Macro stacking techniques and software questions

[wmchauncey]

I can see two ways to capture the images>moving the camera via handheld or rail system or...
locking the camera down and changing focusing point via tethered software as in CamRanger.

My software of choice remains PS CC for the assembly process but...I'm having difficulty with artifacts in the assembled image.
Question is...which capture technique would serve me better and...is there better blending software than PS CC?

[Bart_van_der_Wolf]

I can see two ways to capture the images>moving the camera via handheld or rail system or...
locking the camera down and changing focusing point via tethered software as in CamRanger.

Hi,

The 'best' method depends on the size and type of object, although there is also a convenience factor involved. A very good summary is complied by the author of one of the more popular stacking software products.

My software of choice remains PS CC for the assembly process but...I'm having difficulty with artifacts in the assembled image.
Question is...which capture technique would serve me better and...is there better blending software than PS CC?

Dedicated focus stacking software (e.g. Helicon Focus or Zerene Stacker) offers several method to choose from. Which method creates the fewest artifacts also depends on the subject structure/layout. Some methods handle surface structures better, others do better on sharp edges and/or occlusions. One can also mix and match methods.[/quote]

That possibility of manual user intervention sets them apart from e.g. Photoshop, and the dedicated programs also offer automated/tethered support, e.g. Helicon Remote.

Cheers,
Bart

[MrSmith]

I stack wristwatch shots with Helicon Focus, I found it much better than PS which always seemed to have areas that were way out of focus especially in flat or fine grained textures.
Admittedly I didn't persevere with PS for stacking and went straight to Helicon focus.
I find method C (I think it's C?) can be a bit gritty so if I have to use it for complicated watch movement stacks I'll output unsharpened files for stacking with that method.
I'm not an advanced user though and just use the defaults, the retouch tool is very good as I can blend in OOF areas that are dirty or scratched so they look smooth in the final stack.

[wmchauncey]

I gotta tell ya Bart, that linked explanation from Zerene  was one stellar piece of information...thanks.
I thank you guys for your insight.     

[Bart_van_der_Wolf]

I find method C (I think it's C?) can be a bit gritty so if I have to use it for complicated watch movement stacks I'll output unsharpened files for stacking with that method.

Hi,

You can create a stacked result with e.g. Method 'A', and one with Method 'B' or 'C', and then create a new stack and use the Retouching functionality with both Method results, or add the result from one method to another Method's stack. That allows to combine the best results for surfaces and edges.

Cheers,
Bart

[Ellis Vener]

I can see two ways to capture the images>moving the camera via handheld or rail system or...
locking the camera down and changing focusing point via tethered software as in CamRanger.

The Camranger now works directly with the StackShot to automatically move the camera and lens. You need a Camramger; the PTHub, which also will work with their motorized pan and tilt head the MP-360, and the StackShot Macro Rail set up. It's discussed here: http://camranger.com/macro-focusstacking/

Whether it's best to move just the focus point of the lens (manually or through the CamRanger) or the lens and camera together really depends o nthe subject matter.

[elf]

I'd say neither one is best, or even better.  Moving the subject may be a better choice in some cases. I generally prefer to use a bellows and move the camera only not the lens.  This allows rotating the setup around the entrance pupil for macro panoramas.

[Otto Phocus]

I use an add-on to LR called Enfuse.  Very easy to use and it can be used for both focus stacking and exposure stacking.