverty - i.e. of the no electricity, no running water variety (however, the probably will have a mobile phone ;-)  If documenting this is your thing then there are plenty of photo opportunities. The North of the country is much poorer than the South, the North is Muslim Vs Christian in the South (though these to points are not correlated) - implication is that there is perhaps some interesting stuff up north, but no-one goes there except very few NGOs.
Mole is quite likely to be a place I get to, actually. I was trying to keep things brief, but probably should have mentioned that the main reason I'm going to Ghana is to spend Christmas with my girlfriend, who has been there for the past 5 months hosting a radio show out of Tamale (in the North) on the local station Diamond FM. I miss her something fierce.

She's managed to score a precious week away from work (hence the decompression on the beach plan -- I think we're actually going to Cape Coast, William, though I'm not certain. Elmina sounds awfully familiar though), so I'll definitely be heading north with her when she has to go back, and Mole is just down the road.. Seems too good an opportunity to pass up, and she's seen elephants on each of the three weekends she's been there, so I'm quite excited about the possibility of that..

I'll have to leave her be once we get to Tamale, since she has a show to produce  But apparently the road is paved all the way to Ouagadougou from there, so that's why I'm considering making the trip.. and seriously: once you've got yourself that far, is it really possible not to imagine taking in the high-street in jolly ol' Tombouctou? (Mali and Ghana also produce some of my very favourite music - especially Mali, so it's always been a dream of mine to get there someday)


But Janey's not a shooter, and hasn't managed to travel all that extensively while she's been there - except in the North - which is why I threw my questions out to the infallible and insanely well travelled resource here at the LL.... I knew I should have put some money down on my odds of getting exactly what I was looking for!  

Quote
Have a good holiday and show us some piccies when you get back - unfortunately, I didn't have a camera with me so would be nice to see how it looks now.
It's a deal! You can spend the time between now and then dreaming up pleasant euphemisms for "    WTF were you thinking???!?!"


Already drooling at the sound of Red Red, but loading up on Burger Burger before I go,
gabe
« Last Edit: December 19, 2005, 10:15:56 pm by Gabe »
Logged

Sune Wendelboe

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 19
Ghana Photography Suggestions
« Reply #4 on: January 16, 2006, 01:39:50 pm »

Hi Gabe.

I went to ghana and Burkina Faso and got somerelly nice photos. Accra sucks, try Cape Coast for good photography og local Ghanaian ´photos, Hans Cottage Botel (so weird that name) has a colony of yellow weaver birds that are amazing

(check out: http://www.globalphotographic.net/Smaller%20wildlife.htm )

The northern regions are so cool you wont believe it, but it does require uncorfortable travelling and some guts. I went from cap to cap (they get lost so easily when they are out of their home area - "outside villages very baaaad very dangerous") went 3000 miles by 50+ cabs, paid 500$, argued a lot, but had some good times and got to go to the villages I wanted, dusty remote but fun.

The northen part and Burkina is full of curious, friendly people not at all used to dealing with white folks "Welcome White One" is a frase wou'll hear often.

So... drop the beaches, somebody already dropped something on them, to to the north!


Sincerely
Sune Wendelboe

www.globalphotographic.net
Logged

Gabe

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 146
Ghana Photography Suggestions
« Reply #5 on: January 17, 2006, 08:23:17 am »

Thanks for the reply Sune!

I'm actually still in Ghana as I write this -- up in the Northern region where I've spent the majority of my trip so far (although Janey and I did work in some high-quality beach time, as that was manditory -- we went a little further down the coast from Accra than Cape Coast, to a place called Butre. Really nice, and nearly deserted).

Ghana is truly an amazing place, and I'm sad to have to leave in a couple of days (I'll be back in Toronto on Friday ), although I can't say my butt will miss the 'pleasant' afternoons I've spent bumping around the countryside in countless tro-tros. I never did get to Burkina, as there was simply too much Ghana to look at (and not enough time by a long-shot to take it all in), so that will have to wait for another trip.

Lots of stories from this journey.. The day before yesterday I was chased into the forest by an elephant at Mole National Park, which is definitely one of those crap-in-your-pants moments* I'll never forget -- I'm fairly certain I got a few frames off during the encounter, but I seriously doubt they'll be sharp   We'll just have to see what comes back from the lab when I get home (definite bonus goes to digital in situations like that)!


Promising to share whatever did work out,

gabe




* Note: figure of speech only. To this day, my pants contain no crap.  
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up