Topic: Removing powerlines from a photo (Read 14737 times)

Chairman Bill · « **on:** May 27, 2011, 07:11:28 pm »

I am used to making repairs to an image (mainly removing dust, or maybe the odd bird that is so indistinct that it looks like dust), but here's the problem; how do I remove powerlines from a photo, without distorting the sky to such an extent that it's noticeable, and without spending half my life doing it? Answers on the back of a postcard, or you can stick 'em up here.

bill t. · « **Reply #1 on:** May 27, 2011, 07:24:53 pm »

Here's the hot shot way...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AiJuCFMTSJE

But I'm so backwards I usually just bang away with the healing brush and the rubber stamp. With those tools, best to create an empty layer on top of your image, then switch to that layer. Make the you have "current and below" selected in the tool bar. Then all your rubber stamping winds up on the new layer where it can be erased, blurred, adjusted, or just tossed without messing up your original image.

And there are a bazillion other ways to do it.

Edit...the real trick with my backward method is to sample areas that are well away from the area where you will paint, but which are still similar in density. Prevents "resonating" nearby shapes, or as we call it here, "The Iranian Rocket Effect."

Chairman Bill · « **Reply #2 on:** May 27, 2011, 07:28:37 pm »

I've tried a similar method (Aperture is non-destructive, so no need for the layers), but after 123 different strokes of the 'healing brush', I gave up in frustration!

Mark D Segal · « **Reply #3 on:** May 27, 2011, 07:33:13 pm »

I wouldn't use a program like Aperture for that. This is something that needs the refinement of Photoshop. In Photoshop some of it will respond well to the spot healing brush, and some will need a very soft, properly-sized clone tool approach. Depending on the nature of the surrounding content, sometimes you can make a soft-edge layer of the material immediately above or below the line, and simply move it over the line, making sure any seams are smothered-out.

bill t. · « **Reply #4 on:** May 27, 2011, 07:38:50 pm »

Yes, any sort of major replacement needs Photoshop. Takes a lot of practice. Are you dragging the brush, or just making a lot of static pokes? Dragging + wiggling is good technique.

Another technique is to duplicate the image layer, then shift one of the layers a few times the width of the line, diagonally is best. Then create a mask on the top layer. Brush black on the mask over the area you want to de-wire, causes the "clear" area below to show through. I still like the rubber stamp, however.

Mark D Segal · « **Reply #5 on:** May 27, 2011, 07:52:13 pm »

I think using Content-Aware Fill as Russel Brown demos in that YouTube video can also be a very efficient way of doing it. It depends on the complexity of the material surrounding the line. I've used it where the surroundings are not complex, but found I had to use more manual techniques for lines crossing areas of high density detail, taking great care that everything which should "register" in place of the line does so.

bill t. · « **Reply #6 on:** May 27, 2011, 07:56:42 pm »

With the content aware healing brush, I found squiggles to be very effective for your image. Lots of up backing up, etc. Size 5, Hardness 10, Spacing 25.

Peter McLennan · « **Reply #7 on:** May 28, 2011, 12:22:38 am »

And then, after an hour of carefully removing all those wires from your shot, you realize that you have to remove the shadows of those wires, too.

stamper · « **Reply #8 on:** May 28, 2011, 04:08:25 am »

A new sky? I think there is room to add a layer with a sky in it and use the gradient tool. This means no intricate selections involved.

Chairman Bill · « **Reply #9 on:** May 28, 2011, 06:22:51 am »

Hmm. I'm not sure it's worth getting Photoshop just for that. Will Elements cover it?

francois · « **Reply #10 on:** May 28, 2011, 06:48:25 am »

Quote from: Chairman Bill on May 28, 2011, 06:22:51 am

Hmm. I'm not sure it's worth getting Photoshop just for that. Will Elements cover it?

You could download a trial version of Photoshop (either CS5 or Elements). You can use it for 30 days for free.

Christoph C. Feldhaim · « **Reply #11 on:** May 28, 2011, 08:54:28 am »

Using a hand saw prior to shooting might also help ....

stamper · « **Reply #12 on:** May 28, 2011, 10:15:39 am »

Quote from: Chairman Bill on May 28, 2011, 06:22:51 am

Hmm. I'm not sure it's worth getting Photoshop just for that. Will Elements cover it?

I haven't used elements but I believe it has layers. The process is quite simple. Google for layers and gradient tool. It is a good way of combining a new sky with an existing one without using selections. You need a a fair portion of sky in the original.

John R Smith · « **Reply #13 on:** May 28, 2011, 11:32:43 am »

Bill

I have sorted out the odd powerline now and then using the clone tool in Elements. I wouldn't think of trying it in LR, which is what I use most of the time. But it does take a lot of practice - it's easiest against fairly random texture such as leaves or grass which you can replicate without much problem. Clouds are pretty tricky, any slight mismatch in tonal density or texture screams at you. There are so many wires here that I just would not bother taking them out.

If the picture was really major league important to you for some reason, just get a pro re-toucher to do the job and pay them the going rate.

John

Mark D Segal · « **Reply #14 on:** May 28, 2011, 11:45:40 am »

I downloaded the image, resized it and looked at it "close-up". "Content-aware" was not very helpful for this one because of the alternating background between sky and cloud, some of which is completely clipped. It needs very careful cloning. It just takes time and practice. This is a craft and most craft does take time and patience. No reason why you can't use Elements.

Chairman Bill · « **Reply #15 on:** May 28, 2011, 01:08:43 pm »

Quote from: John R Smith on May 28, 2011, 11:32:43 am

If the picture was really major league important to you for some reason ...

It isn't, and neither are any of the others I want to remove such features from, I was offereing it as an example of the sort of thing where I find it really difficult to deal with these things. Thought there might be some easy techy way to sort it that I was unaware of.

Everyone, thanks for the comments & advice. I might have to fall back on my demolitions training & just bring down the pylons with some well-paced cutting charges. Anyone got any PE4/C4 & det. cord going spare?

Jeremy Roussak · « **Reply #16 on:** May 28, 2011, 01:27:34 pm »

Quote from: Christoph C. Feldhaim on May 28, 2011, 08:54:28 am

Using a hand saw prior to shooting might also help ....

In fact, if you don't wear your extra-thick rubber boots, you'll never worry about a power line in one of your photographs ever again. Problem solved.

Jeremy

bill t. · « **Reply #17 on:** May 28, 2011, 01:32:58 pm »

Sorry, used up all my C4 removing fence posts and repositioning boulders.

A landscape photographer can benefit from a good assistant...

mouse · « **Reply #18 on:** May 29, 2011, 08:25:30 pm »

You might take a look at
http://vicanek.de/plugins/wireworm.htm

Mark D Segal · « **Reply #19 on:** May 29, 2011, 09:47:19 pm »

Quote from: mouse on May 29, 2011, 08:25:30 pm

You might take a look at
http://vicanek.de/plugins/wireworm.htm

Windows only.

Author Topic: Removing powerlines from a photo (Read 14737 times)