Not to complicate things more, but....
1. Almost any new camera and a decent lens will do the trick. So, be assured that it is hard to make a wrong choice. See #2:
2. Think about weight and ergonomics - do you like holding and using the camera? I would advise getting a camera with a viewfinder that you like and a live view option that you like. Properly implemented live view is WONDERFUL for using cameras on a tripod - you get to magnify the image 10x to check for critical focus, etc. Swivel screens are handy for those who want to put their cameras very high or very low on or off tripod. If your viewpoint will be 1 ft off the ground, it is easier to squat a little bit and look at a tilted screen than to to flop down on your belly and peer through the viewfinder.
3. You will want to get a nice tripod and head and an L bracket for your camera. Pick up a wired (or wireless) cable release/ intervalometer, while you are at it.
4. You will want to get a comfortable carriage system for the camera - lots of options. I am a big fan of the Cotton Carrier vest system, which can handle an SLR with up to a 400mm f/5.6 lens (my birding lens) and still leave both hands free for any scrambling and balancing needed. Plus, the vest system can be worn with (underneath) any backpack. This might be overkill for some cameras, some terrains, and for those who are not needing to drag along their tent, bag, food, etc for a several days trip. A "fanny pack" aka "Lumbar pack" is another option for the day hiker, as are hunters'/fishers'/photographers' vests (lots of pockets) and belt systems where you hang your lens bag, water bottle, etc off a sturdy belt. Some large format photographers use carpenters' aprons to hold small accessories and film holders. Have a favorite backpack already, but want a protective insert for camera and lens? You can get neoprene protective wraps for the camera, lenses can fit in a fishing reel case (foam dividers), etc. Make sure, whatever your camera carriage system is, that you have some provision for carrying maps, rain gear, lunch, water, sunscreen, extra pair socks, the good old Scouting "10 essentials".
5. You will want to get a circular polarizer filter, which will intensify color by removing excess reflection. (Circular is the filter type, not the filter shape - old film era polarizers, which are "linear polarizers", don't work for modern autofocusing and modern sensors). Later, you may want to get an ultra-dense neutral density filter (9 to 10 stops: OD 2.7 to 3.0), which allows one to make very long exposures to a. smooth out water b. get rid of milling crowds c. show movement of clouds d. any other effect that you can get with a 30 sec or longer exposure. Some people will get into graduated neutral density filters - check out the Lee Filters site to see how these are used.