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Author Topic: LED lighting  (Read 5825 times)

Derryck

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« on: May 03, 2010, 06:13:29 am »

As the title of the topic suggests I am interested if any photographers here are starting to use LED lights? I recently purchased the cheap Chinese versions that are similar to Litepanels but about 1/4 of the price. The downside is that they need to have gels in order to balance the color temp (I'm guessing that the real Litepanels are color corrected). Apart from that though they put out a pretty decent amount of light, use very little power, are cool to the touch and aren't all that heavy.

I have like a few other photographers been doing a bit in video and currently editing a product video I did for Herman Miller on the 5D II as well as some stuff for McDonalds and a local peanut butter brand. So having these kind of lights is great because I can use them for both still (mainly food and interiors) and video work.

Below is a couple of images of the light itself and a still from the TVC I shot the other week. Before you ask about the vegetables in the background it's important to note that Chinese consumers of peanut butter mainly use it in noodles etc and not on toast.


Derryck.
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Streetwise

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« Reply #1 on: May 03, 2010, 06:58:26 am »

Very interesting. Is that a 500w unit?

I'm particularly intrigued by these kits from ePhoto. Again, a knockoff of the spiderlite, but really versatile for small product work.  How much did you pay for your LED light?

Dave
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Derryck

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« Reply #2 on: May 03, 2010, 07:40:00 am »

The light pictured cost $250US and the larger 40cm x 40cm one cost $370. The power rating for these units is 30w and 60w respectively but I'm guessing that they put out the equivalent 250w and 500w.
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JonathanBenoit

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« Reply #3 on: May 03, 2010, 08:29:53 am »

Quote from: Derryck
The light pictured cost $250US and the larger 40cm x 40cm one cost $370. The power rating for these units is 30w and 60w respectively but I'm guessing that they put out the equivalent 250w and 500w.

They have a very low CRI from what I've read - around 70 i think. I've never used them, but I would imagine they have a lack of control when it comes to lighting accessories. I don't think I would be comfortable shooting interiors with these.
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CBarrett

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« Reply #4 on: May 03, 2010, 09:07:16 am »

Give me an LED that can spot like a Dedo or Bang like Profoto with accurate color variation and yeah... maybe.  Perhaps the stylists can use these for doing makeup with?

-CB
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Morgan_Moore

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« Reply #5 on: May 03, 2010, 05:56:14 pm »

Quote from: CBarrett
Give me an LED that can spot like a Dedo or Bang like Profoto with accurate color variation and yeah... maybe.  Perhaps the stylists can use these for doing makeup with?

-CB

here is a controllable version ..
http://www.freshdv.com/2010/04/beam-me-up-zylight.html

and I beleive litepanels offer variable colour temp (at a big price)

I use my 'photon beard highlight' a lot with my nikon D3 as high shutter speeds - that is a properly balasted flouro of daylight balance - again $$$ and not very powerful at all - gets round shutter synch speed on bright days

I would be very intereted in lights especially ones that work with both video and high stills shutter speeds

more links please !

Again I saw a nab preview (maybe litepanels?) on camera light that is both fixed LED and cranks them up (flashes them) in bursts - this is the future IMO


In a world of affordable digicams there has to be a new way sink cash - it would appear Zylight is it !

S
« Last Edit: May 03, 2010, 06:06:59 pm by Morgan_Moore »
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Sam Morgan Moore Bristol UK

Derryck

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« Reply #6 on: May 03, 2010, 08:57:33 pm »

Here are some links.
Color Temp adjustable LED
Flood to spot adjustable
Fresnal spot LED

I'm interested to hear if anyone is using the Litepanels, are they as color accurate as the manufacturer makes them out to be? If they are then they're probably worth the money given the advantages of LED.


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GregShapps

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« Reply #7 on: May 03, 2010, 09:13:38 pm »

I use the Litepanels Bi-Color 1x1's - they are cool and all but they are a bit tricky to actually dial in the color you want especially without a color meter.   There is no markings on the temp dial so you don't have any real clue where you are at.   Same goes for the Dimmer - no makings.  

These things aren't cheap by any means either - especially when you have to gang them up 2x2.


I have been looking at some other LED fixtures from FloLight & Cool Lights - these things are dirt cheap but require correction
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JonathanBenoit

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« Reply #8 on: May 03, 2010, 09:33:29 pm »

Quote from: Derryck
Here are some links.
Color Temp adjustable LED
Flood to spot adjustable
Fresnal spot LED

I'm interested to hear if anyone is using the Litepanels, are they as color accurate as the manufacturer makes them out to be? If they are then they're probably worth the money given the advantages of LED.

It depends what you are using them for. I dont think they have any advantages for lighting interiors. Like I said earlier, their color rendering index is very low. Interiors are not color accurately lit. As an architectural photographer, this immediately rules out LED lighting as it stands today.
Its tough being an architectural photographer. The technical aspects of the photography are higher than any other type of photography. We are extremely critical of everything. Accurate lighting is paramount.
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AndyF

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« Reply #9 on: May 04, 2010, 10:28:23 pm »

The quality of the "white" light might be very different from a low cost panel.   When you think of white light for photography, you're assuming the light contains approximately the same energy at most of the visible wavelengths, so all the colours in the scene or person you're photographing will come out accurately.  Sunlight, flashes (not LED flashes...) and hot lamps will give you a full spectrum of light.  But white LEDs aren't "white".  They're blue or ultraviolet plus yellow phosphor.  There are very large areas in the spectrum they give off with little energy, so a colour that's in that area might appear darker, or even colour shifted.  

