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Author Topic: Comparison of UV blocking & non-blocking glazing on OBA & non-OBA papers (image)  (Read 2907 times)

AFairley

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A while ago I did a test to see how UV blocking glazing affects the brightness of OBA papers, specifically Epson Exhibition Fiber.  I compared Tru-Vue Museum Glass (blocks 99% of UV), Tru-Vue AR Reflection-Free  glass (blocks 78% of UV) and plain acrylic (presumably blocks 0%).  I included two OBA-free papers as controls, Epson Hot Press Natural, and Canson Rag Photographique.  I have to thank forum members Alan Goldhammer and John Ferriola of Shades of Paper for very kindly sending me samples of the Canson and Hot Press.

I shot the setup in direct sun using an Olympus E-5 and 50mm macro, bracketing exposures by 1/3 stop, and selecting the best exposure to my eye.  I'm posting the out of camera JPEG below (it looks right on my calibrated Dell U2711, but YMMV).  I'm also providing a link to the DNG conversion from the Olympus ORF.  http://www.ahfairley.com/photos/glazing.dng

The glazing from top to bottom is Museum Glass, AR, and acrylic.  The EEF is the rightmost paper, I cannot remember the sequence of the Canson and Hot Press.

As I recall it, the color casts imparted by the two glass samples (orange/brown by Museum Glass, green by AR) was more pronounced than it appears in the image.  I did see a reduction in the brightness of the EFF that resulted from the UV blocking, but it was not really pronounced, as I recall, certainly not enough to be a deal-killer for me.

I should add, that since I took the time to do the test for my own purposes, I am just posting it here for others to do with what they, wish, I don't have any ax to grind.  I'm not a critical enough printer to worry about slightly crushed brights, and I ended up using the AR to frame because it's anti-reflective but cheaper than Museum Glass and fading/UV blocking is not an issue for me given the short display life my prints have before they go back into the dark of the storage boxes and I'm not trying to preserve them for posterity.  I'd probably be using window glass to frame if I didn't have reflections so much  :)



« Last Edit: February 28, 2012, 08:41:15 pm by AFairley »
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Ernst Dinkla

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In the article I gave a link for is the True-Vue AR Reflection Free measured on its UV blocking and it blocks 66% where the manufacturer gives 78%. It is qualified as bad in its UV blocking. If you check the spectral plot you will see it does not really cut at 400 NM. OBAs used in inkjet papers can still be activated in that case. The EFF is a good example, several papers from Hahnemühle and Harman absorb UV of a slightly lower wavelength and should loose their brightness more with that glass. The True Vue Museum Glass blocks 93% where the manufacturer claims 98-99%, even there the wavelengths that activate the EFF OBA are not totally blocked. Normal glass blocks about 34%. The gain of UV blocking compared to normal float glass is in the range between 300 and 400 NM, most what is below 300 NM is already blocked by normal glass. Not qualified in that test is the transmission above 400 NM which should ideally be 100% transmission. The best compromise between the two requirements is found in some perspex-plexiglass UV filtered qualities but even then the cut at 400 NM gives a slight yellow cast, part of the blue light is blocked too. So what you see in the loss of brightness is both some blue light filtered out and less UV activation on the OBAs. The OBA emitted blue-green is beyond 420 NM up to 500 NM and will not be blocked on its way out by good quality glasses. With other OBA papers the effect of the UV blocked glass on the paper white can be more pronounced than with EFF.

EFF showed a paper white shift due to degradation of the OBA in Aardenburg tests. That degradation can happen with UV light, visible light and gasses.


met vriendelijke groeten, Ernst
Shareware too:
330+ paper white spectral plots:
http://www.pigment-print.com/spectralplots/spectrumviz_1.htm
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MHMG

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If you understand how to interpret LAB numbers, then useful information on initial media white point color is reported in the media L*max, media a*, and media b* columns in the AaI&A database:

http://www.aardenburg-imaging.com/cgi-bin/mrk/_4899c2hvd19kb2NfbGlzdC80

Note: you can collapse the columns in this database list and reselect only those you want to see. You can also sort on ascending/descending by clicking once or more on the column label for any column you wish to sort on. And you can also filter the list to narrow the items to, for example, a specific paper of your choice.

