anyone mounting with miracle muck?

[mstevensphoto]

Hi all,
   I've got a client who needs (demands) 4 prints mounted on masonite or something similar. 3 will be canvas and on the 4th they really don't want any texture but I'm not sure what approach to take. They must be on masonite or something similarly rigid but thin because they have a metal worker making custom frames for the pieces. The frames won't allow a 3/4" thick canvas. I don't have a laminator and would really prefer to print these myself as they're very low key prints and I never seem to have the results I want when I outsource very dark images with lots of subtle dark detail.
   so anyway I had miracle muck recommended and it seems that doing the canvas will be a breeze with it. For the low/no texture print I really want to do Optica One or Moab exhibition lustre. the final piece is to be 24x40" - do you think there's any hope of a no bubble no buckle mounting with this product? any tips or tricks you can share?
Mark

[dgberg]

Miracle Muck on Gatorboard is so easy to do with excellent results.
Repositionable too!
You can get Gatorboard in 4x8' sheets in 5/16",3/8" and 1/2".
They all cut fairly easy with a straight edge and razor. You will need a tablesaw for masonite unless you buy it precut to size.
Put your Muck on the Gator with a foam roller,lay down your canvas print and burnish it with a brayer.
Flip it over trim with a razor and its ready to frame. 10 minutes at the most.
I have never used MM on anything other then canvas. Get some and try it.
For that larger size on paper I would just take it to someone with a laminator,especially if you only have one. Should be pretty cheap.

[mstevensphoto]

yay, my "sample" half gallon of MM arrived just now. I'll see if I can't keep from gluing myself to the wall.

[Wayne Fox]

wow ... using something with the word "muck" in it's name sounds kinda scary ... 

[mstevensphoto]

why not? everyone on this forum is selling images that were "squirted/spurted" onto the page

[john milich]

would mm bond to aluminum? and be cured at room temp in a vacuum press?

[Wayne Fox]

why not? everyone on this forum is selling images that were "squirted/spurted" onto the page

[langier]

My framer has used MM but with the latest project of 600-20x30 to 40x60 canvas prints, it was going to be too messy and time consuming.

Our solution was to use heat-activated foam board, basically foam board with the drymount adhesive on one side. No, muss or fuss though it takes a little time with the 2-4 passes it takes in the press to get it all down. With the temp at 160 degrees, overcooking hasn't been a concern with either the canvas or melting down the boards.

It's been really easy to use the board and its available in both 32x40 and 40x60 and even larger with enough lead time, since I think you can have it coated on other sizes and substrates.

Can't remember the brand but I know I found it by searching Google and then passing the info over to the framer who has been ordering this by the pallet. I've used it a couple of times on other projects and not having to deal with the tissue and the detritus that is created when you have to cut the tissue was really nice!

[mstevensphoto]

did a few 16x20 tests and it was beautifully easy EXCEPT that I'm learning that the application table must be totally separate from everything else. I glued one print to the table on accident.

Question for Dan or others, do you use any kind of paper or other thing to protect your print as you burnish it down? I notice faint roller marks and would really rather have something in there. what do you use and where do you get it?

[dgberg]

You should be putting the MM on the substrate not the print. (At least thats how I do it.)
As you roll the MM on your thicker substrate you should not get any on your surrounding table surface.
Lay your laminated or varnished print on the substrate and brayer down and trim.
For better protection while mounting, your print should be varnished or laminated first.
Also remember fine art and photo papers can be extremely fragile. Another reason I mount these papers with the roll laminator and not MM.
I only use MM with canvas and have never had problems with any type of damage while applying.

[mstevensphoto]

per their instructions I coated the back of the canvas print (already varnished) with MM and then lightly coated the 1/2" gator board. I intend to try some optica one at some point, but this is mostly for Canvas for me.even when rolling over the Timeless coated canvas I feel like there should be something between my roller and the varnished surface - it leaves very faint marks. the one mess was my own fault on the learning curve

[StuNY]

I just coat the Gatorboard with MM, roll the oversized print (mostly canvas for me) over the board (print rolled around mailing tube works great for this), lay a piece of craft paper over the print, then just wipe lightly with my hands. I am impressed with how well this works. I don't get any bubbles or irregularities of any kind.

I also just started a new technique where I leave an extra inch of canvas on all the sides. After the mounted canvas dries, I brush a strip of MM about a half inch wide around the back of the Gatorboard. Then I wrap the canvas around the back, holding it in place with a piece of low-tack painters tape (home depot blue stuff). I lay a piece of glass on top of the whole thing, put a few books on top (keeps the flaps flat to the board and edges nice). Corners were the only tricky part of course but I just cut so no folding or overlap. Finished edge makes me happier to hang frameless this way vs. seeing the Gatorboard foam edge.