For the original poster, the Scene Calibration tool should definitely get rid of that purple color cast. It's from the lens, not the shutter.
Here's my process, using an H3DII-39 back on an Arca Swiss 69 FC. Note: I believe Hasselblad changed a few things in the back between the H3D and H3DII, so settings / experience / process might differ slightly. And of course the CFV's settings and menu might differ. But hopefully the process is similar. It's actually simpler than it sounds.
- Compose and focus using ground glass if shooting to a card, or choose to compose and focus later if shooting tethered.
- Mount the back on the camera.
- Power up the back (by connecting via Firewire to an external battery or to a computer) before
opening Phocus. On the back's menu, go to Settings > Camera > Body: FlashSync, Exposure Time: <1/8 sec.
- Open Phocus (or shoot to a card, if you don't want to shoot tethered).
- Connect sync port on lens to "In" port on back. Connect standard cable release to lens.
- Compose and focus using live view if shooting tethered. Include any camera movements (shift, rise, etc.)
- Shoot a few shots to finalize exposure and composition. At this point, you can choose to capture your scene-calibration shot before or after capturing your image. I typically capture the scene-calibration shot beforehand. All camera movements (and a center filter, if you have one) should be in place before shooting the scene-calibration shot.
- For the scene-calibration shot, here's a link to a demonstration on Hasselblad TV:http://htv.hasselblad.com/video/scene-calibration-tool
And here's the Phocus user manual:http://www.hasselblad.se/media/1901174/uk_phocus_manual_v6.pdf
- you'll need a frosted, translucent white plastic card to place in front of the lens. (Capture Integration sells a set of two (different sizes) for $20. It's a great little set.) You hold the plastic piece over the lens and shoot your same exposure, same f-stop. If you're shooting tethered, you can create the scene calibration now. If you're shooting to a card, you can create it later. Either way, in Phocus, under Adjust, go to the scene-calibration tool and click the Create button. Name the shot (I usually include the focal length, movements applied and shoot name. For example: 35_0_5down_BaerHome.) At this point you may have to place a check mark in the tool's header to make it active. Check both boxes within the tool: Remove cast and Equalize intensity. You should see any vignetting and color casts in your white capture disappear. If you shoot your actual image next, those adjustments should be applied to the image automatically. If you shot your image beforehand, copy those adjustments to the image (or, when viewing the image, select the scene calibration you just made from the scene-calibration tool's dropdown menu). You'll see any vignetting and color casts disappear. It works very well.
Hope that helps. Let me know if something's unclear.