Oh look, another person doing the which camera thing...

[SZRitter]

So, I have been shooting a Yashicamat EM and am tired of a few of it's "quirks". So the Yashica's problems are three:

1. It likes to jam will winding about once a roll, this causes a huge gap between a couple of shots
2. It doesn't seem to be loading the film properly, seems to cut the first image or second image in half, and leaves a lot of room at the tail
3. The built-in light meter doesn't work, meaning I have to carry a second meter (do have an older Selenium meter that seems accurate, just marked with weird shutter speeds, causing me to do math to figure out the more conventional shutter speeds).

What I would like:
1. Easily hand held
2. No moving mirror (ala SLR), so kind of leaves TLR and RF, unless there is one I missed
3. 6x6 or larger preferred
4. Cable release compatible w/ bulb setting
5. Sharp lens
6. f3.5 or faster, f2.8 is preferred (use mostly 100 and 160 speed films)
7. Fixed or interchangeable lenses, no problem with either
8. Built in light meter, doesn't need to set exposure, just give me an idea what I need to be at
9. Less than $1,000USD
10. The more mechanical the better, I love the fact the Yashica doesn't need batteries.
11. If possible, some kind of focus confirmation, like a split prism or coupled RF

Now, I know that is a long list, and I am willing to make concessions on some of those if need be (such as 11, 8 and 3).

This is used as a walk around camera and travel camera, so size being as small as possible is always a plus. This is for personal stuff, and I have digital gear in addition, so if the camera has quirks, I have no problem working around them. As for focal length, as long as the lens is sharp and decent  wide open, I am good in the slightly wide to normal range.

So far I have been thinking a fixed lens Fuji RF, maybe a 6x9.

[TMARK]

Rollei TLR, 3.5F. 

If you had another $1000 Mamiya 7, but teh lenses are F4, but you can hand hold down to 1/8th, which makes up for the slow lenses.

[SZRitter]

Rollei is high on the list.

I just watched a video on YouTube that pointed out something I didn't know about loading the film. So that might help take care of number two on my list. Having never shot MF, no one told me there was a mark on the paper back that I should wind the film out to...

[amsp]

I recently found a Rolleiflex 3.5F that needed some TLC in an antique store, I had it serviced and it's now working perfectly. It's a beautiful camera and the lens is stellar, they have that feel of quality about them that is rare to find today. I'd still recommend you use a good hand held meter though.

[SZRitter]

I recently found a Rolleiflex 3.5F that needed some TLC in an antique store, I had it serviced and it's now working perfectly. It's a beautiful camera and the lens is stellar, they have that feel of quality about them that is rare to find today. I'd still recommend you use a good hand held meter though.

My good meter is a Sekonic 558R. Great meter, can't figure out why they discontinued it....

Been debating the small Sekonic or Gossen meters. They aren't all that expensive. Just means I have to carry that second tool. But if they are small enough, it isn't an issue.

I do need to add, I don't have easy access to any photo stores, so I lose the ability to just go look at gear other than on a store's site.

[TMARK]

I have a 558 and 358, great meters.  The 558 is tops. 

I also have a Gossen Luna Pro.  Cheap, small as a watch, comes with a neopren bag with a neck strap.  Its digital and reads out in EVs, and you turn the dial (one handed) for the shutter aperture.  Simple and easy.

My good meter is a Sekonic 558R. Great meter, can't figure out why they discontinued it....

Been debating the small Sekonic or Gossen meters. They aren't all that expensive. Just means I have to carry that second tool. But if they are small enough, it isn't an issue.

I do need to add, I don't have easy access to any photo stores, so I lose the ability to just go look at gear other than on a store's site.

[HarperPhotos]

Hello,

I have owned a Yashica Mat 124G and a Rollieflex with a Carl Zeiss lens and I preferred the Yashica as it had better contrast and was a sharper lens.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yashica-Mat-124G-TLR-Twin-Lens-Reflex-with-Case-in-AMAZING-CONDITIONS-/251368882372?pt=Film_Cameras&hash=item3a86c0c0c4

Cheers

Simon

[HarperPhotos]

Hello,

You could always try this camera.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-BONZART-AMPEL-Digital-TLR-Twin-Lens-Macro-wide-lense-set-magnetic-mount-/171162581390?pt=Digital_Cameras&hash=item27da15b98e

Cheers

Simon

[amsp]

Hello,

You could always try this camera.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-BONZART-AMPEL-Digital-TLR-Twin-Lens-Macro-wide-lense-set-magnetic-mount-/171162581390?pt=Digital_Cameras&hash=item27da15b98e

Cheers

Simon

Go home Simon, you're drunk.

