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Author Topic: Made my own "Sekonic Exposure Target II", I think....  (Read 9931 times)

ComputerDork

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Made my own "Sekonic Exposure Target II", I think....
« on: April 06, 2012, 02:43:48 am »

I guess this is closer to color management than anything else since it involves a bunch of Lab/XYZ values, spectrophotometry, printing, etc so...

I was reading about the crazy L-758 series light meters from Sekonic and how the "Data Transfer Software" creates sensor exposure range profiles using their "Exposure Profile Target II". I'd been wanting to test my camera's exposure range at various ISO settings for quite some time and had never gotten around to it, but after seeing that this software was available for free and it would plot a graph and give you some meter correction values, I decided I wanted to mess with it (especially before spending $100+ on the exposure target when I don't have or really plan to buy the super fancy light meter).

For some reason, the "test drive" image files that Sekonic has linked on their download page seem to be "404". But I was determined to try this thing out, so I attempted to create my own replica of their target on my Epson R3000 and I think I mostly succeeded.

So what I did was assume that they weren't lying and that "18%" really does mean Y=0.18 for the middle gray patch. On one side of the patch are 12 patches that are each -1/6EV reflectivity from the previous patch, and 12 on the other side that progress in +1/6EV increments. (So the patches cover a whole -2EV to +2EV range with 0EV being the "18%".)

I took the basic layout of the target that the DTS software would need to work and created one shape layer for each patch in Photoshop. I then calculated out all the Y values, then L values in a spreadsheet like this:

Y
4.5 (-2EV)
5.05107921739218
5.66964472452693
6.36396103067893
7.1433047338569
8.01808846326306
9
10.1021584347844
11.3392894490539
12.7279220613579
14.2866094677138
16.0361769265261
18 (middle)
20.2043168695687
22.6785788981077
25.4558441227157
28.5732189354276
32.0723538530522
36
40.4086337391374
45.3571577962154
50.9116882454314
57.1464378708552
64.1447077061044
72 (+2EV)

L
25.2599623320847 (-2EV)
26.8797965193454
28.5632241430978
30.3127418324394
32.1309442321935
34.0205278509313
35.9842950600631
38.0251582499322
40.1461441490724
42.3503983130373
44.6411897894569
47.0219159662411
49.4961076101196 (middle)
52.0674341029912
54.7397088838482
57.5168951043459
60.4031115064068
63.4026385305729
66.5199246641695
69.7595930386908
73.1264482861956
76.6254836648788
80.2618884643871
84.0410557018626
87.9685901201262 (+2EV)

I created a Lab color mode L=0-100 gray wedge and printed it on my custom-profiled printer in absolute colorimetric mode to see if my printer would handle the +/-2EV extremes, and was somewhat surprised to see that it actually would handle these easily. (Seems like the darkest black it will do with matte paper anyway is something like L=17 or maybe L=15 at best, and all the paper I have seems to be L=90 at worst and L=95 at best.)

So I entered all the Lab L values that I calculated, printed in absolute colorimetric mode with my custom ICC profile, and actually came up with something decent when I measured the patches with my ColorMunki. (I didn't save the initial readings, but off the cuff they seemed to be pretty close.)

I wanted to see what I could do to ensure the best accuracy that I could get with the printer, paper and ink that I have. Unfortunately it seems that Photoshop won't accept fractional values for L even in 16 bit mode, so I said to heck with Lab color, switched to sRGB (where I can at least get 0-255 vs 0-100 in PS Lab mode), calculated out the sRGB values as follows (after making my best guess rounding decision for the ones halfway between one integer and another):

sRGB
60 (-2EV)
64
67
71
76
80
85
89
95
100
106
111 (middle)
118
124
131
138
146
153
162
170
179
189
199
210
221 (+2EV)

And entered all of those for the patch colors in photoshop.

Just to see if I could get things a little more accurate, I saved the file as a JPEG and told the ColorMunki profiling software to "refine printer profile" which uses the colors in an image to take an existing profile and increase the accuracy for just those colors. So I printed out the CM target, scanned that in, created another ICC profile just for this, and used that to print "version 2" of my chart. (Again, with Absolute Colorimetric in Photoshop.)