There aren't many web pages showing spectral charts of white LEDs.  See this page, about 3/4 the way down at "White LEDs" http://edcfeatures.blogspot.com/2006/12/on...-and-color.html  Any colour in the valley or before or after the peak will be muted, any colour near a peak will be brighter than normal.

Try this test: get an XRite or other colour chart from a photo store (don't make one by printing it), and compare photos of it taken in clear sky sunlight, with a flash, with a cool-white compact flourescent, and the LED panel, or whatever other lights you have (try a white LED flashlight, although that's an unfair substitute for a white LED photo light).  Use a raw file or jpg with the camera colour style set to the kind of light you're using.

If you have an image editor with a white balance picker, open each one, set the white balance from the white square.  Then compare them onscreen.  You'll be disillusioned by some lights!

I haven't updated this comparison in a long time but will once some LEDs get cheaper.  http://www.pbase.com/andy_fraser/image/89490008  This whole comparison is "anchored" to white by the top left white square, shot with the Canon flash.  RAW files were used for all shots.

Andy



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Derryck

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« Reply #10 on: May 05, 2010, 06:43:36 am »

Thanks for all the comments. When I have a moment I'll shoot some comparison images of a colour chart using my Profoto's, Arri Tungstens and the LED's and see how the colours reproduce after neutralising the white point.

My hope was that they'd be a handy way to throw in some additional fill when shoot food or interiors, but maybe not. I still think they're ok for video use once they've had the correct amount of colour correction in the form of gels.

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Hywel

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« Reply #11 on: May 05, 2010, 07:50:20 am »

It occurred to me that if one could produce a panel using red, green and blue LED's whose emission spectra matched fairly well to the pass bands of the dyes used in the R G B components of the Bayer matrix in the cameras that one could achieve rather good and flexible colour rendition. Colour temperature could be dialled in by changing the ratio of the R, G and B LED pixels in the light bank, and if the emission matches the camera sensor filters you wouldn't care about the gaps in the spectrum.

Does anyone make a "tunable RGB matrix" LED light?

  Cheers, Hywel.

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nicolaasdb

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« Reply #12 on: May 06, 2010, 03:39:30 am »

I am using LED lightpanels for my reef tank (salt water) but don't think I could use them for photography...color is very cold... I have been trying to replace my safe light to LED but my wife makes me return them all the time.... because of the color temp.

I hope that they come out with LED....would be great to light models and see exactly what you get without melting their faces!!
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Morgan_Moore

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« Reply #13 on: May 16, 2010, 04:18:35 am »

I happened to buy a 4 $5 ring led ring lights (run off 4AAs)

Eden then had a night time experience the next day - had to give them a try

D3 at 1600ISO f2.8

not very MF !

I like the way they are moddeling lights, cheap so you can have very many, can see them giving kick in long exposure MF images too

We have two to the left, one to the right and a rim light all held by parents and passers by..

« Last Edit: May 16, 2010, 04:26:08 am by Morgan_Moore »
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Sam Morgan Moore Bristol UK

Lightbox

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« Reply #14 on: May 16, 2010, 05:19:28 pm »

Another brand pushing this technology fiy -


LEDZ


.
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Derryck

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« Reply #15 on: May 16, 2010, 08:18:37 pm »

Below is a quick comparison which shows there's definitely a difference between the colour being reflected back from the colour card. Obviously the LED's aren't going to be something that I'll be using for still photography in the future.

Lighting in order from the top. Profoto Acute/D4 head, LED light panel and Arri 150w Tungsten.

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AndyF

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« Reply #16 on: May 17, 2010, 08:54:22 pm »

Quote from: Derryck
Below is a quick comparison which shows there's definitely a difference between the colour being reflected back from the colour card. Obviously the LED's aren't going to be something that I'll be using for still photography in the future.

Lighting in order from the top. Profoto Acute/D4 head, LED light panel and Arri 150w Tungsten.
Really interesting comparison!  Good to see the results.

The browns and greens have quite a shift in their colours and would be horrible as skin tones.

Andy
« Last Edit: May 17, 2010, 08:54:50 pm by AndyF »
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JonathanBenoit

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« Reply #17 on: May 17, 2010, 11:32:04 pm »

Yea. Im pretty sure he has the arri and LEDs flipped.  The arri should be better then the LEDs since their CRI is higher, as long as there they are the only light source. Who knows what testing setup he has done. Actually, I think the CRI on the arri should be higher than the Profoto. I might be wrong on this though.

Edit* After looking at this further there is an obvious warm color cast on the second set. I am assuming now that the LEDs where tungsten color balanced.  I think we need more information from the OP
« Last Edit: May 17, 2010, 11:36:19 pm by JonathanBenoit »
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Derryck

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« Reply #18 on: May 18, 2010, 02:01:25 am »

These were labeled correctly. All images were shot in a dark studio. I didn't have a lot of time to set this up so only one head was used from the right hand side at an angle greater than 45 degrees to the camera. Shot on a 5DII with a 90mm shift lens. Shot at f11 @160 for the Profoto then different shutter speeds for the LED and Arri. Exposure and white balance was based on the grey patch four in from the bottom left. Processed using Adobe Camera Raw.
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