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Author Topic: Bryce Canyon & Zion National Park  (Read 9828 times)

jimhuber

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Bryce Canyon & Zion National Park
« on: August 30, 2005, 10:48:42 am »

Zion and Bryce don't require guides like Monument Valley does (Monument Valley is in the Navajo Nation/Reservation). Nor do the size or complexity really demand it. Both are small "drive through" parks with some short hikes. The drives are quite popular, the hikes less so but still can be crowded.

In Zion the premier location is Angel's Landing, but the climb is fairly strenuous and you WILL need both hands in several places so have a good bag or backpack for your camera gear. Many don't make it past "the neck" just past Scout's Landing on the way up to the top. There's no shame if you don't: the drop is 1200' straight down on one side and 900' on the other IIRC, and the rock you have to climb over in the middle of the neck is about 3' wide, 3' tall, and sandy (the whole area is sandstone). The Emerald Pools hike is a short, pleasant warmup and pretty. Other than Angels Landing the locations in Zion are all down in the canyon - the roads are at the bottom, which makes it a bit unusual, so "sunrise" is much later and "sunset" much earlier than if you were on the rim.

Both Zion and Bryce are very heavily travelled parks because of their proximity to a major interstate highway (I-15). If it were me with one weekend from Salt Lake City, I'd go either further south to the north rim of the Grand Canyon and drive out to the two very scenic overlooks just east of the lodge (Point Imperial and ?), or go to Yellowstone via Jackson Wyoming and the road past the Tetons.

I was in Yellowstone in July, and the northeast corner of the figure eight road is closed. Mammoth Hot Springs on the far northwest corner is no longer worth visiting, in my opinion: totally dry now. Old Faithful is cliche, but that area is still beautiful and the short hike down through that area is worth it. Lower Falls is on the northeast side, but not in the construction zone. The short but steep hike down yields better photos. Hayden Valley nearby is fantastic for bison with a long telephoto, but I believe inaccessible due to construction. That leaves Fishing Bridge and Grant's Crossing? on the south loop, which are nice, too, but not premier locations. If you go to Yellowstone, stay in Jackson overnight one night so you can get sunrise photos of the Tetons early the next morning. But Jackson is expensive... try not to get sucked in to the shops.

My first choice is still definitely the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, though. That's one place every landscape photographer should go at least once in their life. It really is that impressive.
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msbc

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« Reply #1 on: August 30, 2005, 07:36:58 pm »

Jim and Lisa,

Thanks for your replys.

I was expecting to need a guide but after reading this info I went out and purchased the Lonley Planet book "Zion & Bryce Canyon". An excellent book with all the info you need to see this area.

Thanks,
Mark
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Mark Connell
Melbourne, Australia

Lisa Nikodym

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Bryce Canyon & Zion National Park
« Reply #2 on: August 31, 2005, 11:46:01 am »

Quote
an excellent resource is Photographing the Southwest (2 volumes) by Laurent Martres.

I'll second that!

Lisa
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Tim Gray

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Bryce Canyon & Zion National Park
« Reply #3 on: September 02, 2005, 02:14:08 pm »

You don't need a guide if you stick to the scenic drive, but you can't stray off the road.  Tom Phillips  is the guide I've used and can highly recommend.  Actually Tom is pretty well the standard for a photo guide in that area.
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howard smith

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« Reply #4 on: September 05, 2005, 11:43:34 am »

Stop at the Visitor Centers of most parks and look at the post cards and posters for sale.  They are usually the more interesting (and photographed) spots.  Rangers are helpful but will usually over estimate the difficulty of getting someplace.  They don't want to come get you.

RdF, you do not need permission to drive through and see the main features from the roads.  To go "off road" I think requires an Indian guide and/or permission (easy to get with money).  But I'm not positive.

jimhuber is certainly correct about the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.  It is indeed part of part of the park, but quite a drive away from the South Rim, ans not as crowded as the South Rim and cooler in summer (closed in winter).  There are plenty of fire roads and paved roads to check out for different views.  I saw a few California condors flying about last summer.  (The patio at the lodge is a fine plece for watching the sunset with a brandy.  If it is cold or raining, try a seat near the fire place just inside.)  I have no idea of current costs, but cabin #409 is right on the rim with a fantastic view from the front porch.  Dinner at the lodge can be expensive but well worth it if you are lucky enough to get a window table.  Be sure to get a thick shake at Jacob's Lake.

For bison, I have never been able to top the area just east and a bit north of the Jackson airport.  You will not need a telephoto lens, but stay in your car and let them approach you (for safety).  The well photographed barn with Teton back drop is there also.  Try the barber shop on the north side of the square in Jackson for local info.  The barbers know it all and will talk.

In Jackson, be sure to try Anthony's for dinner.  I was there last month and the Cajon pasta (about $21 but huge) is still excellent.  If you go with an appitizer, you can split it with ??.  Try the house chianti, not bad ($16 a liter) at all and half the price of a bottle.  Pearl Street Bagels has great coffe and, well, bagels.  They don't have a toaster though.  Bubba's has a good salad bar for lunch.  I have tried the Gun Barrel for "exotic" meats, but was not impressed.

You can skip Bryce if you go to Cedar Breaks.  It is the same as Bryce except oprn to the west.  There has been a beatle bloom there and many trees are dead.  It happens every 75-80 years and was right on schedule.

