You're not telling us what use you plan to put it to within the landscape context.
In general, the Minolta F has a 1 degree spot area, which is good, but operates in shutter priority only, which is bad. The handheld spot meter I have (called a Digispot) does the same thing. Let's say I meter one thing and get a reading of 1/60 at f/8; then I shift to meter another thing. I'll get a reading of perhaps 1/60th at f/16.4, but I rarely want to change aperture, so I have to spin the dial to get to f/8, and even then it's going to be f/8.4.
In-camera spot meters generally cover a percentage of the frame -- not a fixed degree area -- and somewhere in the vicinity of 2 or 3 percent is typical. This is cruder than a 1 degree spot if you're shooting wide or normal, but can actually be more precise with a telephoto lens. So if you're already carrying a telephoto lens of at least 150mm equiv, you could slip it on the EM-5 to meter with whenever the light changes.
Bear in mind that if you're main purpose is to set the exposure for the scene you're shooting, many a veteran large format film photograher carries a little digital camera just to determine exposure, transfering shutter and aperture to the view camera. These guys have handheld spot meters, know how to use them, but presumably find chimping on the back LCD a very reassuring way of avoiding human error. When using a mirrorless camera, what you see in finder on LCD is the real time exposure output, so you don't even have to chimp. But of course there can be issues interpreting either the blown highlights or shadow extremes that may have you thinking spot meter. And/or you may want to meter both the darkest and brightest part of the scene to get a total scene DR number to help with placement. The last few generations of Sekonic L meters do all kinds of nifty calculations for you based on metering the brightest and darkest parts of a scene. Never owned one, but reviews are on this site.