Mounting tiled photos into gallery size: tips, techniques needed

[jpetep]

I'm using perfect resize to create tiles for a larger, gallery sized picture. I understand how to create the tiles...what I'm wondering about is mounting them...I won't be mounting using "splits" but would have it appear as one large photo...

- If overlapped won't I end up with more of a seam than with no overlap and edges touching
- is there a popular way to mount a larger (say 40-60) photo....canvas, wood, large foam board?...I'm thinking I would do canvas, with a wood frame
- I've read about using mod podge - is that a good product to use for the adhesive and topcoat?

This is for personal, not professional, use.

Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thx.

[Paul2660]

If you go canvas and Gallery wrap, you have to consider the image that will be wrapped, easiest way to handle this is a solid color, the stretch can get a bit tricky as you have lineup the edges and hope you didn't skew too much (if you use Epson large format).  You can also mount the canvas tiles to gator and then just frame them with a simple metal frame.  The frame will cut just slightly into the image, 1/4" each side, but it will look fine.  You can mirror the edges, but IMO this tends to look worse than a solid edge often times the edges look like kaleidoscope images.  Distracting to me.
 
You can also go the way the the big shops, Midwest Photo for example do, they will mount the prints on a surface then place a solid edge around the piece, basically a box.  Most times this is black or dark grey and you can easily hang these since you have the inside edges.  For mounting, you would want to consider eye screws as they will fit inside the box and help hold the pieces flush to the wall. 

Paul

[hugowolf]

I have used Ampersand cradled Claybord and Gessobord
http://www.dickblick.com/products/ampersand-gessobords/
http://www.dickblick.com/products/ampersand-claybords/

with 3M 568 positionalble mounting adhesive; it comes in 11", 16", and 24" lengths:
http://www.amazon.com/3M-568-Positionable-Mounting-Adhesive/dp/B00023JK88

You would print slightly larger and trim off the excess with a blade or rotary trimmer:
http://www.amazon.com/Olfa-Deluxe-Rotary-Cutter-60mm/dp/B001CE5DLE/ref=sr_1_1?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1397663983&sr=1-1&keywords=ofla+60

You can poke small holes through the print, from the print side, a fraction out from each corner. Then use this to align the prints on the board.

I have generally just used Hahnemühle protective spray, but Breathing Color has a couple of lines of protective finishes (Timeless and Glamour) if you want something more resilient. The Hahnemühle will protect against UV, minor abrasions, and splashes, but wil not protect against something like someone scratching with their nails.

If you are thinking of doing somethinng similar, I would advise getting a couple of cradled boards and trying it first. The gesso boards have a more resilent surface. The claybord surface can easily be chip, if you don't handle them carefully before mounting the prints.

Brian A

[bgphoto]

If it is for yourself you could take unfinished masonite purchased from your local big box hardware store and then glue the canvas to its surface with a coat of watered down Elmers white glue. I have tried this for testing purposes and the adhesion is very good.

I believe that I had sprayed the front of the print with a protective spray or coating before gluing the print down.

Ben

[PeterAit]

I have had great results mounting the tiles on dibond. No frames or borders, so you can hang the finished tiles with perhaps 1/4" gap between them and the end result looks great. You do want a wall mounting method that keeps the tiles parallel to the wall.