We cannot see if the pictures are critically sharp, but with a "macro" lens they should be... and it seems to be a very cost-effective system.
With higher magnification you get an increase in image circle, so it is possible to cover FF on Medium format with small format lenses... and I might try my Micro-Nikkor 200 on MF sometime, perhaps with the Copal 3 shutter from my Sinar/Rodenstock Macro Sinaron 300.
To photograph 3 flowers in the wind, do you shift to make three exposures to avoid any flower being split between pictures?
Where are you?
If you are local, perhaps you could help/inspire me me set up my H3D11-50/P3/Apo-digitar Macro 120 which should produce some good results.
What's in focus is critically sharp. Only problem I had is when my eyepiece diopter changed accidently and my glasses were a wee bit dirty, everything looked blurry. Remember with the Panasonic G1 you are focusing on the screen at up to 10x mag. I also use fairly wide aperatures, 5.6 or so, so I do not get or want depth of focus. The overall look of the image is most important and for my work that means a pleasing bokeh.
In the three flower picture, only the end two have parts that are in focus. The center flower is out of focus, as it is below the other two. It is difficult to find flowers which all line up with the same depth of focus.
It would be nice to avoid splitting a flower being split and sometimes that works out. But I have shot with a flower being split with not much wind to move the flower, and you can't tell in the final print. The three exposures can be made very quickly, a couple of seconds. It takes practice to move the camera without moving it out of alignment.
I am in Mackinaw, Illinois, USA so can't help. Don't know anything about medium format except that your cheapest accessory probably cost more than my entire kit. What is shown above is around US $1000. Lots of fun for the money.
I have shown 3:1 ratios but using two shifts gives you about 2:1. This is easier compositionally to find subjects that work. It still gives an interesting format probably more suited to the macros. The 3:1's work better for landscapes. I tried the shift macros to see if I could get it to work and I can. Someday I will run into a situation where the shift maco would be ideal. Since the special equipment required is small, just the adapter, I usually have it with me.
Here is an example where very little is in focus. I did not like it at first but it is growing on me after I have had the print around for a couple of days. The lens is only about 3"" (75mm) above the ground. These are emerging Hosta leaves.