Additionally there is a column labeled "UV ∆b* influence" This column reports the b* color shift that occurs in the media when the UV component of the spectrophotometer's illuminant is excluded during measurement.  Most people with normal color vision can visually "just notice" 1 unit of ∆b* shift, 3 is easy, 5 is very easy. Exhibition Fiber paper samples measure in the 5-6 range. OBA-free papers return values of 0 to 0.3 ∆b*.  HN photo rag measures about 1.1-1.9. It has low OBA content but is not OBA free. Thus, the more OBA, the larger this UV ∆b* influence value, and the more color shift you will notice when UV energy is blocked from the illumination falling on the print or when the OBA burns out over time. UVA exclusion can be accomplished with a glazing or it can simply be filtered out right at the light source itself. 

Now, as you've noticed the glazing can impart additional color due to color forming impurities in the glazing or other changes in transmission qualities that "reach" into the visible spectrum. UV blocking OP3 plexi, for example, cuts sharply at about 400 nanometers but still keeps preferentially absorbing at least somewhat into the blue region up to about 420.  Hence, some will see any print, even OBA free, as shifting more yellow under OP3 plexi, but it will shift even more yellow if OBAs are present in the media. Standard soda lime glass typically has trace iron content that causes it to look a little green. As Ernst noted in another thread about this, "water-white" glass can be specified that has lower trace levels of iron and so appears clearer than standard soda lime. It's easier to find in Europe, but Tru Vue does import it into the U.S. and then coats an anti-reflection layer (not a full UV block).  So, all in all, you are on the right track just to make a pragmatic judgement about what bothers you or not by just trying different glazings over the print. Best place to judge is probably in any white or very highlight areas of the print.  The most color-clear glazings are typically standard optical grade acrylic or the water white glass.

As for how much any of this OBA and UV blocking glazing interaction becomes an issue for you also depends on how critical the media white and highlight color accuracy is to you in your printmaking. And whether it's important to carry that media whitepoint on into subseqent display environments. If none of this mattered at all to anyone, there'd be no reason for manufacturers to add OBAs, but they've obviously learned that many people like the whole "brighter-than-white" appearance of high OBA-content papers. Yet the typical customer walking into a framing shop probably doesn't even know what OBAs are let alone if the artwork to be framed contains any. And not all framers understand the OBA issue, either. Thus, they may offer the customer "conservation framing" and not inform the customer that a bigger trade-off is going to occur in paper white color if the print has high OBA content.  When the framed print comes back, the overall presentation will be what is mostly noticed. Only a more color discerning printmaker or collector will take the time to pin down all these trades between UV content, OBAs, and choice of glazing with a more informed understanding of the issues.

my 2 cents,

cheers,
Mark
http://www.aardenburg-imaging.com

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John Nollendorfs

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Mark:
Quite frankly I don't understand why paper manufacturers continue to add "fragile" OBA brightners to their products. Sure, you get the blue white paper white, but is this what we print makers really want?  I  understand that in using recycled papers OBA's will likely get recycled also.

There must be other ways of getting a brighter paper white than adding OBA's. RC papers used to use Titanium white. I assume that inkjet RC papers continue to use that also. As for art papers, couldn't Titanium white be used also?

Quite frankly for my printing clients, I only use "natural  white" art papers, and explain to them why the paper is slightly warm in appearance. All have agreed with my reasoning, and most say they prefer the "warm" paper base.


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MHMG

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Mark:
Quite frankly I don't understand why paper manufacturers continue to add "fragile" OBA brightners to their products. Sure, you get the blue white paper white, but is this what we print makers really want?  I  understand that in using recycled papers OBA's will likely get recycled also.

