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Author Topic: Printing on Metal  (Read 18207 times)

plui

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Re: Printing on Metal
« Reply #40 on: March 09, 2011, 07:17:14 pm »

The InkAid supplier in Canada (vistek) has a warning note regarding gum buildup on a printer's guide rollers... Has this been a problem with anyone? Im using an epson 11880 and would love to start printing on aluminum sheets as has been described here but am concerned about this gumminess and also whether or not a larger plate (24x36) of .050" (1.3mm) will be too heavy and fall through the straight path and onto the floor. Has anyone tried printing on the thicker sheets of .050" or .064"? or is printing on the thinner material (then mounting) more practical?  btw cost I've found for 4x8 feet of .050" untreated uluminum is $140 cdn.
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dgberg

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Re: Printing on Metal
« Reply #41 on: March 09, 2011, 10:00:51 pm »

Check your max thickness on the 11880 it may be a 1.5 mil max like my smaller Epsons.
Have had no issues with the Inkaid but have only printed several dozen. I got sheets of.028 aluminum cut into photo sizes and have 2,3 and 4mm Dibond I will be laminating prints to. The.028is just too thin without a backer. I also adhesive a standout wood frame on the dibond backer so the extra thickness is needed.
If you can print on the thicker material you may not need a backer.

ednazarko

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Re: Printing on Metal
« Reply #42 on: March 11, 2011, 01:06:05 pm »

Gum buildup?  Haven't had a problem, and there were some weeks when I'd run 20 or 30 prints.  I can't figure how that would happen unless the coating wasn't totally dry when the print was run.
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orchidblooms

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Re: Printing on Metal
« Reply #43 on: December 14, 2012, 07:24:06 pm »

Check your max thickness on the 11880 it may be a 1.5 mil max like my smaller Epsons.
Have had no issues with the Inkaid but have only printed several dozen. I got sheets of.028 aluminum cut into photo sizes and have 2,3 and 4mm Dibond I will be laminating prints to. The.028is just too thin without a backer. I also adhesive a standout wood frame on the dibond backer so the extra thickness is needed.
If you can print on the thicker material you may not need a backer.

dan - i am getting closer to running some aluminum  thru my epson 4900...

if you can please...  how do you 'laminate' the printed aluminum to the 4mm diabond?

thank you

phil
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dgberg

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Re: Printing on Metal
« Reply #44 on: December 14, 2012, 11:51:21 pm »

Phil,
Roll laminator with Seals print mount ultra.
Works super on the Booksmart metal. Also works on custom metal that we had cut locally.
It just has to be flat with no crimped or slightly rolled edges.
If you have any like that I would not run them through the printer and risk a head strike.
Don't forget to set your platen to it's widest,otherwise you risk that dreaded head strike you hear mentioned so often.

I believe this image may have been put up some time ago so my apologies ahead of time.
For those new folks interested in trying something new.
Locally purchased stainless steel.
This sample is 16" x 20"

The process.
Stainless primed with one coat of Krylon primer.
Scuff sanded with 600 grit trimite paper.
2 topcoats of Krylon metallic copper. (The closest color I found to accent the rust.)
2 coats with foam brush of Ink Aid receptive coating. Needs to dry at least overnight.)
Front flat path feed on Epson 3800.
Let dry 2 to 3 days depending on how much black ink is in the image.
Prepare 16" x 20" multiply backing board.
Sand and topcoat edges and back with 2 coats catalized conversion varnish.
Apply Print Mount Ultra 2 sided adhesive with roll laminator.
Lastly peel back liner and apply metal print to multiply panel,through laminator.
Has to be perfectly aligned as it cannot be trimmed if your off abit.
I pull the liner off and lay the metal on the multiply making sure the edges are perfectly aligned. Burnish it down with my gloved hand then run it through the laminator.
On this image I have not put any protective coating over the print.
Just really like the natural finish and it gives me a chance to see how it holds up without a coating.
Flip it over and screw on the aluminum hanging channel.

The second photo of same image B@W on metallic paper with gloss vinyl over the print only. Centered and attached to brushed stainless dibond with 3M PMA.
This has the aluminum 3mm edge moulding to set off the sides of the dibond. Not the full frame like another I have shown on another thread.

These all look really great but the TIME required just makes them too expensive to sell,at least here in se Pennsylvania.
« Last Edit: December 15, 2012, 08:48:43 am by Dan Berg »
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