Mounting a Deckled Edge Print

[Mike Guilbault]

I was reading the thread about the deckled edges (and didn't want to hijack it) and wanted to find out how you typically mount these prints. It appears, in the ones I have seen, that the edges are not 'stuck down'.

[bill t.]

For the not too archivally squeamish, you can brush on a moderately thick coating of Miracle Muck or LaminAll on the back of the print.  Don't go all the way to edges, that's why you had all that stay-inside-the-lines training with coloring books.  Let it dry.  Then drymount it to a backing, those particular glues act like drymounting tissue at temps above about 170F or so.

Or you can tack on about 2 layers of a special drymount film called Fusion 4000 directly to the back of the print.  Fusion 4000 is a thin film of just the glue component of drymount tissue, minus the paper support.  You can fold it, lay it down in sloppy layers that are thicker in one place than another, etc, and will it work itself out nicely under the heat with no bumps.  BTW two layers works great for canvas.

Or lay a piece of regular drymount tissue over the back of the print.  With a magic marker trace out a shape that is a little smaller than the artwork.  Cut the drymount just inside the marker lines, if you have a swivel knife so much the better.  Then tack it to the back of the print and proceed to the press.

edit, or you can apply the glue and while it is wet very carefully push it down onto a substrate.  No press required.  If you didn't apply so much glue that it will ooze out you can cover the artwork with a cover sheet (silicone release paper is nice) and burnish it down with a roller or just your hand.  This is how we mount my wife's pastel drawings.  If you have a vacuum press use it but don't fret if you don't, they're way over rated.

[Mike Guilbault]

in your edit Bill, is the glue you mention Miracle Muck as in the first paragraph? I don't have any kind of press, hot, cold or otherwise, but I do have a roller, somewhere. I've been thinking of getting some Glamour II to use for mounting some prints.  Would that work too?

[mstevensphoto]

I've got several lithographs (purchased, not mine) where the artist has essentially tacked the very center of the print and let the rest curl/wave a little - a little organic wave in the paper fits right in with the edge and adds interesting shadow to the presentation.

I've done some that I like using matboard or thin foamcore and simply cutting a rectangle that is smaller than the print by enough so you can't see the edge and done what I believe is called a double float - the photo is raised off the backing board and the mat is as well so there's a "trench" inbetween. I love this for little pieces and sometimes make a rather thick presentation of it....something like a 12x12 frame that ends up being 2.5-3" thick.  I suppose one could creatively fold a hinged the photo onto a smaller size backer if you add enough tape or otherwise think the weight of the print won't pull the hinge off over time.

with nice paper it may even look good to do a strap corner or photo corner and let the corner be part of the presentation. I've seen calligraphy done this way and it looks nice.

[Mike Guilbault]

Great tips... thanks!

[John Nollendorfs]

Some people, wanting to be "more archival" or more easily reversable, also use museum tape doubled over in a loup on the back of the print.

[Mike Guilbault]

What about ATG tape?

[bill t.]

ATG tape really only has one legitimate framing use, which is to attach the dust cover to the back of the frame.  For lower grades of framing, it is sometimes also used to attach the matte to print mount, but that's pretty much considered a no-no among good framers.

ATG also has a tendency to bleed through whatever it's attached too.  And the economy grades (that usually smell like pine sap) are very acid.

[Mike Guilbault]

I thought as much, but had never checked/asked before.  Thanks Bill.

[Justan]

in your edit Bill, is the glue you mention Miracle Muck as in the first paragraph? I don't have any kind of press, hot, cold or otherwise, but I do have a roller, somewhere. I've been thinking of getting some Glamour II to use for mounting some prints.  Would that work too?

I've worked with both Glamour ii and Miracle Muck and a roller, but on canvas. Muck is much tackier and I think using a very thin coat will produce more predictable results than Glamour II. Also Muck is a lot less expensive than G2.

[bill t.]

Yes, and Glamour II is a very poor glue because it dries too fast.  Muck is pretty fast drying too, but with significantly more working time.  Muck is also a little safer because even if the glue fails due to being too dry on the original attempt, or if it peels up later, you can always remount it by pressing with a drymount press at around 170 to 190F, or by using a clothes iron (with a paper or silicone cover sheet) if you have to.  Muck is "re-activable" with heat.

[davidh202]

Hey Mike,
 Had a look at your site and want to compliment you on your work!
If you are matting the deckled printa little trick I do is to mount (glue as per Bills suggestions), it to a piece of matboard slightly smaller than the deckled edges then mount the backed print to a back mat. Cut a window mat but  leave about 1/2 to 3/4" around the  deckels. Space the mat up from the back mat with a piece of 3/16 Foam Core.This leaves a shadow under the deckle edge and makes for a very nice mat package when framed.
Of course none of this will work if it is to be "archival"

Pardon My 'Paint' drawing ;-)
David

[Mike Guilbault]

Thanks for the compliment David... and the detail of the mounting.  Nice!