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Author Topic: 1Ds questions  (Read 1907 times)

Paul Caldwell

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1Ds questions
« on: June 10, 2003, 04:47:05 pm »

Hello Sergio,

I don't know why the center point would not be locked in, however if you can replicate that issue over and over, I would consider talking to Canon on that.  Canon seems to be slightly burdened with focus issues as of late.

The color matrix quesiton,  am not sure if I understand it.  The color matrix is only going to show a change in the Canon software.  It only applies to the output color setting after the raw conversion.  Capture One is going to use its own profiles under the color management settings.  If you open a raw file in the Canon software and then alter the color matrix, you will see the image alter, however Capture One, doesn't even use the same terms.  It will see the WB setting.  The color matirx only applies to the output profile of the raw.  Thus with Capture one, you will pick that in the "destination Profile setting".  

The "tone" curve in the camera is tricky and as of yet I haven't even tried to mess with that.  I don't like the way you have to access it and really in my work, I don't often have a situation where a custom tone curve would help. I have worked with the tone curves in the Canon view software and again don't like it, preferring instead the Capture One curves, which are much more traditional.  

Paul Caldwell
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sergio

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1Ds questions
« Reply #1 on: June 11, 2003, 10:33:20 pm »

You are right Jonathan, I will make a well done test of this and take note of my procedures and results. The test I did was with a 50 1.4 and firmly hand held, but it is to premature to draw conclusions without proper testing. Thanks.Sergio.
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Jonathan Wienke

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1Ds questions
« Reply #2 on: June 13, 2003, 02:03:16 am »

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What makes the manual focus even more futile is that when you really need to shoot at f1.4 there's not enough light to focus by...
My thought is that there is a narrow range of twilight where manual focus is faster and more accurate than autofocus, where autofocus simply doesn't work, but there is still barely enough light to see to manually focus. But for most of my shooting (astronomical photography is not my passion; I do landscapes) autofocus gives me images that look crisp at 13x19" or even larger, approaching the resolution limit of the camera. The only gripe I have is that occasionally the camera wants to focus on something other than what I want it to. I have a button on my 1Ds programmed to activate only the center focus point while it is pressed (it is labeled with an icon depicting a square dot inside of a larger square). If the autofocus is going off on wild goose chase, I switch to one shot mode, press this button, half-press the shutter with the thing I want focused center-frame to get the focus how i want it, reorient the camera to get the desired framing for the shot, then press the shutter the rest of the way. This sounds complex, but can be done very quickly with practice.
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sergio

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1Ds questions
« Reply #3 on: June 10, 2003, 03:12:46 pm »

I have several questions to ask 1Ds owners.

1) I did a wide open shot of a diagonal piece of text and placed the autofocus zone in a particular letter. the autofocusing point used was the center one in One Shot mode non automatic. The camera seems to be focusing a couple mm into the foreground. I redid the test this time using the next autofocus zone to the left and it was sharp where it focused. Has anybody experienced this?

2) When switch between different color matrix modes in the menu, all the pictures (raw) come out exactly the same. Is this supposed to only affect JPGs? (sorry if I missed this in the manual, but there is a huge amount of info there).

3) How, why and what can be done exactly with the tone curves when they are altered and programmed in the camera?
(I'm using Capture One, not File Viewer.) I would really appreciate some help in this one, since I wouldn't want to mess on this and then have a job screwed up because of incorrect settings.

Thank you very much for your help and advice. And Michael thanks a lot, Capture One is indeed the best in quality and workflow for this camera. Converting, organizing, and sending of low res to clients is very fast and simple.
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Jonathan Wienke

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« Reply #4 on: June 11, 2003, 01:47:05 am »

The color matrix and tone curve setting are only applied to JPG's by the camera. RAW files are just that--raw image data off the sensor. The white balance, color matrix, tone curves, sharpening settings, etc. are stored in the RAW file as tags, and Canon's RAW converter will use these as the default, but you are completely free to ignore the "camera recommended default processing settings" if you wish. I'm not familiar with Capture 1, but Adobe Camera RAW will use the tagged white balance settings as the default if the "as shot" white balance option is selected. I assume Capture 1 works similarly.

Regarding the autofocus question, was the camera on a tripod, or hand-held? If hand held, bear in mind that you could easily move a few mm between focus lock and the actual exposure. Also, how far away was the test target from the lens, how many times did you repeat the test, and what lens did you use? What was the ambient light level--the shutter speed, aperture, and ISO of the test shot(s)? Unless shooting macro, a mm or 2 +- on the focus isn't going to be very relevant in most real-world shooting situations. If you plan on picking those king of nits, be sure you have the camera and the test subject on a tripod or otherwise secured against any movement, and use either a remote shutter release or else one of the time delay drive modes to eliminate any possibility of camera movement. In general, I have found the 1Ds's autofocus to be faster and more accurate than focusing manually; the biggest problem I have observed is occasionally focusing on something other than the intended subject. I enabled the option to show the active focus points in shot previews; this will tell you what the camera thought it focused on.
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samirkharusi

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1Ds questions
« Reply #5 on: June 12, 2003, 11:56:06 pm »

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The test I did was with a 50 1.4
Aha! With all this stuff about focus issues I also tested all my lenses (5 primes and 2 zooms) for autofocus (Gosh! Don't we get bored at times!). My conclusion was that the 1Ds autofocusing is not quite up to the demands of lenses faster than f2.8. Basically at infinity and shooting at f2 or wider there were some very minor variations in focus, seemingly random, between frames re-autofocused one after another. With the 50/1.4 it was always possible to get better focus shooting manually. But, frankly, this is academic. I had to use the Angle Finder C to even come close to pretending that I can focus better than the autofocus. Without the extra magnification (truth be told, the 2.5x magnification is not quite enough) manual focus would also end up with random errors. What makes the manual focus even more futile is that when you really need to shoot at f1.4 there's not enough light to focus by... I was testing the focus in bright sun, ISO 50, 1/8000, f1.4, about as bizzare as one can get. For astrophotography I tried the viewscreen "I" (clear center with crosshair) so the idea was that in that case I'll focus manually. Doesn't work either :-( On moonless nights (when I shoot) you can't see the crosshairs! So your eye accommodates and there goes the focus. Besides, I haven't found a lens that's usable at wider than f2.8 for that type of photography. Maybe the focus was off? OK just kidding. Moral of the story? I use autofocus when there's enough light and use the infinity-index mark when there's not. I note where the index mark should be before the sun sets. My (cheapo) zoom lenses have a mind of their own, especially at the wide side, but then they deliver what I expect of them. Would never think of bothering with manual focus with those.
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