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Author Topic: 3D Lenticualar Print - Inkjet?  (Read 9207 times)

bernhardAS

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3D Lenticualar Print - Inkjet?
« on: December 25, 2010, 09:24:10 pm »

Has anyone Experience with printing Lenticular Pictures and gluing the foil on top?

Does it work?
What software do you use?
What glue do yuo use?
How do set it exact?

I have currently an Epson 3880.

I am mightyly impressed by the new Fuji real 3D Camera which makes two 10 Mpix Stereo Pictures, with each shot. It would be extremely cool to be able to process and print the result as well.
 
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hsmeets

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Re: 3D Lenticualar Print - Inkjet?
« Reply #1 on: December 26, 2010, 05:31:07 am »

no exprience with making these but lenticular lens prints never impressed me (as the fuji display also does not impress), however viewing them through a stereosviewer does a much better job, much more visual quality, much more immersion, better sense of depth.
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Huib

griffithimage

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Re: 3D Lenticualar Print - Inkjet?
« Reply #2 on: January 05, 2011, 04:06:31 pm »

there is an excellent place in North Carolina that sells the lenticular material that you can glue on top of your inkjet print. They will also print your lenticular for you and glue the "lens" on top if you don't want to. I'm sorry, I can't remember the name but I'll go through my old emails to see what I can find.

a.lorge

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Re: 3D Lenticualar Print - Inkjet?
« Reply #3 on: January 05, 2011, 05:55:31 pm »

You don't really use a "glue" to mount the adhesive to the lens, you use a double sided optically clear adhesive (Seal optimount for example).  It's the same stuff you'd use to facemount a photo to a piece of acrylic.  Essentially, the process goes like this:  a) adhere the adhesive to the lens (using a roll laminator) b) line up your interlaced print with the lens so that the interlaced "stripes" are perfectly parallel to the lens in the sheet c) run the aligned image through the laminator again to stick it down.  Also, for lenticular prints, you really need more than 2 view points.  If you only use two views then the image will only look 3d from a very narrow viewing angle (wherever your right eye sees one view and you left eye sees the other view).  Somewhere on the internet there is a program that allows you to take a stereo pair and expand it to more view points (can't find a link right now, sorry) but, in my opinion, it's too time consuming to use and the results aren't that good anyway.  A better way to capture images for 3-d lenticular printing is to photograph multiple views or your subject (i've used anywhere from 8 to 120), moving the camera perpendicularly to the direction you are shooting between each shot (like a dolly shot with a movie camera).  You can then interlace these images together.  The benefit to this is that no matter where you are viewing the image from, each eye will see a slightly different view of the subject.
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William Morse

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Re: 3D Lenticualar Print - Inkjet?
« Reply #4 on: January 06, 2011, 12:12:02 pm »

I have a client that I print for who is doing this, I think it's 32 views on one print, the lens is about 100 LPI (I think). If you are still interested, I could pass your info along to him.

The prints I've seen of his work range from cheesy to stunning!

Bill


You don't really use a "glue" to mount the adhesive to the lens, you use a double sided optically clear adhesive (Seal optimount for example).  It's the same stuff you'd use to facemount a photo to a piece of acrylic.  Essentially, the process goes like this:  a) adhere the adhesive to the lens (using a roll laminator) b) line up your interlaced print with the lens so that the interlaced "stripes" are perfectly parallel to the lens in the sheet c) run the aligned image through the laminator again to stick it down.  Also, for lenticular prints, you really need more than 2 view points.  If you only use two views then the image will only look 3d from a very narrow viewing angle (wherever your right eye sees one view and you left eye sees the other view).  Somewhere on the internet there is a program that allows you to take a stereo pair and expand it to more view points (can't find a link right now, sorry) but, in my opinion, it's too time consuming to use and the results aren't that good anyway.  A better way to capture images for 3-d lenticular printing is to photograph multiple views or your subject (i've used anywhere from 8 to 120), moving the camera perpendicularly to the direction you are shooting between each shot (like a dolly shot with a movie camera).  You can then interlace these images together.  The benefit to this is that no matter where you are viewing the image from, each eye will see a slightly different view of the subject.
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JamesLynn

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Re: 3D Lenticualar Print - Inkjet?
« Reply #5 on: March 17, 2011, 12:07:28 pm »

I was able to create a pretty good 3D lenticular printing using my Epson Artisan 50.  Here are the steps.

  • Buy the 40 LPI 8" x 10" lens from microlens.com
  • Use Photoshop to interlace my 3D design
  • Print the interlaced picture on high quality Epson photo paper
  • Use 3M double sided clear adhesive to laminate the lenticular sheet to the picture, or alternatively, microlens sells their lens with adhesive backing.
For the interlacing part, you can follow the instructions on these lenticular printing tutorials.
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FramedLives

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Re: 3D Lenticualar Print - Inkjet?
« Reply #6 on: March 18, 2011, 06:50:42 pm »

I'm currently using microlens.com 3D 60lpi lenses with 24 degrees of viewing angle. You can order them in different formats with double side clear adhesive.

To attach the lens over the print I highly suggest you buy a cold laminator. Registering the lenses with the actual print is a critical part. It is not impossible to do it by hand and you can still have outstanding results, but it is e very long operation and not practical to print big numbers. To properly align a lens over a print and glue it using a laminator takes to me around one hour per picture.

Anybody has a suggestion on how to speedup the process? A frame or something else? :-)

Another critical factor is the printing resolution in ppi. I print with a Canon PIXMA 9500 Mark II with native resolution of 600ppi. This allow me roughly 10 images per lens producing a depth of 10cm behind and 10cm in front the lens. Using an Epson printer at a native resolution of 720ppi would increase the depth by roughly 20%. Pay attention at the difference between ppi and dpi, it is mandatory you know it well :-p

Photoshop is good but not enough to create very good interlaced image. I ended up writing my own software implementing parallax correction. It is not impossible but requires you to know exactly how a lenticular lens is working.

I hope this helps,

Giovanni

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