9900 or 11880

[Sven W]

mmmmm.. That was exactly my point when I wrote about the similar output of the 7880, 7900 and 9800

Next time, read the whole post Sven.

J

Don't worry about bronzing and gloss differential: it is still there on the 7900 as well (try the on this forum so much loved Canson baryta paper and you know what I mean...)

That's exactly what I did.

/Sven

[deanwork]

The Canson Baryta has bronzing on all the makes of printers including the HP and the new Canons, as does its near clone the Ilford Baryta (neither of them have baryta in them by the way). But it is a nice paper with a good gamut and a nice texture. The Harmon B produces no bronzing or much less depending on the inkset.

j

[Sven W]

Quote from the Canson site:

"Baryta Photographique is a true Baryta paper developed for inkjet technology. It consists of an alpha- cellulose, acid-free pure white paper with the same barium sulphate coating as for traditional silver halide and a premium inkjet colour receiver layer."

/Sven

[GamutGirl]

We have both, but I like the build quality on the 9900 better than the 11880. The arm that releases the roll on the 11880 seems flimsy, like its going to break off. Otherwise, the print quality and speed seem the same. The 9900 does have dedicated orange and green ink cartridges, which the 11880 doesn't, but I can gang up more prints on the 60" roll than the 44" roll and save some money.

[jschone]

Ok, somehow we went a little off topic here, and it became more of an inkjet paper commercial. But for the original poster:

-Make sure you're able to handle the print size (rotatrim cutter, table size, mounting etc.);
-Bigger is not better. I have been printing for the last 5 years for the Roman international Fotofestival and there is a trend to smaller, more intimate images. For 2011, The large images I printed for Alec Soth where 40" x 30" and the smaller images where 24" x 18". All those images were printed on Epson Premium Luster Paper. The images of Anders Petersen I printed on Epson Cold Press Natural paper and were 24" x 30".
-The epson 9800 prints the same as the 9900. Bronzing and Gloss differential are part of the inkjet process (since the ink is sitting on the paper). I wouldn't  bother about it too much. Paper being fragile, now that IS a problem and the coating usually s..kcs. (the hahnemuhle papers are better, but the newer PhotoRag Baryta papers might be a little too "dinosaur skin" like). Nothing you can do about it for now, just "handle with care"

On Inkjet papers:

-Canson Baryta is good, but fragile. Harman/Hahn Baryta is fragile and not as sharp as Canson. Hahn PhotoRag Baryta is excellent but "snake skin like" texture
-Hahnemuhle PhotoRag is still a standard. Portfolio etc. Learn to soft-proof this paper.
-Framed behind glass? just use Epson Premium Luster. Cheap and sharp

J

[deanwork]

 I'm not trying to be a smart ass here, really, but some of this just isn't accurate.

Gloss  differential and bronzing were totally eliminated over 5 years ago with the HP Z series on every RC media I've ever used. There was some remaining bronzing with fiber gloss but not rc.

Now that I have the IPF 8300 ( now what 2 years old) and use the Harmon Baryta, which is quite sharp from my files, and certainly sharper than Premium Luster and as sharp as Canson by any measure on my Canon (with output sharpening in the plug-in,)  I see it is free of all gloss differential.  I'm not seeing bronzing either, even with black and white work when printing out of the True Black and White rip by BawHaus. This is a killer combination and nothing coming out of an Epson printer is looking like this, for both clean monochrome print color as well as lack of three dimensional artifacts. But even if it did have an ultra subtle amount of bronzing, one very light coat of Premier Art and it would be gone. There were only a couple of instances where that was visible with very large areas of pure black against large areas of pure white, but you really had to rotate it in your hand and search for it even then.

I was never able to make that happen, even with spraying on my HP. That gloss optimiser simply didn't work with smooth gloss fiber, but totally worked with rc media.

From reading more about it apparently the Canson is using some baryta sulfate in their coating, but I doubt very much if most of the "baryta' inkjet papers are really baryta coated. It is more about the psychology of a silver print than any real attribute of baryta. Because people still have a mythology about silver that takes over their imaginations.

Right, the Canson and Ilford will scratch if you breathe on them wrong. I had to quit using both when I noticed I had to polish out all the scratches in the border areas, if I was lucky and didn't see any inside the image. That and the bronzing was too much, and it's a shame because the color gamut is very good, but so is the Harmon gamut. Both have a moderate amount of flourescent brightners and are holding up pretty well in the aardenburg tests. The Epson "signature worthy" Exhibiton Fiber is turning gray fast.

.--------------------------
-The epson 9800 prints the same as the 9900. Bronzing and Gloss differential are part of the inkjet process (since the ink is sitting on the paper). I wouldn't  bother about it too much. Paper being fragile, now that IS a problem and the coating usually s..kcs. (the hahnemuhle papers are better, but the newer PhotoRag Baryta papers might be a little too "dinosaur skin" like). Nothing you can do about it for now, just "handle with care"

On Inkjet papers:

-Canson Baryta is good, but fragile. Harman/Hahn Baryta is fragile and not as sharp as Canson. Hahn PhotoRag Baryta is excellent but "snake skin like" texture
-Hahnemuhle PhotoRag is still a standard. Portfolio etc. Learn to soft-proof this paper.
-Framed behind glass? just use Epson Premium Luster. Cheap and sharp

J

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