Not sure there's much I can suggest for shooting straight into the wind/spray, other than to check websites that forecast wind speed prior to departure. For me, I know a light rain/wind can be handled. So if I see a forecast such as "cloudy with a chance of showers and low to moderate wind" I'll get quite excited and head out. Sunny conditions are boring, I'd rather chance shooting a thunderstorm and come away with nothing, then head out into yet another empty sky.
Re wind/rain, here's what I do:
1. Scout the area for the most sheltered spot that still yields a great composition. Rocky coastal areas often have large boulders you can hide behind. If there's a peninsula, try the other side of it, it might be wind free.
2. Increase tripod stability by shooting lower to the ground, with a heavy tripod. If you do weight your tripod with something like your pack hanging off the centre pole, make sure it isn't moving in the wind. Even the slightest movement transfers vibrations. Put your hand on the tripod and check if you can feel vibrations. If there is anything truly stable around like a large boulder, consider jamming two of your tripod legs up against it and raising the height of the third leg to apply tension, until the set up is effectively wedged in solid.
3. Put up a large golf umbrella to shelther your camera and tripod from wind/rain. If the wind is high you'll need both hands and maybe your whole body weight to control it. This way you can shoot through light rain and wind, blocking both entirely with the umbrella, provided the wind isn't coming directly towards you. (You still need to be aware of ambient moisture).
4. After composing, use LiveView zoomed to 100% and check again for vibrations. They should be obvious at that magnification. If the image is jumping, reset the umbrella closer, or wait for a lull.
5. Shoot multiple bracketed shots using shutter speeds that are either super fast (faster than the vibrations), or very slow. I prefer slow myself. Try for 30 seconds. You'll find that tiny, infrequent vibrations have no affect on the overall long exposure. Of course your water will be very blurred as will any trees caught by the wind, but you did say rocky coastland, and rocks don't move.
6. I'll compose, set exposure, focus etc then clean the lens and stick my beanie over both camera and lens while waiting for the light. When the moment arrives, whip the beanie off, trip the shutter remotely and cover both again. Clean and repeat as required.
Here's one from a few days ago, shot through wind so high it required, at times, crawling on hands and knees to advance forward. It's 87 megapixels, tack sharp, even the shrubbery, which was protected by the lee of the hill.http://www.chockstonephotos.com/Australian-Print.asp?ID=521&Zoom=TRUE