Bagan is The Tourist Place in Burma, total freedom of movement, even if some temples are closed for repair or safety reasons (unlike the first time I was there in -84). Rent a bike for a day for a few $ if you want to get sweaty, or a horse cart for $15 or something for a day.
Last year it was easy to move around, it is not a the police state it used to be. We even got to some closed areas with a permission from the president's office, no westerners had been there since before WW2. There 2 policemen followed us on scooters, but no hassles.