The east entrance of Yellowstone road is closed at night (8pm to 8am) and has one lane with flagger during the day.  Expect up to an hour delay.  Old Faithful is cliche, but who goes to Yellowstone and doesn't see it?  There are bigger and more regular gysers around, but only one Old Faithful.
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msbc

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« Reply #5 on: August 29, 2005, 07:22:17 pm »

Looking for tour guide recommendations for Bryce and Zion. Preferrably a guide who is 'tuned' to the needs of landscape photographers.
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Mark Connell
Melbourne, Australia

Lisa Nikodym

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Bryce Canyon & Zion National Park
« Reply #6 on: August 30, 2005, 12:22:52 pm »

You really don't need a guide for Bryce or Zion;you ca get plenty of info yourself ahead of time on where to go.  The terrain is extremely well-documented and well-traveled.  There are plenty of good guidebooks for the parks, and you can use the web to get park maps and seach for photos of places to see what looks good to you.

The Grand Canyon is certainly spectacular, but then so are Bryce and Zion in their own distinct ways.  It's a matter of personal taste.

Lisa
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Tim Gray

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« Reply #7 on: August 31, 2005, 08:40:00 am »

an excellent resource is Photographing the Southwest (2 volumes) by Laurent Martres.
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RdF

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« Reply #8 on: September 02, 2005, 01:06:32 pm »

Hi there,

I just run into this forum while searching the Internet aubout digital photography.
I am Robert from Germany.
Jimhuber wrote that one needs a guide for the Monument Valley. I am planning to go to the USA again and I like to visit the Monument Valley. Does one need a guide or is it law to use a guide?
Thx for your help

Robert
www.rdf-foto.com
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Peter McLennan

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Bryce Canyon & Zion National Park
« Reply #9 on: September 02, 2005, 09:43:30 pm »

I agree with Jim.  If you have a chance to visit the North Rim, take it.  The approaches (especially from the east) offer great landscapes and the North Rim is totally different from the "downtown" aspect of the South Rim.  It's isolated, remote and incredible.  Your timing is great, too.
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RdF

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« Reply #10 on: September 03, 2005, 11:09:50 am »

Hi Jim, hi Peter,

thank you for your tip.
Does one have to ask the Navajo Nation/Reservation for persmission to visit the Monument Valley - like the Aborigines People in Australia for some Parks?

edit: Peter, is the North Rim" not a part of the Grand Canyon?
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RdF

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« Reply #11 on: September 05, 2005, 12:32:39 pm »

Hi Howard,

thank you very much for these precious tips. My stay will be very beautifull and adventurous :-). It will be my 6th stay in your beautifull nation and I hope that the disaster in the South will be over soon - will all pray for you!

cu and thank you again
Robert
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liquidforce

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« Reply #12 on: August 07, 2006, 04:22:59 pm »

One thing that is convenient in both Zion and Bryce parks is the park's shuttle systems that access, respectively, the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive and the Bryce Canyon Scenic Drive.  The shuttles are free with the park entrance fee, and provide an excellent way to glimpse the sights without the hassle of driving and parking in these often-crowded national parks.
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Win

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Bryce Canyon & Zion National Park
« Reply #13 on: August 08, 2006, 10:54:38 am »

Good information here. If you are coming to this area here are two good books to have:

 Hiking Zion &  Bryce by Falcon Guide  Second Edition

 Ron Kay's Guide to Zion N.P.  this may be discontinued. Great if you can find one! Mine is falling apaert from use.

Win
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framah

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« Reply #14 on: August 08, 2006, 03:24:18 pm »

Ok... I just read this post and realized it started a year ago but someone has picked it back up so I will post my thoughts.

On the North Rim, what you want to do is head out to Toroweep Point.  At the town you drive thru on the way to where everyone else goes on the North Rim, there is a blinking lite. Turn right at that lite and drive a few miles till you see a dirt road thru a fence to your left. This road is about 35 miles or so and there is usually no one  else on this road  except miners for the first few miles. The people at the BLM office at the blinking lite know about this and will help you with directions and such. At the end of the road, is the edge of the canyon... no people... no cigarette butts... no nothing!!  When I went out there, I took food and water  for 3 days and camping gear in case I had to hike back out if my car broke down.  There is no one out there to rescue you so be prepared.

 Park the car and walk a 100 feet or so and there is the edge of the canyon.  Great stuff there!! Probably one of the best trips I've ever taken.
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Win

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« Reply #15 on: August 08, 2006, 04:07:14 pm »

I just want to add a little to what Framah posted. Toroweap is 60 mile south of RT 389, about 8 miles West of Fredonia, AZ. or about 12 miles West of Kanab. There is sign marking the turn. The road is pretty smooth for the first 55 miles and extremely rough for the last 5 miles. You best have a full tank of gas and at least one spare tire.

This is an exceptional place, you're looking straight down at the Colorado from 3000 FT.
There are a couple of hikes in that area, I'll be back in Sept and probably do one. Also,
there is the Namoweap Petroglyph site that only takes you a few mile out of your way.
A nice hike into "Billy Goat Canyon" and over 1000 drawings!

Toroweap can also be accessed out of St George (90 miles) and out of Colorado City (60 miles). I just drove out from St George and it's a much prettier drive than from Fredonia but it's long!

Don't miss this if you have the time!

Win
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