Newbie Advice wanted - Suggestion for Wide angle Landscapes

[Don Libby]

Henry,

Someone earlier suggested that you'd be wasting $30k on medium format when you can stitch to "any field of view and do it more easily than an MF camera". 

I believe this statement is only partially correct and I'm not going to take the time to enter into a "who's wiener is larger" debate.

I made the move from shooting a 1DsII to MF several years ago first using a Mamiya AFDII then upgraded to a Phase AFD after it first was released; during time I shot with a P30+.  I found the Mamiya/Phase 645 very much like shooting the 1DsII in that it offers the same level of controls (some slower than a 35mm).  I kept shooting multiple stitch images and kept getting the same results upon stitching the images - what I refer to as either the butterfly or bowtie effect.  No matter how diligent I was in setting the camera up I was never able to properly find the nodal point of the lens being used thus giving me a distortion of the finish image - the sides would be full however the image would slide down on either the top or bottom or both.  Cropped and saved it looked good however I wanted more.  I wanted the ability to flat stitch which is what a tech camera offers.

In the end the question I'll ask myself is would I ever think of returning to using a DSRL as my primary landscape kit?  The answer is no.   I will point that I also use a Leica M9 as a companion camera to the WRS for those times when I need a weight reduction.

Viewfinder as an option.  I'm a very firm believer in getting to know your equipment so I'd suggest you don't jump right into a viewfinder.  Take you time and get to know the camera and lenses you'll be using.  I'm not saying don't get one I'm just saying you might not have to rush right out there and get one.  It took me close to 18 months before I finally got one.  Also be aware that there aren't screens for ever lens (there isn't one for the 120 I use).  They're nice to have - just not feel yoy have a need to rush into buying one.

LCC:  I routinely shoot a white card before each image I capture no matter the lens.  It doesn't take a great deal of time and saves time in the long run.  There again using a tech camera isn't about the speed.

Computers:  My studio computer is going on 5 years old and the laptop 2.  I'd say you should be okay with what you currently have.

Hope this is helpful.

Don

[elliot_n]

I kept shooting multiple stitch images and kept getting the same results upon stitching the images - what I refer to as either the butterfly or bowtie effect.  No matter how diligent I was in setting the camera up I was never able to properly find the nodal point of the lens being used thus giving me a distortion of the finish image - the sides would be full however the image would slide down on either the top or bottom or both.

What you're calling the 'bowtie' effect is not a symptom of poor camera set-up (establishing the correct nodal point, levelling the camera etc.). It's just the way it is when shooting panos with a rectilinear projection - the edges of the stitched frame bow inwards. So it's no good estimating your final composition, and then shooting a grid based on the corners of that composition - you need to shoot wider than that, as the corners will be lost in the final stitch. There are workflows that deal with this issue. That said, I wouldn't recommend stitching for wide angle landscape photography - any movement of trees, clouds, water etc. is going to cause problems. I use stitching for architectural subjects, and it works well for that.

[hdomke]

LCC:  I routinely shoot a white card before each image I capture no matter the lens.  It doesn't take a great deal of time and saves time in the long run.

Does that mean you don't use center filters?
Or do you still shoot a white card even if you have a center filter?

[hdomke]

I wouldn't recommend stitching for wide angle landscape photography - any movement of trees, clouds, water etc. is going to cause problems.

Are you saying you think my plan won't work well?
I was planning on stitching two or three exposures using these three components: Schneider 35 XL Digitar lens, Cambo Wide body, P45+ (or P65+) back.

Better to just get an 80MP back and not mess with stitching?

[elliot_n]

Are you saying you think my plan won't work well?
I was planning on stitching two or three exposures using these three components: Schneider 35 XL Digitar lens, Cambo Wide body, P45+ (or P65+) back.

Better to just get an 80MP back and not mess with stitching?

Sure, if you're loaded.

[Don Libby]

Does that mean you don't use center filters?
Or do you still shoot a white card even if you have a center filter?

I've got a center filter on the 35 and yes I shoot a white card on all my lenses.

Don

[Don Libby]

Are you saying you think my plan won't work well?
I was planning on stitching two or three exposures using these three components: Schneider 35 XL Digitar lens, Cambo Wide body, P45+ (or P65+) back.

Better to just get an 80MP back and not mess with stitching?

Works for me!  I've done this a couple times...  Better stick with either a P45 or 65 right now unless you can afford the IQ.  There's plenty (or soon will be) good deals on the P65 and that's the one I'd recommend for more bang for the buck.

[Don Libby]

What you're calling the 'bowtie' effect is not a symptom of poor camera set-up (establishing the correct nodal point, levelling the camera etc.). It's just the way it is when shooting panos with a rectilinear projection - the edges of the stitched frame bow inwards. So it's no good estimating your final composition, and then shooting a grid based on the corners of that composition - you need to shoot wider than that, as the corners will be lost in the final stitch. There are workflows that deal with this issue. That said, I wouldn't recommend stitching for wide angle landscape photography - any movement of trees, clouds, water etc. is going to cause problems. I use stitching for architectural subjects, and it works well for that.

And this is the number one reason I switched to a tech camera.  Once you get your capture workflow down any movements are minor and easly corrected - unless you're standing in a gale...

[john milich]

i haven't really investigated the reasons, but i have gotten the bowtie from a series of pano images processed in photoshop and then if instead, processed in autogigapano(whatever the name is), no bowtie

[tonyhowell]

I use the Cambo Wide DS with 35mm Schneider XL (and centre filter) & P45, and the results are stunning. I do find the camera much harder work than a Phase One 645 body, but the images are the best I've ever seen. I've printed several metres wide with great results. The P65 and the iQ180 have to be better though.