This time I used Argyl CMS 'spotread' on each patch and actually saved the readings to a file. Here is the relative deviation from my calculated Y and L values after I converted to sRGB numbers and printed:

Y Err
1.1%
0.7%
1.1%
-2.3%
1.6%
1.9%
2.0%
0.6%
4.3%
5.2%
6.2%
2.4%
3.2%
1.0%
0.6%
1.0%
3.9%
3.3%
3.3%
1.8%
2.2%
2.2%
1.2%
2.1%
0.8%
Average = 2.1% error in Y value

L* Error
0.6%
0.4%
0.6%
-1.2%
0.8%
0.9%
0.9%
0.3%
2.0%
2.4%
2.7%
1.1%
1.4%
0.5%
0.3%
0.4%
1.6%
1.4%
1.3%
0.7%
0.9%
0.9%
0.5%
0.8%
0.3%
Average = 0.9% error in L value

Not too bad, and if I really wanted to mess with it I could probably improve some of the worst ones by tweaking the sRGB values. (The 2% off cases are probably largely from me manually rounding the wrong way or something.)


I also calculated the simple euclidean distance between a,b=0,0 and the measured a,b values to get a sense of the deviation from color neutral. (Not really a proper DeltaE especially since L is ignored, but seems reasonable for getting a general idea.)

ab Err
0.72
0.43
0.62
0.64
0.46
0.76
0.73
0.88
0.67
1.16
0.75
1.20
1.07
0.84
0.70
0.95
0.48
0.31
0.42
0.96
0.83
0.29
0.22
0.11
0.39
Average=0.66

I was expecting much worse but was happy to see accuracy even this good. Of course the problem is that all of these error values are based on D50 and I don't know for sure what they'd be under other light.

I also took some spectral reflectance measurements and graphed them, and not surprisingly Epson matte paper + ink jet printer ink still doesn't exactly make a perfectly flat spectral reflectance distribution, so I don't think the people who make white balance cards are going to be out of business any time soon, but still the plots didn't really look that bad to my naive judgement anyway. The main thing that needs to be right here is the total reflectance though, not the exact chromaticity (though I realize that improper hue would at some point throw off the overall sensor gray recoding).

Anyway, after shooting the appropriate photos of the replica target and running them through the software it would appear that (comparing to sample profile graphs) I was at least able to conduct a reasonable "test drive" of the software. In the process I managed to find out that I really could get almost exact neutral absolute "color" values to print reasonably well to my printer (at least the chromatically neutral ones between L=17 and L=95). And I learned some stuff about photometry and exposure values in the process. If not for collateral learning I probably wouldn't have gone through this much trouble. (By now everyone probably thinks I'm crazy if my only purpose was to replicate the target.)

As far as accuracy goes, the only part I'm not really sure of is whether the middle gray patch on the real target is really Y=0.18 or something else. I found that the gray card side of my Lastolite EzyBalance was reading as L=40 or something with the ColorMunki, for example. To make things more confusing, incident light meters are supposed to be calibrated to read for 12.[something]% rather than 18% gray. So I'm not sure what's going on with middle gray.

Anyway, there's my science project for the week. After playing with this I'll probably buy the real target at some point (especially if I ever buy the fancy insane programmable light meter).
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Ernst Dinkla

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Re: Made my own "Sekonic Exposure Target II", I think....
« Reply #1 on: April 06, 2012, 03:57:13 am »

I also took some spectral reflectance measurements and graphed them, and not surprisingly Epson matte paper + ink jet printer ink still doesn't exactly make a perfectly flat spectral reflectance distribution, so I don't think the people who make white balance cards are going to be out of business any time soon, but still the plots didn't really look that bad to my naive judgement anyway. The main thing that needs to be right here is the total reflectance though, not the exact chromaticity (though I realize that improper hue would at some point throw off the overall sensor gray recoding).

There are papers with a better high white reflectance and a better spectral distribution that will also keep that quality longer in time.


Met vriendelijke groet, Ernst

340+ paper white spectral plots:
http://www.pigment-print.com/spectralplots/spectrumviz_1.htm
update april 2012: Harman by Hahnemühle, Innova IFA45 and more
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RFPhotography

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Re: Made my own "Sekonic Exposure Target II", I think....
« Reply #2 on: April 06, 2012, 07:38:04 am »

Not sure how good their software is.  Watched a video of the process to create a camera profile.  Using a Canon 5D they came up with a dynamic range of 5.9 stops which is quite low for that camera. 
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ComputerDork

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Re: Made my own "Sekonic Exposure Target II", I think....
« Reply #3 on: April 08, 2012, 10:09:23 pm »

340+ paper white spectral plots:
http://www.pigment-print.com/spectralplots/spectrumviz_1.htm
update april 2012: Harman by Hahnemühle, Innova IFA45 and more

That's great! Thanks! I'll certainly take a look at that.

