Assuming you want to shoot film, I'd go with a Sinar P. Modular, cheap-ish, one of the best view cameras made. Accessories are readily available. I have a P that was my fathers. I've been shooting it since 1990. I added bellows, wide angle bellows, extension rails, hoods, masks, binocular viewer, binocular reflex viewer, 8x10 format changing kit, etc etc. For less than $2000 US you can have an amazing, versitile set up. Or go even cheaper and get a Sinar F2, although they are flimsy feeling.
With my P I can shoot anything: Macro, portraiture (which is what I mainly shoot), landscape, architecture, from 8x10 down to 6x6 if you get the proper back.
Lenses: I like Rodenstock and the Caltar II-N branded Rodenstocks. I have some Schneiders now, and the jury is still out on them. For portraits in 4x5 I use anything from a 135 Symar-S, a 150 Caltar II-N, or a 210 super symar. For 8x10 portraits I use a Geortz Dagor, which is like a 280mm. For architecture, strictly a hobby, I use a 115 6.8 Grandagon MC, a 90 F8 Super Angulon, and a 120 F8 Nikkor, which is one of the best lenses every made.
Shoot color and take it to a lab. If you find you don't like large format, sell it for ewhat you paid for it.
I like to scan. A V700 or V750 makes decent 11x14's from 4x5. I use the Epson for proofs, really, or to provide a reference for pre-press. I, or a client, has drum scans made of final selects.
One thing: Get a polaroid back. Use it with the Fuji films, and learn that way. Instant feedback. Like digital but you have an artifact to keep in a shoebox for 20 years.
As an aside, I had a project to shoot architecture, commissioned by my father. I bought an Arca Swiss F line and leather bag bellows. Perfect kit. The entire kit (lenses, dark cloth, camera, rail, film holders, meter, polaroud back, 6x9 back, fuji film, loupe etc fit in two Tenba Metro Pack shoulder bags. Very managable for working from a car or a Rock 'n' Roller. I didn't use the Sinar because it is too big and heavy for an extended project.