You don't really use a "glue" to mount the adhesive to the lens, you use a double sided optically clear adhesive (Seal optimount for example). It's the same stuff you'd use to facemount a photo to a piece of acrylic. Essentially, the process goes like this: a) adhere the adhesive to the lens (using a roll laminator) b) line up your interlaced print with the lens so that the interlaced "stripes" are perfectly parallel to the lens in the sheet c) run the aligned image through the laminator again to stick it down. Also, for lenticular prints, you really need more than 2 view points. If you only use two views then the image will only look 3d from a very narrow viewing angle (wherever your right eye sees one view and you left eye sees the other view). Somewhere on the internet there is a program that allows you to take a stereo pair and expand it to more view points (can't find a link right now, sorry) but, in my opinion, it's too time consuming to use and the results aren't that good anyway. A better way to capture images for 3-d lenticular printing is to photograph multiple views or your subject (i've used anywhere from 8 to 120), moving the camera perpendicularly to the direction you are shooting between each shot (like a dolly shot with a movie camera). You can then interlace these images together. The benefit to this is that no matter where you are viewing the image from, each eye will see a slightly different view of the subject.