When to Spray Booksmart Aluminum Prints?

[Light Seeker]

We've talked in the past about drying time and the dust issues associate with coating your own aluminum. So, I picked up a Booksmart / Horizons sample pack and made a couple of prints. The surface is indeed pristine, and it has a very nice luster look (I quite like it). While the pre-coat is no longer an issue I am still fighting a bit with dust and hair. Since the ink sits on top of the metal it is tacky, and takes quite a while to dry (overnight). Given that, my preference is to apply a ClearJet coating almost immediately after printing. However, I worry about out-gassing.

For those of you making Booksmart / Horizons aluminum prints, when do you apply your protective coating? If you apply it early, have you had any out-gassing issues?

Thanks.

Terry.

[dgberg]

The ink really needs to dry and I mean dry. A day or two is iffy.
If you have alot of black it could take a week. Somewhere in the archives I put up a picture of a metal print showing what can happen when coating to soon when your black ink is not dry.
Instant crackle finish!

[Light Seeker]

I remember that image now Dan! And here I was worried about out-gassing. Interestingly, the Booksmart site suggests waiting 20 minutes.

Have you been able to get clean, dust-free prints after waiting that long, Dan

Terry.

[dgberg]

Yes.
Multiple coats and lightly sanding between coats can give you an almost perfect finish.
On the other hand I  have done several light mist coats with the print standing up and the print looks great.
No right or wrong way. Just experiment and see what works for you.

[Light Seeker]

Sanding. . .  that's the step I'm missing. What are you using for sandpaper?

I have some Clearjet Type A 2000 (semi-gloss and gloss), which is what I recall you were using. Have you tried Clearjet Type AFA yet?

Terry.

[dgberg]

3m trimite 320 grit. It's primary use is for between seal coats of furniture lacquer.
Any of the black wet/dry papers will work. The 600 grit also works well.
I would not sand until you have at least 2 coats on your print.
All you are doing is sanding the dust nibs down. Wipe clean and spray your final coat,standing up.
For that very special look sometimes I put down a half dozen coats.
The ones I put that much work into are for presentation.
All this work is really not necessary if your just looking to protect the print. A couple of light coats and done.
The 2000 is the 12 oz. can and I think FA is the gallon. I may have to look that up.

[Light Seeker]

I found some 400 grit waterproof sandpaper. Thanks for the instructions Dan.

Shades of Paper sells ClearJet A 2000 and ClearJet AFA - Fine Art Version. The ClearJet site positions AFA as a recent addition, and says that it will go deeper into the fine art media (e.g. canvas) so it's more flexible. It also comes in a Low Gloss version.

Terry.

[Randy Carone]

Clearstar's Fine Art versions are specifically engineered for canvas. Use the A2000 for paper and hard substrates such as metal.

[Light Seeker]

Clearstar's Fine Art versions are specifically engineered for canvas. Use the A2000 for paper and hard substrates such as metal.

Thanks for clarifying that Randy.

A question. The Fine Art version comes in Low Gloss (A 2000 does not). Would this be suitable for coating a matte paper, such as Canson Rag Photographique?

Terry.

[Randy Carone]

Type C (water-based) and/or Fine Art (solvent) are NOT recommended for use on paper.

[Light Seeker]

Thanks Randy.

Terry.