[sully75]

Mamiya c330 is a wonderful camera.  80mm black lens is as good as it gets.  Technologically advanced from the rollieflex.

[KevinA]

Mamiya c330 is a wonderful camera.  80mm black lens is as good as it gets.  Technologically advanced from the rollieflex.

Advanced if you like big clumsy cameras. If you want the "extra" the Mamiya does you would be better off with Hassy or Bronica or Pentax 67.
Just my opinion of course.:-)

Kevin.

[petermfiore]

Ah the Pentax 67, Hell of a mirror slap the way I remember it.

Peter

[ondebanks]

What I would like:

Mamiya Universal or Super23 with a 100/2.8 lens...let's work through your list:

1. Easily hand held  - yes, it's a bit heavy but there are grips and the form factor is not boxy. Zero vibration, handles slow handheld speeds very well.
2. No moving mirror (ala SLR), so kind of leaves TLR and RF, unless there is one I missed - yes, it's a RF
3. 6x6 or larger preferred   - yes, there are backs for 6x7, 6x9, switchable 645/6x6/6x9, and [on the Universal only] full-frame Polaroid packfilms
4. Cable release compatible w/ bulb setting  - yes
5. Sharp lens  - yes, at least half of the lens range, especially the 100/2.8 and the 50mm and 75mm non-retrofocus wideangles, are very sharp
6. f3.5 or faster, f2.8 is preferred (use mostly 100 and 160 speed films)  - yes, there's an f2.8 100mm standard lens, and f3.5 90mm and 100mm standard lenses. Longer and shorter lenses are slowish however.
7. Fixed or interchangeable lenses, no problem with either   - yes, interchangeble
8. Built in light meter, doesn't need to set exposure, just give me an idea what I need to be at   - none!...but everyone's telling you to use a handheld meter anyway
9. Less than $1,000USD - much less
10. The more mechanical the better, I love the fact the Yashica doesn't need batteries.  - absolutely 100% mechanical.
11. If possible, some kind of focus confirmation, like a split prism or coupled RF - coupled RF with a very wide baseline. Also several direct and reflex ground-glass viewing options on the focal plane, view-camera style

Now, I know that is a long list, and I am willing to make concessions on some of those if need be (such as 11, 8 and 3). - 8 is the only one in this case

This is used as a walk around camera and travel camera, so size being as small as possible is always a plus. - not really small in use, but breaks down small and flat for transport as it is completely modular

This is for personal stuff, and I have digital gear in addition, so if the camera has quirks, I have no problem working around them. As for focal length, as long as the lens is sharp and decent  wide open, I am good in the slightly wide to normal range. - yes, the 100/2.8 fills those requirements. It's equivalent to a 43mm "wide normal" lens on a 35mm camera

So far I have been thinking a fixed lens Fuji RF, maybe a 6x9. - that would be smaller, but the Fuji lens is slower and nothing (lenses, backs, formats, ground-glass and reflex finders, grips) is interchangeable


Hope that helps.

Ray

[ErikKaffehr]

Hi,

And shutter vibrations. I always used MLU so mirror was not a problem. A good carbon fibre tripod with a good head helped a lot!

Best regards
Erik

Ah the Pentax 67, Hell of a mirror slap the way I remember it.

