Best Vinyl for z3100

[thomasmoran]

Have to do a few Vinyl piece for my gallery store front and instead of shopping it out I would prefer to order up a roll of Vinyl and do it myself. What do you guys use and recommend? I'm looking for the stuff that allows you to put it against the glass and then just peel away the backing. Does that kind of substrate go through the z3100 and if not what should I be using??

Thanks again for your help.

Thomas

[Randy Carone]

You don't give a lot of details but IJ Technologies makes a nice white matte (DGVNR) that will print well on the HP. The material is waterproof and when printed with pigment ink the printed graphic will be waterproof. How long do you need the graphic to last? This material will only be able to be put on the outside of the glass, so you should spray it with clear coat to increase the scratch resistance and UV stability if you are looking for some longevity. Can you give us more info on the intended application and expectations?

[thomasmoran]

Hi Randy, I'm looking to put my logo and gallery hours up on our glass front door and I figured the best stuff to use is what I call "self adhesive vinyl". I guess i'm looking for the stuff people use to do car wraps and things of that nature. Is this the right route to be going or is there something else that I should be looking at?

Thanks again

Thomas

[pulley]

Thomas, as Randy stated, make sure you protect your print with either a clear coat or uv laminate. The vinyl you need for your printer is not the same as the vinyl used for wraps or even signs. There are two types of vinyl, cast and calendered. Without getting into the characteristics of the two types, what you want for your aqueous printer is a coated vinyl that accepts water-based inks. IJ technologies, Lexjet, Sihl and others have the vinyl you need. Also, you could use adhesive polypropylene. I have HP Everyday adhesive polypropylene loaded in my Z2100... the latest firmware has the profiles.

[Randy Carone]

Cast vinyl used for wraps is printed on Solvent and/or Eco-Solvent printers and is always laminated. You may want to consider having someone with a printer/cutter produce your logo then contour cut the white vinyl away. Another option - Have the logo mirror printed on clear adhesive backed vinyl, laminate white vinyl over the image, cut out the image and install it on the inside of the window, readable from the outside, but protected from damage by the glass.

[EvoM]

I have HP Everyday adhesive polypropylene loaded in my Z2100... the latest firmware has the profiles.

Pulley, how do you find the HP? I have tried a generic brand but the gamut is small. Does the HP give a good gaut range say like a HP ID Prem gloss?

Evom

ps. I gloss laminate and the final result is way better than sign writers solvent prints and the colour doesn't fade as quick and blacks are stronger! I have an A frame out front and still looks good after a year.

[dandeliondigital]

Hi Evom,
I just printed a job on my Z3100ps on HP Universal Adhesive Vinyl, and it came out well (much better than the older HP ColorFast Vinyl on the HP 2500CP of yesteryear).

I noticed you mentioned Gloss lamination. How do you do that and what do you use for it?

The HP vinyl is a very matte product.

Thanks, and so long for now, TOM

Pulley, how do you find the HP? I have tried a generic brand but the gamut is small. Does the HP give a good gaut range say like a HP ID Prem gloss?
ps. I gloss laminate and the final result is way better than sign writers solvent prints and the colour doesn't fade as quick and blacks are stronger! I have an A frame out front and still looks good after a year.

[EvoM]

Hi Evom,
I just printed a job on my Z3100ps on HP Universal Adhesive Vinyl, and it came out well (much better than the older HP ColorFast Vinyl on the HP 2500CP of yesteryear).

I noticed you mentioned Gloss lamination. How do you do that and what do you use for it?

The HP vinyl is a very matte product.

Thanks, and so long for now, TOM

Giday, yeah it's matte and can go a bit chalky out in the elements too so best to laminate I think. Plus the laminate helps black & saturation look.

I use a cheap, manual cold roller (2 rolls, one on top of the other with a crank handle).

I bought a roll of gloss lamination then using a large, oversize board, I first attach a small leading edge of the laminate to the board, fold back then run through the rollers with the print underneath removing the release paper backing as you go. The laminate, which is bigger that the print is then trimmed off the receiver board. We tried a few "receiver boards" & settled on a polyprop thick board (actually an old sign).

Best to have an extra person to help but I have seen sign writers do this as a one man setup. But they arn't as fussy as I am!. The main issue is always dust etc. being laminated too so a clean workspace etc is important!

Hope that helps, Evom

[dandeliondigital]

Hi Evom,
I'll have to try that. Sounds promising.

Thanks, and so long for now, TOM

[pulley]

Here is what I use for lamination. Works great and you can't beat the prices! Most all signshops, including mine, has one or more Big Sqeegees for quick laminated prints.
http://www.bigsqueegee.com/


EvoM, the HP polypropylene gives me excellent prints with greater detail than I can achieve with subbed solvent prints. Most of my HP prints are laminated with lustre for indoor prints for reduced glare.  I do have some HP laminated prints that have been outside for over 2 years with no signs of fading or de-lamination.