Mounting large prints

[Jgburton1]

I am struggling with mounting large prints, say 40"x 60" or maybe longer panos. Is canvas the only option for successful DIY mounting of large prints? I have tried to mount on gator foam using miracle muck and BC Timeless and just cannot get a  perfect job, bubbles, small creases etc. I have been printing on Ilford gold and Epson premium luster. Is this just an impossible undertaking or have any of you been able to mount successfully using DIY methods. Has anyone done this using the large Seal press. I've always read that inkjet prints are not compatible with the old hot press mounting.

Jim Burton

[bill t.]

In order to glue prints to Gator your media must have the ability to expand and contract a bit.  RC papers are essentially rigid and simply don't have any give and take, so localized stresses will result in kinks.  Also RC is not water-based adhesive friendly.  Canvas is the easy answer, it's easy to glue mount canvas up to very large sizes well past 40x60. I mount huge prints all by myself with nothing more than a foam paint roller and a cardboard tube, takes very little time.  With a some experience rag based papers can also be reliably glue mounted.

If you really want to use RC papers at those large sizes you should look around for somebody with a rare 48 x 96 vacuum heat press.  Or buy one yourself for around $14K.  And yes you can dry mount very large pieces a bit at a time, but your success rate will go down fast for anything that requires more than about 2 x 2 presses with RC papers, or more than about 2 x 3 presses with paper.  Best to have a press with a 26 x 34 platen for that, like a Seal 500-TX or such.

While it's true that canvas doesn't have the absolute gamut or potential snap of RC prints, on large prints it is arguably wise to tone things down a bit.  IMHO the kinds of tonality you can easily get from canvas is just about right for mural work.  And coated canvas has the huge advantage that you don't need glass or plex for protection, that alone makes a big difference in cost and weight.

[Jgburton1]

Thanks Bill I mostly have been trying to mount the Ilford gold which is fibre based, I tried the luster thinking it might be more forgiving. I do love the canvas and it is easy to mount in variety of ways. Just wanting to be able to mount the finer papers.
Thank you

Jim

[bill t.]

To continue, inkjet prints are very compatible with dry mounting.  The only problem I have ever had dry mounting inkjet prints was with an old press with an out-of-control mechanical thermostat.  At temps above about 220F RC papers will delaminate and bubble, but all inkjet media can take typical 180F mounting temperatures for very long periods of time, including immediately reheating previously pressed areas when mounting in sections.  If you are considering buying a drymount press it's best to make sure the thermostat is working properly, and the preferred presses are the ones with electronic thermostats like the Seal 500TX, 550TX, etc.  Many of the old presses with mechanical thermostats will swing widely in temperature, including up into very high temperatures.

[dgberg]

I mount canvas to gatorboard with miracle muck and like Bill have excellent results. You can do this yourself to about any size and no equipment required.
I use my Seal laminator with print mount ultra when mounting paper prints and canvas to Dibond. It is a cold process so a hot roll laminator is not required if you go shopping for one.
You could look at a Drytac 24" laminator for under a thousand bucks if that is wide enough. I have no experience with a hotpress but a very big difference in cost and floor space.
One thing very nice about the combination hot/cold roll laminators is the ability to use the hot lam product "Printguard Luster" over canvas. What a great finish! The blacks just pop.
Its not for every canvas image as it is a little on the shiny side.

[scrinch]

I have never done anything that large but have had good results with Scotch Positionable Mount Adhesive PMA.  It can be applied just using a hard plastic squeege. 

[Darrel]

Has anyone tried Lamin-All adhesive for mounting on dibond etc.  Wondering on how it would work.  Thanks

[bill t.]

I tried Miracle Muck on dibond.  LaminAll and Muck are very close cousins.  It held, sorta, but it was all too easy to peel off.  I would be very uncomfortable selling that combination.  I think you would want a solvent based adhesive for dibond.

[stretchdcanvas]

Have you tried self adhesive foamcore and a "Big Squeegee"?
A few years ago I broke down and bought a laminator.  It's the bees knees!
Mounting to 4x8 Dibond is an absolute breeze.  It takes longer to clean it than to mount it.

[bill t.]

A big ol' print on a skinny piece of Dibond truly is the bees knees!  Looks great on those designer walls, oh yeah.  Slice off the print flush with the edge, epoxy some cleats on the back.  It just doesn't get more contemporary than that.

But I basically chickened out on Dibond.  When I get a piece o' crud between the print and the Gator, I just stamp it down into the Gator and/or canvas with various pointy tools.  That doesn't work with Dibond, and crud knows where I live.  It's so nice not to have to be fastidious!     OTOH, Dibond would probably be a cheaper alternative to what I do now.  Hmmm.

[enduser]

I know what Dibond is but in my neck of the woods it comes in 8' x 4' sheets.  How is it cut and by what sort of business?  My collection of tiny swatches of dibond also have gently curved corners - how is this done?  Thanks in advance for advice.

[dgberg]

I cut my 4 x 8 sheets with my sliding table saw and a special aluminum cutting blade. Sort of messy as my dust system does not pull the plastic/aluminum chips very well, but still works great for me.
Fletcher-Terry sells the Model 3000 and 3100 and both are ideal for this and many other substrates. If you plan on doing alot of this and have deep pockets their Alta 99 automatic model is the best on the market.
The Sooper Rounder is the tool that punches the corners off. Sold by Harbor Sales in Md.USA.  It has 2 radius settings and can cut up to 3 or 4mm of material thickness.
Retails for $408.92
If you do not want to invest in any of this equipment first check with your Dibond dealer and ask if they have a cutting service. The problem with having a sheet precut into certain sizes is their is no turning back,your pretty much stuck with them.
If you can determine your sizes and know they will not change then this approach should work.
Check around your area for local cabinetmaker and woodworking shops. As long as they have the proper blade to cut aluminum you might be able to talk them into it.
Lastly and probably your best bet is to check out any sign shops as these guys are most likely to have all this equipment.
If you stick with Gatorboard, although not ideal you can cut it with a sharp razor blade and a purple ruler to protect your fingers.

[Jgburton1]

Thanks to all for your replies. Getting a laminator is tempting. Looks like there are many choices on the market. Getting a 44" laminator that is not to large(and expensive!) may not be doable though. My work area is on the third floor and hauling a 300 lb. machine up there is not an option. Has anyone tried the Phoenix 44" ?
Jim

[dgberg]

Have not tried the Phoenix one but Metacafe has a nice video about it on Youtube. I purchased my hot/cold 44" Seal on Ebay for $2750. So deals are out there. Look at the Drytac,26,34 (70 pounds) and 44" (234 pounds) units. They can all can be table mounted without stands. They are all cold roll only.

[bill t.]

For $15 a sheet my distributor will saw Dibond, plex, or whatever into as many pieces as I want.  Joe does a terrific job, hits the dimensions spot on, edges clean as a whistle, all sides perfect 90 degrees.  But the guy who sometimes substitutes for Joe is another story entirely, he takes full advantage of the distributors +-1/4 inch policy and it's pretty clear he would rather be doing something else.

So you take your chances.  But the basic rule for all distributor cutting is...don't make the print until you've got the substrate or glazing.  I slip Joe some pretty decent tips throughout the year, investments like that are worth it and it's cheaper than having an employee or a table saw.

If you plan to hand-feed 44" prints on stiff substrates, try to get a laminator that's a little wider than that, maybe 50".  It's tricky to feed sheets through a laminator perfectly straight, and the very edges of the rollers don't pinch as hard as the center parts.