Peter

[SZRitter]

Mamiya Universal or Super23 with a 100/2.8 lens...let's work through your list:

1. Easily hand held  - yes, it's a bit heavy but there are grips and the form factor is not boxy. Zero vibration, handles slow handheld speeds very well.
2. No moving mirror (ala SLR), so kind of leaves TLR and RF, unless there is one I missed - yes, it's a RF
3. 6x6 or larger preferred   - yes, there are backs for 6x7, 6x9, switchable 645/6x6/6x9, and [on the Universal only] full-frame Polaroid packfilms
4. Cable release compatible w/ bulb setting  - yes
5. Sharp lens  - yes, at least half of the lens range, especially the 100/2.8 and the 50mm and 75mm non-retrofocus wideangles, are very sharp
6. f3.5 or faster, f2.8 is preferred (use mostly 100 and 160 speed films)  - yes, there's an f2.8 100mm standard lens, and f3.5 90mm and 100mm standard lenses. Longer and shorter lenses are slowish however.
7. Fixed or interchangeable lenses, no problem with either   - yes, interchangeble
8. Built in light meter, doesn't need to set exposure, just give me an idea what I need to be at   - none!...but everyone's telling you to use a handheld meter anyway
9. Less than $1,000USD - much less
10. The more mechanical the better, I love the fact the Yashica doesn't need batteries.  - absolutely 100% mechanical.
11. If possible, some kind of focus confirmation, like a split prism or coupled RF - coupled RF with a very wide baseline. Also several direct and reflex ground-glass viewing options on the focal plane, view-camera style

Now, I know that is a long list, and I am willing to make concessions on some of those if need be (such as 11, 8 and 3). - 8 is the only one in this case

This is used as a walk around camera and travel camera, so size being as small as possible is always a plus. - not really small in use, but breaks down small and flat for transport as it is completely modular

This is for personal stuff, and I have digital gear in addition, so if the camera has quirks, I have no problem working around them. As for focal length, as long as the lens is sharp and decent  wide open, I am good in the slightly wide to normal range. - yes, the 100/2.8 fills those requirements. It's equivalent to a 43mm "wide normal" lens on a 35mm camera

So far I have been thinking a fixed lens Fuji RF, maybe a 6x9. - that would be smaller, but the Fuji lens is slower and nothing (lenses, backs, formats, ground-glass and reflex finders, grips) is interchangeable


Hope that helps.

Ray

I have never heard of these cameras. I'll have to go take a look.

Another suggestion that was made earlier was the C330, also a good contender.

And yes, I know, I should get a good, reliable, SMALL external meter, just one more thing I have to remember to carry.

Thank you everyone!

[Rob C]

Mamiya c330 is a wonderful camera.  80mm black lens is as good as it gets.  Technologically advanced from the rollieflex.

You are pulling my chain. I had both.

The Rollei went when the Hassy 500C arrived, and the Mamiya went when I could afford a 150mm lens for the Hasselblad.

On the positive side for Mamiya, the 180mm was a better focal length for my head shots than the 150mm Sonnar, but the 180mm Sonnar didn't exist at the time.

Using that Mamiya, with a red marker sliding up and down the screen to 'indicate' where the actual top of the shot lay was a nonsense. It made one lose equilibrium of both mind and subject positioning. Madness.

The only advanced thing about it was accepting that a fixed lens isn't the best bet. Mamiya's solution was something the village blacksmith would produce in-between shoeing horses. Rollei's solution, fixed 135mm amd 55mm setups was far superior, and a beautiful example of engineering and manufacturing. World's apart.

Rob C

[EricWHiss]

Rob,
Nice to read that feedback.      
And I might add the Rolleiflex TLR's are all still made and available new - normal FX, wide FW, and Tele FT and the new close focus version the FX-N.   New ones are very similar - but with the addition of electronic exposure meter and flash shoe with TTL capability.   

You are pulling my chain. I had both.

The Rollei went when the Hassy 500C arrived, and the Mamiya went when I could afford a 150mm lens for the Hasselblad.

On the positive side for Mamiya, the 180mm was a better focal length for my head shots than the 150mm Sonnar, but the 180mm Sonnar didn't exist at the time.

Using that Mamiya, with a red marker sliding up and down the screen to 'indicate' where the actual top of the shot lay was a nonsense. It made one lose equilibrium of both mind and subject positioning. Madness.

The only advanced thing about it was accepting that a fixed lens isn't the best bet. Mamiya's solution was something the village blacksmith would produce in-between shoeing horses. Rollei's solution, fixed 135mm amd 55mm setups was far superior, and a beautiful example of engineering and manufacturing. World's apart.

Rob C