When I tried to work with the intervoltmeter on the Nikon's I found it can't function past 30" of a sec. You also can't use the interval time and intervoltmeter at the same time. For time-lapse you will be shooting in a method like I use for stacking night work. For this you need both a set interval, (1) and may need a time longer than 30 seconds. You will need the MC-36 remote or one of the knock offs. The MC-36 will control your shutter speed and interval which is necessary.
If you think you get get the series done without longer exposures than 30 seconds, you might get it to work with the built in timer on the D4 as Bob mentioned.
Flicker will the real issue and HDR will make this even a bigger issue. When I started night stacking I got interested in time-lapse shooting and watch some videos on it. For the time it takes both to shot and then process I decided not to try it. There are some software tools out there that can help reduce the flicker issues once you have put the video together. Here is link to one of the tools: http://www.granitebaysoftware.com/
The other solution to help reduce iris flicker is use a manual lens with a aperture ring as this will keep the camera from creating the slight variations since the ring is fixed.
In night photography that I do I will sometimes see flicker results, but since I am blending back to only one frame the stacking tends to eliminate it.
Hope you post your results.