I kept shooting multiple stitch images and kept getting the same results upon stitching the images - what I refer to as either the butterfly or bowtie effect. No matter how diligent I was in setting the camera up I was never able to properly find the nodal point of the lens being used thus giving me a distortion of the finish image - the sides would be full however the image would slide down on either the top or bottom or both.
LCC: I routinely shoot a white card before each image I capture no matter the lens. It doesn't take a great deal of time and saves time in the long run.
I wouldn't recommend stitching for wide angle landscape photography - any movement of trees, clouds, water etc. is going to cause problems.
Are you saying you think my plan won't work well?I was planning on stitching two or three exposures using these three components: Schneider 35 XL Digitar lens, Cambo Wide body, P45+ (or P65+) back. Better to just get an 80MP back and not mess with stitching?
Does that mean you don't use center filters? Or do you still shoot a white card even if you have a center filter?
What you're calling the 'bowtie' effect is not a symptom of poor camera set-up (establishing the correct nodal point, levelling the camera etc.). It's just the way it is when shooting panos with a rectilinear projection - the edges of the stitched frame bow inwards. So it's no good estimating your final composition, and then shooting a grid based on the corners of that composition - you need to shoot wider than that, as the corners will be lost in the final stitch. There are workflows that deal with this issue. That said, I wouldn't recommend stitching for wide angle landscape photography - any movement of trees, clouds, water etc. is going to cause problems. I use stitching for architectural subjects, and it works well for that.