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Author Topic: What to look for in matt board?  (Read 3626 times)

arlon

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What to look for in matt board?
« on: December 16, 2013, 10:58:03 am »

I got a decent used mat cutter and have been experimenting with mat boards from Hobby Lobby but they are really beat up and probably not the greatest quality to begin with. I'm thinking I might be able to get better stuff by ordering online. Any suggestions for sources and types of board? I'm just doing this for my personal use, not a business. I'm looking for small quantities (10or sheets in 30x40). Still like to have them look decent when I'm done.
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Justan

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Re: What to look for in matt board?
« Reply #1 on: December 16, 2013, 11:45:11 am »

Probably the least expensive solution is to find a local supplier and buy from them. Shipping can kill in more ways than one on stuff this size because it's expensive to ship and corners get bent easily. There are a few different thicknesses available for matt board; some are acid free and some are not. I use materials made by Crescent and Bainbridge. There are other brands as well. There are lots of colors and textures available.

Buy several blades and always use a very sharp blade when cutting this stuff. Practice a lot on the least expensive board you can find. Ask the shop if they have anything selling at a steep discount so you can practice, and you'll get a good sense of when the blade becomes too dull to use. It doesn’t take long. Another possibility is to go to a framer's shop and ask them if they have scrap they'll sell you to practice on. Always use a clean and non-cut section of matt board under the one you are cutting as an underlayment. Previous cuts on the underlayment can catch the blade and produce lots of odd results.

Methodically clean the matt cutter before you use it and make sure it is tracking straight with no resistance. Every speck of dust on the cutter’s path will translate to whatever you are cutting.

It's fun to learn this art form, but very exacting to do it right.

RachelleK

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Re: What to look for in matt board?
« Reply #2 on: December 16, 2013, 12:23:56 pm »

Try Blick Art.  I use Crescent 4 ply rag.  They have free shipping over $99.

http://www.dickblick.com/products/crescent-ragmat-matboard/
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Paul2660

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Re: What to look for in matt board?
« Reply #3 on: December 16, 2013, 12:39:05 pm »

Buying online can save per Matt cost but you can get eaten up in shipping.  Most companies are selling 32 x 40 or 40 x 60.  If you are wanting 30 x 40 as your outer size buying 40 x 60 may save some dollars.  United manufacters and framingsupply are two that come to mind.  To get a break on shipping most will require you to buy 25 mats.  Shipping is the killer for buying.  

Most mat companies will sell several lines.  The local Hobby Lobby type store will have only a paper mat which will yellow over time where the cut is.  Crescent makes lines including a paper. Their SRM line will cost a bit more but will not yellow. Crescent has several lines above the SRM topping out with their rags.  Bainbridge also has the same setup.  Note the term "paper" is an industry one which refers to a mat with no archival qualities.  Hobby Lobby can get the more expensive mats and offer them to their framing customers.

I use a Flether 2200 cutter and usually replace the cutting blade after each 4 cuts.  Blades are cheap and a dull blade can ruin a corner fast.  

Paul Caldwell



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arlon

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Re: What to look for in matt board?
« Reply #4 on: December 17, 2013, 11:40:23 am »

Thanks for the info. I'm also using a Fletcher 2200. Do you have a preference in blade width? I see they have .012 and .015.. Not sure what I have now.
I do know I have NOT been changing blades as often as 4 cuts. Probably more like 20. Maybe the reason for some of the issues I've had. I also have not had fresh under board for each cut. I've been cutting a few sides before repositioning the cutting board under my mat. Lot to learn, thanks for the help. I'd kill to sit at someone's side for a few minutes of mat cutting but there isn't anyone here I know of doing it. Problem with a smallish town.

I ordered some crescent 4ply online, ended up costing about $6/sheet 30x40 delivered. Similar to hobby lobby but the stuff they has been there for years and all of it is dinged beyond belief. They have had a sale on it a few times but I needed some stuff for Christmas presents and couldn't wait. I'll look at the other online sources mentioned. At $6 a board, I can afford that but I'm also not doing a much volume. Had to buy 25 sheets but that will last me a most of a year. (-:}
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Paul2660

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Re: What to look for in matt board?
« Reply #5 on: December 17, 2013, 04:56:26 pm »

I use both the .12 and .15 depending on the mat.  The Rags are 100% cotton and can be ruined by a dull blade, the SRM's are a bit tough and I like the .12 on them as it seems to cut a bit better.   I am probably being a bit conservative on the 4 cuts, but those 4 cuts were on a 30 x 40 with a 3.5" reveal.  On 16 x 20, or 24 x 32 ( I size I just prefer), I will go a bit longer.  Also if you use Black core, the blade will dull a lot faster.  But still blades are so cheap, and a dull one can ruin cut number 8 on a double mat and there goes the whole deal.

