better format to save to than .jpg?

[mbalensiefer]

When I save files as Tiff, I get the Photoshop options to Save Image Pyramid (default position: off)
--> Do I ever save in Image Pyramid?

I also have the option to save Pixel order in:
 Interleaved (RGBRGB)
 Per Channel (RRGGBB)
--> Which one is optimal, and why?

Thank you again!
Mike

[DeeJay]

Each time you save a file at 9 jpg you are effectively compressing the file by 1 so yes you are degrading it and it accumulates. It doesn't just stay at 9.

Save in TIF.

Layered PSD's take longer to save and open.

The only time I save a jpg is for web and email. Or if a client specifically needs it.

[MrIconoclast]

I am currently using PS5 and saving as TIFF files.

If one uses a product such as LightRoom, my understanding is that it saves only instructions on how to process the RAW file, not the actual changes.  Therefore, a image saved in LightRoom would be very small compared to a TIFF file since one is only saving processing instructions, not the actual image.   Correct?  Of course, then, one must have LightRoom to duplicate the  modified image later, correct?

[AFairley]

I am wondering why not just to save as a PSD?  I doubt that the format is going anywhere in the near future...or the intermediate future, not sure about the distant future, of course....  And can't any photo application worth using read PSDs now anyway?  Like I said, just wondering.

[mbalensiefer]

I know that PSD images do not carry thumbnail information viewable in native Windows. That is one detraction.
Tifs have viewable thumbnails.
Tifs load faster into Photoshop than PSDs do, as well. Go figure.

[stewarthemley]

Most people would accept that for the best results: shoot raw, edit in LR or C1 and output in profoto, 16bit, tiff for further work (if necessary) in PS. When you have finished the image, if you have worked further on it in another program, save the master in 16bit profoto tiff. If you complete the image in LR or C1, there's no need to save it outside those programs as they retain all the work you have done and you can output it in whatever format suits your needs at the time. Of course, you should save backups of the raws and the LR of C1 info files!

[kiefers]

I would say EPS, so that it would not blur even if you zoom it to the highest level. It would cost you some space though as compared to your regular jpeg, png and tiff but it would definitely be worth it for important shots.

[Nick Rains]

I would say EPS, so that it would not blur even if you zoom it to the highest level. It would cost you some space though as compared to your regular jpeg, png and tiff but it would definitely be worth it for important shots.

Err, no.

EPS is for vector based artwork like text and graphics, and has nothing to do with scaling up pixel based or rasterised images. Scale an image and it will pixelate regardless of the file format.

Best practice for the OP is to stick to raw and use Lightroom or Aperture. Then you don't really need either tiffs or jpegs except as a delivery format for clients or web. Jpegs make a perfect delivery format, just don't edit them or anything else. If you need to use the subtle tools of Photoshop then 16 bit tiff or psd is the correct format to use and then save. Worrying about file size is pointless, just buy a bigger HD, $70 for 1TB covers a lot of images.

[Abdullin]

Michael,

For storing and reediting purposes, keep your images in PSD or in the compressed TIFF file format.

For publishing, PNG is a good alternative to JPEG because it does not lose its quality after resaving.