Glass vs Acrylic

[Mike Guilbault]

Other than the weight advantage of acrylic (plexiglass), are there any other things to consider when deciding whether to use glass or acrylic?

[kaelaria]

UV protection, anti-glare, color shift, frame material/size...

[Mike Guilbault]

from what I've read so far, UV protection and anti-glare is available for both and they both can produce a colour shift. Is either one lesser than the other in these regards?

I can understand size of the image can be a factor - 30x40" glass is going to be extremely heavy... but yet I still see it being used.  Why wouldn't you use acrylic in this instance?

[NaturePhotos]

In addition to points already made, acrylic is:
- more expensive
- more prone to scratching
- must use acrylic/plastic cleaner, which streaks (unless someone else knows of one that doesn't).

Nonetheless, I use it almost exclusively (Acrylite UV).

Here are some more points to consider:
http://www.framedestination.com/acrylic_selection.html

[bill t.]

The only really effective anti glare acrylic is Optium, which is a very expensive option.

Some galleries now forbid glass on largish pieces for insurance purposes.  Acrylic doesn't cause shrapnel damage to the artwork or nearby human bodies if the frame falls.

As mentioned, acrylic scratches easily and sometimes a sheet you thought was immaculate will look awful under a gallery spotlight.  One well meaning cleaning attempt by a clueless person can create countless scratches.  Also, if the frame puts the slightest amount of pinch or warp on the sheet, you get funhouse mirror effects in the reflections.  Acrylic framing packages must be put together rather loose, you should be able to feel the artwork package shifting around slightly when you tilt the frame.  Also tape sealing the inner artwork package against dust it not a very good idea for acrylic, again because of surface distortions.

The most common framing grade of acrylic is Acrylite-FF, costs about $67 for a 4x8 foot sheet at Piedmont.  They'll cut a sheet up any way want for about $15.

[neile]

Personally, I'm a big fan of TruVue Acrylite Conservation Clear. That stuff just disappears when it's in front of a photo. Plus it's lightweight, which even in smaller frames is nice.

For cleaning/polishing Novus Polish 1 is exactly what you need: http://www.novuspolish.com/.

Neil

[framah]

Whatever you do... never clean any acrylic with any cleaner containing ammonia!!! It will mess up the surface. I use  plexi cleaner and Glass Plus works as well.

The other plus for acrylic over glass is the thermal features. Plexi is less prone to condensation on the inside of the package than glass is.

So you know.. regular float glass 1/16", weighs 1.7 lb per sq ft.   and 1/8" plexi weighs .7 lbs per sq ft.

A 30x40 piece of that glass would weigh a bit over 14 lbs where a piece of 1/8" plexi would weigh  5.8 lbs.

[Alan Goldhammer]

The most common framing grade of acrylic is Acrylite-FF, costs about $67 for a 4x8 foot sheet at Piedmont.  They'll cut a sheet up any way want for about $15.

Thanks for the tip on Piedmont.  I'm going to get some quotes from them.  They have a distribution center not far from where I live.

[bill t.]

Acrylite-FF is just the most commonly used grade because it offers very good quality for the price, but it's not necessarily the most desirable.  Haven't used glazing in a while so I'm not up on the various grades, but here's a link to the Evonik acrylic product page and of course there are other manufacturers as well.

http://www.acrylite.net/product/acrylite/en/application-areas/picture-framing/pages/default.aspx

[Alan Goldhammer]

Acrylite-FF is just the most commonly used grade because it offers very good quality for the price, but it's not necessarily the most desirable.  Haven't used glazing in a while so I'm not up on the various grades, but here's a link to the Evonik acrylic product page and of course there are other manufacturers as well.

http://www.acrylite.net/product/acrylite/en/application-areas/picture-framing/pages/default.aspx

Normally I use the 'FF' but I have some difficult lighting conditions and may need to take a look at the 'non-glare' version.

[mshea]

I recently bought a ready-made wooden frame with acrylic. After removing the protective film from the acrylic, the static charge on the acrylic made removing bits of schmutz a real pain. Is that a problem with all makes of acrylic? If so, is there any way to neutralize that charge?

Merrill

[bill t.]

The Novus #1 polish Neil mentioned very effectively neutralizes the static charge on acrylic.  Makes it very easy to get those last little dust motes (aka "flubs") out when you are closing the frame.

You need to vigorously polish both sides.  I use blue Scott shop towels to do most of the wet polishing, then switch to a clean, dry old t-shirt to remove the last almost invisible residue from the dry surface.  All the while buffing vigorously.  Lay a large bath towel on your work surface to protect the acrylic surfaces.

Cutting the acrylic will often leave little chips of plastic attached to the cover adhesive and the sides of the sheet.  Very important to remove these chips from the sides before any buffing operations, wouldn't want to drag them across the surface.  You can use a moist paper towel or a piece of tape to remove them.

Edit...where most newbies mess up is not removing all the residue by buffing with a dry, smooth, clean towel at the end.  Streaks you don't notice in the workplace can become painfully evident under spot lights.  Never hurts to give your closed frame a final closeup flashlight beam test.

[Alan Goldhammer]

I opt for the really cheap way to neutralize the static.  After removing the protective covering from the acrylic I use lukewarm water with a couple of drops of dishwasher liquid to clean both sides.  After rinsing, I dry it with a microfiber cloth and then immediately use for framing.  I find this works quite well as long as you have a kitchen sink big enough to hold the shorter side of the acrylic.  The microfiber cloth is mildly damp and can then be used to remove any of the residual dust specks.

[Robcat]

 If you are shipping them, you should be more concerned about breakage with glass. Even routine transporting (i.e. in your car) can be a little nerve wracking depending on your roads (and driving habits  .
Rob P

[neile]

The Novus #1 polish Neil mentioned very effectively neutralizes the static charge on acrylic.  Makes it very easy to get those last little dust motes (aka "flubs") out when you are closing the frame.

You need to vigorously polish both sides.  I use blue Scott shop towels to do most of the wet polishing, then switch to a clean, dry old t-shirt to remove the last almost invisible residue from the dry surface.  All the while buffing vigorously.  Lay a large bath towel on your work surface to protect the acrylic surfaces.

What Bill said. Although I use wypall cloths instead of blue Scott shop towels.

Neil