The fresh board for each cut is really important IMO.  You can use scrap board for this and you don't have to move it very much just enough so the blade hit's a new fresh piece of mat underneath each time.  On Crescent 32 x 40 dollars a board for Paper? SRM, etc.  Remember anyone's base mat is essentially all paper with no ability to resist yellowing and you will quickly see the nice white edge on the cut turn yellow, which IMO ruins the board.  The SRM's do a great job here, are still a alpha cellulose but won't yellow on the cuts. 

The 2200 is great machine, a bit finicky and IMO is easy to get out of true, at least mine is but it can make a nice cut.  Only wish it would do 8 ply in a single cut which it won't so I still have those cut for me.

Paul Caldwell
 
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arlon

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Re: What to look for in matt board?
« Reply #6 on: December 17, 2013, 05:58:16 pm »

I'm just using the cheap stuff while I'm learning to use the cutter. Messed up 4 small mats last weekend trying to make an odd size. All stupid mistakes but not what I want to do on pricy board.  When I get more confident with the cutter and learn a few of it's quirks I want to waste the cheapest board I can. Hope to get confident enough to use some of the good stuff, also by then I might have the printing down a little better too.
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Justan

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Re: What to look for in matt board?
« Reply #7 on: December 17, 2013, 08:37:01 pm »

^That's normal.

You can learn a lot by going to the fletcher-terry site and looking at their video series on their mat cutters. After that, go to youtube and look up mat cutters there as well.

I use latex exam gloves i got at costco for any contact with mat board (and most other media). That way no oils from my hands ever make it to the board or artwork.

Make sure the cutter is square before you start. Use a good framer's square for this and you can make test cuts to verify.

One of the things I did to help learn how to get clean corners and also to conserve on mat board while practicing is start with a larger piece and cut a small window roughly in the middle. After that make successively larger cuts in the same piece by about a quarter inch or so and continue to work to get perfect corners without an overcut. You’ll end up with enough cut out squares or rectangles to produce some nice mat based artwork and will probably get cleanish looking corners before too long.

Pay close attention to the edge condition on the cut media. Use a 6x or > magnifying glass. The condition of the cut edges will show you when the blade starts to get dull. You should change it before it starts to snag or ruffle the cut media. The amount you can cut will vary with the type of board you are using. You can kind-of tell from the resistance it offers, but the best way is to actually look closely at the cut media.

Also invest in what’s called a whale bone burnishing tool and learn use how to use it to hide minor over-cuts. Its function is unobvious at first but with a delicate touch it will perform feats of magic and hide minor mistakes.

When it’s been a while since I’ve used the mat cutter, I always make a test cut using the exact dimensions of the work to make sure everything is square and as expected before working on the target mat board.

I also clean all the contact surfaces before each session with lighter fluid and a lint free cloth and measure with a framer’s square to make sure that the cutter is actually square. You really can’t be too fussy with these things.

Lastly, be very very careful around the cut pieces and keep bandages nearby. The cut pieces are just about as sharp as the razor that cut them. The first time you accidentally rub your finger or arm on a newly made edge just may be an experience you dream about. . . .

arlon

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Re: What to look for in matt board?
« Reply #8 on: December 18, 2013, 08:48:29 am »

SOme great tips. I really appreciate the info. I have not really checked the cutter for square either. I got lucky and foud this one in a garage sale and have just used it. Hadn't really thought about how squaare it really is. Have a good framing square I can check with. Thanks again for the tips. Have to cruise youtube tonight. Always forget about youtube videos for things like this.
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Remo Nonaz

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Re: What to look for in matt board?
« Reply #9 on: December 18, 2013, 09:01:37 am »

I have been very pleased with the service and products from Golden State Art, http://www.goldenstateart.com/. They have a good range of offerings and can do custom work as well. If you notice on the top left side of their main page, they also have a selection of 'free shipping' items. As noted by others, shipping  can be expensive. Their free shipping items usually are higher volume (25 to 50 pieces) of standard size or pre-cut matts. But, if you need a lot of 16 x 20 board for 11 x 14 images, as an example, these are attractively priced.
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Paul2660

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Re: What to look for in matt board?
« Reply #10 on: December 18, 2013, 10:16:36 am »

The only real way to true it is using the truing kit from Fletcher.  It's not that expensive and it's very key to using the cutter.  It will slowly get out of true especially if you move if to a vertical position as I do to store mine.

They have a video on their website showing how to do it and their parts dept will sell you the blocks.  They fit directly into the cutter, are keyed in, and will make the process much more exact since you can have the low and high end set and locked down at the same time.

Just ask Fletcher for a truing kit for the 2100/2200 family.

Paul Caldwell
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