I vote for the first one as well, contrail and all. Plenty of blacks in it. It's a white place, make it mostly white!
The picture struck me instantly as an original and distinctive take, and very lovely. It's a weird place, because it *does* look like snow. I spent some time there and took a pretty good picture once, and one of the things that makes the place photographically interesting is that it is visual ambiguous. It's hitting our 'Coooold!' buttons and our 'Hot! Hot!' buttons at the same time.
Embrace the ambiguity!