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Author Topic: Japanese winter landscape  (Read 3751 times)

BernardLanguillier

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Re: Japanese winter landscape
« Reply #20 on: March 03, 2014, 07:57:04 pm »

Amazing ~!  Awful lot of work , though... Never did multiple images and layered them.  Too old school = just use the aperture and critical focus.  

 Really nice feature of the Rollei SL66 > had a dropping front bed for the lens > would do almost exactly what the required steps you have taken ~~ in one exposure.
Scheimpflug principle http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scheimpflug_principle


With film :: you simple expose for the lows /mids and then process the film to hold your sky value ...Even this bright of situation = you could bring that sky down with the Zone system.

Digitally ::  Expose the first image  :: focus 2/3's in (roughly) at ISO 100 > 500 @ 22 > 24mm ++++  second image at about 125 @ 22 >>>BLEND

Yes, you can do that.

I use a 4x5 camera too, but:
- the image quality I get from stitching is clearly superior,
- the bulk of the equipment in the field is a lot less,
- autonomy is pretty much infinite while film sheets strongly limit the number of images that can be captured,
- DoF stacking is more generic in that it can render a scene sharply for any type of subject, not just those sitting in a plane,
- I find stitching to be fun!  ;D

But I am not trying to convince anyone that this is the way to go. It is just one tool in a tool kit.

Cheers,
Bernard

Sareesh Sudhakaran

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Re: Japanese winter landscape
« Reply #21 on: March 04, 2014, 03:55:38 am »

Thanks.

In fact I have never really needed a viewfinder to vizualise the images I intend to capture. I just...
- look at a scene,
- find an area I like,
- decide what needs to be in/out,
- translate that into virtual corners,
- add a bit of margin to take into account the impact of projection during stitching,
- position the triopd + pano head,
- double check the angular limits of the head to match the virtual corners I vizualized,
- start shooting.

All that can be done in a few seconds.  ;)

Cheers,
Bernard


Thanks for the explanation! One last question: I understand 10-30% overlap between images, but on average, how much do you allow for the outer borders of a frame? Or, let me put it another way: Since you have shot many images, what would you say is the allowance that will guarantee you don't miss out on any corner information?

My personal interest is shooting humans, somewhat similar to the Benizer method, but strictly confined to standard formats like 6x7 and 4x5. This is why I asked the composition question. Thanks again!
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