Hasselblad H4D-31 Vs 5DMk3 Is it like buying a cheap Porsche?

[Joe Towner]

4) Starting with "I see a good deal on XYZ, will it work well for me?" is, in my experience, a recipe for disappointment and frustration. If you're interested in medium format you should start by asking "What would work well for me?" and THEN look for a good deal on that equipment (including the value of warranty, condition, support, training, accessories and accessory condition, cost of additional items you're likely to want in the future like backup bodies, other lenses, cost of repairs or rentals/replacements/loaners if you have any issues etc). The world is large, and unless you need something tomorrow then you'll find a good deal on whatever equipment you find by research/testing/opinions; jumping on a particular deal you see that you think is especially good - unless it is absolutely exceptional - is giving yourself an artificial and dangerous deadline.

THIS!  Never buy based on a perceived deal...  Define your need, then start looking around.  You may find a cheaper solution that you didn't consider because you were wrapped up in the details you saw first.  I love my H, but I bought it with my eyes wide open as to what it does well, and what it doesn't, not because I got a deal.

[Nick-T]

The difference that an MS back would exhibit when compared to H3D-31 (or other single shot) for jewellery, would be far greater than 5D when compared to single-shot MF… It's the requirements of the particular project (jewellery) that favours MS in particular… Whatever still-life includes "shiny-metals", MS is the king as much so, as it is with painting reproduction. In other still-life appliances, MS superiority won't be so obvious (though still present) as with the above projects…

The difference with multi-shot is indeed very apparent. I still shoot with an ancient 16MP multi-shot, as well as a 5D2, D800, H3d31, and H4D40, they all have their place in my opinion.

Nick-T

[eronald]

The difference with multi-shot is indeed very apparent. I still shoot with an ancient 16MP multi-shot, as well as a 5D2, D800, H3d31, and H4D40, they all have their place in my opinion.

Nick-T

In what way does the H4D40 not replace the 31?

Edmund

[Nick-T]

Edmund
That is well said, the 31 is now a backup to the 40.

[Theodoros]

The difference with multi-shot is indeed very apparent. I still shoot with an ancient 16MP multi-shot, as well as a 5D2, D800, H3d31, and H4D40, they all have their place in my opinion.

Nick-T

The additional advantage of 396C Imacon (I suspect that's what you use), with respect to jewellery is that the square frame is ideal for it, thus, the use of an Imacon 528c (that's what I use) or a Sinarback 54H, would add nothing to the particular project. Besides, 396c is considerably cheaper and easier to find in the S/H market. Extremely reliable too. I will insist, (despite Doug's objection) that one that does jewellery, needs an MS back, further more than achieving the optimum result for the job, he will never have to upgrade again for still photography… Of course if one chooses to invest on a (rare to find because of its advantages) 528c, or 22MS, or even the (4x only) 39MS, he may find that the extended image area can provide a very capable single shot back too, to the extend that "upgrading" (in single shot only) may not worth considering, since he will have the ultimate in all his still life shots and a very capable back for the (usually less demanding) single shot ones… If the pro however doesn't do still life at all (rare but it happens), but only single shot, then he may have a different perspective of things.

P.S.Pity that Sinar doesn't do "self-contained" MS capable MFDBs… I think they should consider that possibility now that they are with the Leica ship, there is a great "orphan" market there among pros after the discontinuation of the CF series of backs.

[dirkpieters]

Thanks for the replies everyone, great advice indeed. I have done a Phocus LR test which I'll post on Monday.
Also looking forward to posting a Canon software option.
I think the MS back is a great idea, I'll have a look at it.
D

[Jim Kasson]

sony A7r with adapter to match whatever macro lens you wish to work with would be my choice if i wanted to shoot jewellery
that or a novoflex bellows or horseman with rodenstock 75mm api rodagon lens so you have tilt.  more bang per $

In the following, I'm assuming that you're using electronic flash for illumination.

If you decide to go this low end route, when you do your testing, make sure you use trailing curtain synch and shutter speeds of 1/25 or longer. That way you can work around the a7R's shutter shock.

http://blog.kasson.com/?p=4526

You might want to take some of the money you save and buy a really good macro lens, if you don't have a Canon lens that you like. Be sure to factor the Hassy 120mm into your calculations if you go that way.

If you are using continuous illumination, I'd forget the a7R and go with the Hassy to get the leaf shutter.

Jim

[BernardLanguillier]

How about using a Sigma SD1 with one of the excellent Sigma macro lenses and focus stacking?

Cheers,
Bernard