Mount Photo on wood

[lighthunter]

Hi
I tryied to mount a2 photo on 60x40 8mm wood using wood white glue
every thing looks ok but after 2 days some bubles appears
how to avoid them ?

[Johnny_Boy]

What kind of paper was the photo printed on? I can think of two issues. 1 no even coverage of glue. 2 air bubble caught between the wood and paper.

Did you unroll the photo from on edge to the other in a very specific manner? If I do manually I unroll it from a rolled tube tightly, otherwise I use a manual cold press roller.

[lighthunter]

satin RC Paper 260g
bubles appers after 2 days

[Johnny_Boy]

My other guess is that you have dust particles between the wood and the RC paper. When the paper is wet, it will look flat, but once it is dried, parts that are not completely attached will lift. RC papers takes a while to dry with the wood (PVA) glue, since they are plastic and prevents things from drying. So showing up after 2 days might not be so weird.

What kind of wood are you using? It could be the wood fiber lifting from the board. Are these pressed hardened particle boards?

[mstevensphoto]

are you experiencing a humidity change? I've seen this with humidity swings for prints that weren't evenly adhered.

[slevane]

I do not have the awesome printing skills of this group but I know wood. Assuming the wood is clean I would guess you may have a moisture absorption into the grain issue. The wood underneath the photo is absorbing the moisture from the glue or the glue itself into the wood. It is also possible you have a problem with raising the grain of the wood and popping the paper off the wood. Starting with raising the grain try lightly wetting the wood and allowing it to dry then sanding the wood before gluing the picture. For the absorption issue you have two choices seal the wood with sanding sealer or take some glue dilute it with water brush it on in a thin coat, wipe it off , then apply the glue full strength and glue the image down. Just as a heads up watch out for knots or sap pockets in the wood, clean out any sap and wipe the knots with solvent then scuff with coarse sand paper.

Scott

[framah]

One other thing to do here is to weight it down until it is dry.
The idea of sealing the wood is a good idea, also.

 Using white glue wouldn't be my first or second choice, either.

[tmphoto]

Check these posts, good reading:

https://www.google.com/#q=Miracle+Muck+masonite+site:luminous-landscape.com&hl=en&pwst=1&prmd=imvns&ei=qkiUT7r7HqfXiQK6prn8Dw&start=10&sa=N&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=658b538c23bb4e18

[lighthunter]

I use MDF wood
i think it is not even glue coverage

[lfeagan]

I do quite a bit of wood work, including large glue-ups of flat surfaces.

1) To achieve very thin but even glue coverage, use a squeegee. It can also be done with a wide foam brush, but to get a razer thin layer a squeegee is quite easy.
2) Use a roller, such as the types used when applying veneer or edge banding. Work the roller radially out starting at the center. This will help eliminate bubbles and ripples.
3) Some additional advice that may come in handy. Applying any type of paint, glue, stain to only one side of a surface can introduce cupping of the workpiece due to uneven moisture absorption. The general rule is that you should always do the same thing to both sides of a workpiece.
4) You will need to place the board you are gluing to between at least 2x3/4" boards on bottom and 2x3/4" boards on top. You will need to clamp these boards down using cauls so that there is sufficient pressure in the middle. There are two ways to make clamping cauls. The first is to use a hand plane on the boards that are the cauls. Another method is to place thin strips of increasing height on the boards as you get closer to the center. Generally for a 24" board around 5 strips is sufficient. The outer strip might be 1/16" thick, the next two 1/8", and the inner-most 3/16".

Basically, read up on how to apply thin veneer, which is typically 1/42" thick (which is 0.6mm). Tommy Mac host of PBS's Rough Cut likely has an episode or two where he does this.

Hope this helps.

[DancePhotographer]

I work with wood, metal and photography and have worked with mounting images on a number of different substances.  The problem you are having can be fixed by sizing the paper.  My process is to print an image on matt paper and leave very large boarders around it.   I then put a coat of sizing - usually an acrylic medium but you can use PVA glue - on the back.   After that dries I do the same on the front with acrylic medium.   You also should put a thin coat of PVA glue on the surface of the wood.  I use a cheap, throwaway foam roller to get a nice think coat.   Finally after everything has dried I cut the image to size and get rid of the boarders and dry fit it to the wood.  Then a coat of PVA glue or acrylic medium on the wood and fit your image over it checking the corners for alignment.  A piece of wax paper between that and another piece of wood and then weight it for about a half hour and voila.

I know it is years later since the initial posting, but I am hoping this helps someone else.

Mark
www.markandrewimages.com

[disneytoy]

Moisture is the issue. A professional mounting lamination place. takes the print and the substrate "MDF" separately and puts them in their large heat press. How long I'm not sure. You need very dry paper and dry wood.

There is a reason pros use dry mount tissue. See id that works for you. I've given up mounting anything with water based glues.