Well, as one marketing rep for a big printer company said to me "What people say they want and what they buy are two different things". I think the majority of people, if part of a focus group, would opt for the "cooler" white as much or more than the "natural" or "warm" whites especially when it comes to color photographs and probably even if informed of the longevity shortcomings. The manufacturers have no doubt done such market studies, and hence OBA-containing media are a big part of the media manufacturers' offerings. That said, I'm also getting some feedback lately from industry sources that the Aardenburg lightfastness test results are beginning to cause some "recalibration" in some media product lines, ie. that some very high OBA papers are being replaced with ones that have more modest levels. OBA burnout gets a "free pass" in other light fade testing protocols, so it's only the AaI&A test results that have put any quantifiable results about OBA burnout on the table for the printmaking community to consider.

There must be other ways of getting a brighter paper white than adding OBA's. RC papers used to use Titanium white. I assume that inkjet RC papers continue to use that also. As for art papers, couldn't Titanium white be used also?

Yes, TiO2 is used, and RC inkjet papers are essentially coated on traditional RC base, but traditional RC photos and even many fiber based traditional darkroom papers also contain OBAs. One big difference however, is that OBAs embedded in traditional photographic gelatin layers are far better protected from oxidation than when embedded in microporous coatings. So, rate and magnitude of OBA burnout is dependent not only on amount but also on location within the various media coatings.  

Quite frankly for my printing clients, I only use "natural  white" art papers, and explain to them why the paper is slightly warm in appearance. All have agreed with my reasoning, and most say they prefer the "warm" paper base.

Yes, for my personal choices I mainly print on papers having initial media white b* value = 0 to 2 (measured at D50 illuminant condition). For some B&W I will go warmer, but never cooler. Besides, high fluorescence from OBAs in papers wreaks havoc with building decent ICC profiles as well, but that's another story.  HN photo rag is an excellent example of a paper containing OBA used with judicious restraint and only in the paper core not in the coatings. It has an initial b* value = 0, and in lightfastness testing this low-content OBA paper holds it's media whitepoint stability as well as some OBA-free papers which can sometimes show light bleaching effects that drive them a little whiter. Thus, I don't think OBAs are all bad, but people serious about accurate color appearance and color retention over time will be well advised to stay clear of the high-OBA content media.

cheers,
Mark



« Last Edit: February 29, 2012, 08:33:27 am by MHMG »
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Alan Goldhammer

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    • A Goldhammer Photography

 HN photo rag is an excellent example of a paper containing OBA used with judicious restraint and only in the paper core not in the coatings. It has an initial b* value = 0, and in lightfastness testing this low-content OBA paper holds it's media whitepoint stability as well as some OBA-free papers which can sometimes show light bleaching effects that drive them a little whiter. Thus, I don't think OBAs are all bad, but people serious about accurate color appearance and color retention over time will be well advised to stay clear of the high-OBA content media.

cheers,
Mark
And the cousin of HN Photorag, Photo Rag Ultra Smooth is currently being tested at Aardenburg and looks pretty good as well.  I've been printing on this paper for a long while with both B/W and color and quite like it.  Again, small amounts of OBA but does not exhibit the problems as some other papers with higher contents.
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MHMG

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And the cousin of HN Photorag, Photo Rag Ultra Smooth is currently being tested at Aardenburg and looks pretty good as well.  I've been printing on this paper for a long while with both B/W and color and quite like it.  Again, small amounts of OBA but does not exhibit the problems as some other papers with higher contents.

Right, and a simple way to find more even papers in the little or no OBA category is to sort the AaI&A database on the column called "Optical Brightener". Then look for "yes(low)" or "no" in that column.  I also recommend you collapse the list of columns and then add back into the list just the "paper/media" column plus the "optical brightener" column. This action will make it easier to read the media names while looking at the info in the optical brightener column.

Ernst Dinkla also provides another great resource on OBA content in paper. You will find it here:

http://www.pigment-print.com/spectralplots/spectrumviz_1.htm

cheers,
Mark
http://www.aardenburg-imaging.com
« Last Edit: February 29, 2012, 10:52:22 am by MHMG »
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