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Author Topic: Mounting archival prints  (Read 24739 times)

papandre

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Re: Mounting archival prints
« Reply #20 on: February 07, 2014, 07:19:40 pm »

Clear as glass!
Thank you
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BarbaraArmstrong

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Re: Mounting archival prints
« Reply #21 on: February 08, 2014, 06:22:16 pm »

As soon as I posted my last reply, I thought about the new presentation technique, which I haven't seen a real-life example of, and have only read about, that involves face-mounting a photograph to acrylic.  Is Diasec the name used for this?  I understand that one cannot use inkjet printed photographs for this method (I think because they don't adhere adequately).  Someone with experience with this could chime in here.  Anyway, my comments about not allowing a print/photograph to come into contact with overlying glass or acrylic obviously applies to the traditional framing that I thought you had in mind (as you were talking about matting, also).  I have seen a nice old photograph carelessly stuck into a frame behind glass with no matt, and the photograph actually became stuck to the glass in sections (no way to separate the two) -- painful to see. --Barbara
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hugowolf

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Re: Mounting archival prints
« Reply #22 on: February 08, 2014, 08:07:24 pm »

As soon as I posted my last reply, I thought about the new presentation technique, which I haven't seen a real-life example of, and have only read about, that involves face-mounting a photograph to acrylic.  Is Diasec the name used for this?  I understand that one cannot use inkjet printed photographs for this method (I think because they don't adhere adequately). 

Inkjet prints work just fine for face mounting to acrylic, at least pigment inks.

Brian A
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papandre

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Re: Mounting archival prints
« Reply #23 on: February 09, 2014, 02:08:17 pm »

In case you are considering face mounting inkjet prints, you might want to look at printing directly on solid material. I've heard with new printers it's possible now to print with archival inks on surfaces like acrylic, glass or metal. hence you might as well print directly a reverse image on the back of a transparent surface. Never done it, but i think it's worth researching.
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dgberg

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Re: Mounting archival prints
« Reply #24 on: February 09, 2014, 03:16:09 pm »

Well if you have the money.
A DirectJet 13x24 flatbed printer is $23,000 and a full sheet machine can be $60,000 and more.
You can facemount to acrylic with a $100 printer and a manual laminator all for under $500.00.if cost is a consideration.
Flatbed DTG printers (direct to garment)are hot right now. Printing directly to the wearable product in place of dye sublimating it. Brother makes a nice DTG printer line that starts at $20,000.
Almost any pro level flatbed printer is going to be expensive.
« Last Edit: February 09, 2014, 03:28:58 pm by Dan Berg »
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Daniel G

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Re: Mounting archival prints
« Reply #25 on: December 14, 2014, 04:22:35 am »

Its an old topic but a good one!! 

Problem with mounting the print touching the glass is it doesn't allow for air flow or allow the print to breathe. Moisture/condensation can (will!!) cause the print to stick to the glass ruining the print also possible causing mould etc.

I also wouldn't use any type of heat activated mounting. You could possibly use cold rollers using pressure sensitive film to mount to aluminium but it would be forever mounted. (but this seems to be the way a lot of large work is getting mounted these days)

Someone touched on it earlier that you could have the prints mounted using japanese tissue also. (this is the method i would look into given that they are "real" prints not ink jet prints). I've never seen this done but have read about it.

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MHMG

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Re: Mounting archival prints
« Reply #26 on: December 14, 2014, 05:24:52 pm »

Its an old topic but a good one!!  

Problem with mounting the print touching the glass is it doesn't allow for air flow or allow the print to breathe. Moisture/condensation can (will!!) cause the print to stick to the glass ruining the print also possible causing mould etc.



The sticking issue is true for traditional photographs made with gelatin emulsions.  Gelatin undergoes what material scientists refer to as the glass transition temperature  (Tg) at about 24C/75F and reverts to a gel-like state when humidity goes above approximately 70%RH for extended periods of time. Gelatin's Tg value is highly moisture dependent (i.e., lower RH requires higher temperature, and vice versa). This 75F/70%RH temp/RH level is very commonly encountered in typical real world conditions, especially during summertime periods. All photographs that have ever stuck to the photo frame glazing have been subjected to such a real world temperature and humidity cycle event. The adhesion then takes place when the gelatin goes back to below Tg temp/RH conditions and the gelatin returns from the rubbery gel state back to a relatively brittle and dry polymer state. Gelatin is after all a very close chemical cousin to traditional hyde glues used in traditional wood working.

The room temperature/moderately high Relative humidity value that triggers the Tg transition for gelatin photographs is not necessarily true for other media, so not all works of art on paper will stick like traditional photos to glass.  Many but not all(e.g., the "swellable polymer media" which are pretty much no longer on the market) inkjet media  are not going to stick to glass like traditional silver gelatin photographs. Adding a spray coat like Premier Print Shield which is an acrylic polymer will tip the odds as well much in favor of not sticking.  However, there may be cockling and mould damage at prolonged high humidity levels with all works of art on paper, coated or not. That said,  artwork can also be protected from high humidity cycles in most typical print viewing environments and thus kept safely away from humidity-induced issues by creating sealed microclimates such that seasonally induced high moisture spikes inside the picture frame are eliminated.  Said microclimate methods take more discussion than can be reasonably described here, but I do it all the time, and with prints on display for over two decades, I have had no issues whatsoever with placing photographs in direct contact with glass or acrylic. This is my preferred method with inkjet media in these modern times because I like the borderless, no over mat look for most of my photographs. The visual effect can be very similar to "front facing" techniques like Diasec yet retain some of the surface texture of the fine art media which I often find preferable to the totally slick glossy appearance of Diasec. The prints stay flat, no cockling, no hinge mounting techniques necessary, and the picture framing costs are lower. :)

cheers,
Mark
http://www.aardenburg-imaging.com
« Last Edit: December 14, 2014, 06:03:05 pm by MHMG »
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