As for whether the software actually works:

What it tells you the "dynamic range" is will depend on what thresholds you set for dynamic range. (Not sure if the video covered that so I'll just redscribe it here. It took me a while to understand this part) Essentially the software takes -3EV, +0EV, +3EV shots and does a sort of HDR type thing on them, assigning output tone values from 0-255 and, for each tone, the +/- EV of the patch with that tone. (The -2EV patch from the -3EV shot is probably considered the -5EV patch, and I'd bet that it's just extrapolating beyond -5EV.) So you get 118 or so around EV0, maybe 50 at -2EV, etc.

The software is configured by default to consider whatever it determines for level 20 as the low end EV for "dynamic range", and whatever it finds for 245 as the high end EV. So what you actually get for "dynamic range" and "clipping range" is going to depend on these settings. Defaults are:

Quote
The Middle T one, dynamic range (-), clipping point (-), clipping point (+) and dynamic range (+) settings will differ depending on how you think about image reproduction.  At Sekonic, we use the following values as our default standard values. The numbers in parentheses indicate the standard range.
Middle T one    118 (113~123)
Dynamic Range (-)  20 (15~25)
Clipping Point (-)    35 (30~40)
Clipping Point  (+)  230 (225~235)
Dynamic Range (+)  245 (240~250)

So basically what this means is that they just assume that at 20, for example, the tone response plot for your sensor takes a bend toward a very gradual slope that would keep you from getting any real detail (anything but highly posterized "detail" such as 10-20 covering the range of 1EV or more).

It does not do anything intelligent like "gee, at level 20 the plot goes from something like a line with a steep slope to something close to a line with a very gradual slope so therefore this must be a good point to consider the -EV side of the dynamic range". It just assumes "20" which may not in fact be the point in the curve where it significantly changes slope.

I don't know if they didn't try or if they just couldn't come up with any objective thresholds for the amount the curve has to change to consider it "no detail" below that point.

Essentially what you have to do is just look at the curve yourself, and tell it your opinion on where it becomes so gradual that anything below/above is not useful. (You can slide marker lines around the graph to set these or type the values in.) Some perfect camera out there might have a perfectly linear response from 0 to 255 for all I know, so in that case their defaults would obviously be bad assumptions.)

So it basically just gives you a (hopefully accurate) curve and no objective definition of dynamic range or clipping range based on some statistical analysis of the curve.

If they really want to improve the software here they should put some continuous gradient or pattern or something on the target somewhere, then show you a zoomed in area of detail on that to give you an better idea of how bad the posterization gets at what level. A sample of the actual effect on the image detail in that range would be more useful than just a line on a graph. Right now if you want to do this you'd have to load the images into Photoshop or something and try to figure out the best threshold based on what seems acceptable to you as you mess with the levels controls to expand just the extreme light/dark areas to the full output range. (Like use levels to do 0-30 -> 0-255 and look at posterization.)

Anyway, the short answer is that the 5D might have such close-to-linear response that the +/- thresholds should be expanded to 10-250 or something instead of 20-245.

Obviously if you're a Canon marketing person then you're going to have the convenient opinion that the detail is just fine in the 2-254 range or whatever you can get away with and make your dynamic range claims based on that. That is, unless there's some response slope standard for these ranges that I don't know about.

So I guess whether it works depends on whether "works" means doing something other than default level thresholds for these ranges.

In any case, the only thing that these range numbers affect is where the fancy light meter will put some little marker dots on the LCD display at a given ISO setting. It may suggest something based on these default numbers, but you can just tell it to display whatever you want.

The part that it should be able to do properly by itself, which is hopefully accurate, is determine the mid tone and, based on what you told it your light meter said for mid tone, tell you how inaccurate your light meter is and what EV compensation to set in it to "fix" the error. So if my light meter says 1/60 f/11 and the software finds that the middle gray patch is -1EV from what it should be, then I know I need to tell my light meter "+1EV" to calibrate it. Of course you need their fancy light meter because it lets you set a different value for every single ISO setting, but I found that on my camera with my light meter it didn't really need any EV compensation at any ISO setting.

Of course it isn't really THAT hard to do this by just bracketing a bunch of shots of a 50% gray card, looking at all of them in an image editor, picking the one with the gray values closest to 118 (sRGB), taking the exposire settings from that, comparing them to what your light meter says, and calculating the EV difference yourself. The sekonic stuff just automates this process while only requiring 3 shots to do it at a given ISO.
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