could you give an estimate of how far down you would go with native resolution for upressing to 720 dpi rather than 360, using Photozoom Pro?
That's hard to say as a general guideline, because it depends on the subject matter and viewing distance. Also, when possible I try to shoot for the intended output, so I try to get the resolution I need later at capture time (e.g. by stitching). In addition, e.g. with architecture, some of the missing resolution can be restored (by deconvolution sharpening) or simulated/recreated by software such as Photozoom Pro. Even the addition of noise can trick the human eye (or rather the brain) into seeing non-existing detail.
Long story short, get as much detail to begin with
by using good technique (e.g. tripod if possible/practical), use deconvolution sharpening
to compensate for inevitable losses due to the capture process and enlargement process (interpolation method makes a difference) and make sure the printer uses every bit of detail
that's thrown at it.
I almost always feed the printer the maximum resolution it's driver can handle, which is easy with Qimage. The worst that can happen is that printing takes a bit longer. Only when I have time constraints I will make a concession and drop the output resolution.
Thanks for making me aware of this app. Unlike Qimage, it can handle 16 bit color depth (and there is a Mac version… :-) ).
You're welcome. Just use a bit of restraint and do not go overboard with the vectorized edge enhancement, because the visual disconnect between too much edge detail versus material surface/structural detail looks unnatural.
Same to you, and the others reading this.