Coating prints on expensive stock

[Rocco Penny]

Has anyone coated 100% cotton rag with a spray on finish?
How does it last?
I love textured fine art, and have my best results for bright flowers and such using it.
Hahn WTurner310 is really nice.
I don't want to use glazing.
Has anyone used a spray like this?
I welcome any advice, or insight.
Thank you

[dgberg]

Rocco,
I have coated several. I have a sample in front of me of Moab Entrada Rag Bright 300. I used the Clearjet Fine Art-Semigloss from the spray can. The first coat soaked in that you could not even tell it was coated. The second coat started laying on top. The third coat was starting to cover nicely but still had about 25% of the print that had that flat look. The forth coat gave a full wet look over the entire print and was where I stopped. These were all very heavy coats. (A pass both directions) 8 1/2 X 11 print. Estimated I used a third of a can or 4 oz. or about $3.50 for the one small print. The finish is beautiful. The texture of the paper is still visible through the finish. In some instances this may work very well for you. I have had about 30 students handle this print with their bare hands and it still looks new. Thats about the only test of durability and longevity I have for you.

[Rocco Penny]

That's what I was thinking,
just how deeply the finish settles in, and if that does wonky stuff-

My 93 year old Grandma, who only ever loved 1 man, led a life that included work work work,
has settled into a nice home in the suburbs of SF, the only place she lived, until 1990 something
She likes the photos I make and wants some nice flowers.
She'd have it framed and all, but I'll give it to her so she doesn't have to unless she wants to.
Just another thing for her to do you see?
Thank you Dan,
Rocco

[Dward]

As Dan says, the first coat soaks in leaving the paper indistinguishable from the original.  I use Premier Print Shield, and only one coat, so that the original look and feel of the paper remains.  The velvety texture of the paper can still be damaged by fingernail scrapes, etc., but the print is pretty well protected from the vagaries of casual handling.   Multiple coats change the look of the paper, which may be fine for your application.   But it will definitely look and feel different from the original.

I've also rolled ClearShield Type C (for canvas) on various fine art papers, like the heavily textured Innova Cold Press Art, for customers who asked to have a non-glass framed print.  It takes two coats (the papers are very thirsty), and changes the look of the print in a major way, but it works fine.  Colors are more saturated, and of course, the texture is lessened greatly.

David V. Ward, Ph. D.
www.dvward.com
David V. Ward Fine Art Photography

[Gemmtech]

It is as Dan says, the 1st coat soaks right in and you can't tell you coated the print (Sometimes I leave it alone) then the 2nd coat will start to show signs of clearcoat, add the 3rd, 4th and 5th coat depending on what you like.  I mostly use automotive finishes, which I have been using for 30+ years.  I can't tell you if they are "Archival" since I'm not an expert, I just know that it will last at least 30 years and still look new!   I'm not concerned if my prints last 1000 years, just a couple 100  

[KenBabcock]

Automotive finishes?  LOL

Which ones?

I'm happy with a few different finishes I use (mainly Black Diamond satin and a few Krylon products), but I'd be interested in playing around and trying some automotive finishes for personal use to see what it does.

[Gemmtech]

Automotive finishes?  LOL

Which ones?

I'm happy with a few different finishes I use (mainly Black Diamond satin and a few Krylon products), but I'd be interested in playing around and trying some automotive finishes for personal use to see what it does.

I'm a PPG pimp      I figured since I use automotive finish when I make furniture or even bathtubs from wood and they last and they hold up well on boat parts (complete boats use a marine varnish) why wouldn't it hold up well on photographs?  There are times I even do a hand rubbed acrylic urethane job on certain photographs; YES, I even wet sand and rub out my photos with rubbing/polishing compound.  I haven't found any cons to automotive finishes other than they are very expensive and toxic.  I restored quite a few cars in my day and came up with the idea of using the auto finishes on my furniture and cabinetry (had a family cabinetry/furniture shop) I used them on photos as a young kid and it worked so I continued.  I'm not producing museum quality art so I don't worry about white cotton gloves and how to insure my prints last for 1000 years.  I realize there's lots of discussion on this forum regarding "archival" this and that, I don't know what will last for how long.  I know the great paintings from the past 500+ years have all cracked, and required maintenance to keep them looking good, none are "Original"  

[BradSmith]

Gemmtech,
re: acrylic urethane......I've seen one very large print, probably 4ft x 6 ft that I think was polyurethane coated.  It was stunning.   But I've never seen any references to how it is done.  What do you use and how do you do it?  
Thanks
Brad

I'm a PPG pimp  ....... There are times I even do a hand rubbed acrylic urethane job on certain photographs; YES, I even wet sand and rub out my photos with rubbing/polishing compound.

[Gemmtech]

Gemmtech,
re: acrylic urethane......I've seen one very large print, probably 4ft x 6 ft that I think was polyurethane coated.  It was stunning.   But I've never seen any references to how it is done.  What do you use and how do you do it?  
Thanks
Brad

The process is rather long and if you want I will type it in detail, but the succinct version is I use PPG Deltron or Vibrance clearcoat.  I'll mount the print to hardboard, then I'll spray the print with a few coats of lacquer first as a "primer" then I'll spray 4 coats or more of acrylic urethane over the lacquer.  I'll wet sand (wrap sandpaper around FLAT BLOCK) the clearcoat with 1000-2000 grit sandpaper using dishwashing liquid in water (keeps the grit away) Then I machine buff with 3m rubbing compound, followed by polishing compound, then final glaze.  I get a lot of compliments on it and they do last for a very long time.  Naturally I don't do every print this way, but sometimes a photograph "begs" for it!     I clearcoat the entire board so as to eliminate any moisture issues.  I then will custom build a frame or leave it flat.  There are even times I put an image behind glass.  I also do poured finishes, but I'm afraid these wil crack sooner than the other finishes, but they look great now.  It's just another form of "art".  I've never been one of the Sheeple and believe something has to be done a certain way because a certain group of people say it has to.................................