Hasselblad H4-50 / H4-50MS and Architectural Photography

[pixjohn]

I am testing the Hasselblad  H4-50 /  H4-50MS next week and wanted to see if anyone has shot with the system yet? I am going to test H4-50, H4-50MS and Phase One P45+. I am coming from shooting a Leaf Aptus 75 and need a new system.

[HarperPhotos]

Hello,

Why change from the Leaf Aptus 75?
Personally I am still very happy with mine after 4 years.

Cheers

Simon

[rhsu]

I am testing the Hasselblad  H4-50 /  H4-50MS next week and wanted to see if anyone has shot with the system yet? I am going to test H4-50, H4-50MS and Phase One P45+. I am coming from shooting a Leaf Aptus 75 and need a new system.

Quite frankly, from a Hasselblad user, stick with P45+ or per Simon says...   .  But if you are going to use the H3/4-50 as a DSLR, perfect.  Take the latter and mount onto an arch-tech camera, I suggest you test it out rigurously and carefully.  I've tested the 50mp when 1st came out.  But because of power source and having to need to tether to my 13" Mac on location... no thanks.  I stuck with the CF39.

[bwphoto]

Please post your results next week, I am very interested in this as well.

[Dick Roadnight]

I am testing the Hasselblad  H4-50 /  H4-50MS next week and wanted to see if anyone has shot with the system yet? I am going to test H4-50, H4-50MS and Phase One P45+. I am coming from shooting a Leaf Aptus 75 and need a new system.

I intend to go straight to the H4D-60, and do not expect to upgrade from it (I am 60)... but the H4D-50MS would be better for shots where you can do without single-shot, and would give better DOF than stitching a 60.

[Dustbak]

Not entirely Dick, you would normally make a single shot for each multishot. There is always the risk something moved in the multishot the single shot image would give you the opportunity to blend it in where parts in the multishot image have gone wrong. The same idea can be used when you deliberately make an image where parts of it are moving (people, trees, foliage, etc..).

Good practice means always accompany MS raw files with an exact copy that has been shot single shot.

[bwphoto]

I am trying to decide between the H4D-50 and the 50MS.  I have an opportunity to expand into art repro work and feel the MS would be a better option for details.  Anyone using it for this type of work?  Also can you use studio flash with MS or does it have to be continuous light like a scanning back would need.  I though I saw a post here a while back comparing the 50 and the 50ms plus another back, anyone recall this?

Brian

[David Grover / Capture One]

I am trying to decide between the H4D-50 and the 50MS.  I have an opportunity to expand into art repro work and feel the MS would be a better option for details.  Anyone using it for this type of work?  Also can you use studio flash with MS or does it have to be continuous light like a scanning back would need.  I though I saw a post here a while back comparing the 50 and the 50ms plus another back, anyone recall this?

Brian

Hi Brian,

Perhaps this will help...

http://www.hasselblad.com/user-showcase/the-tate-london.aspx

Many institutions have chosen Multi Shot cameras simply because of the excellent reproduction qualities.  

David.

[Dustbak]

I am trying to decide between the H4D-50 and the 50MS.  I have an opportunity to expand into art repro work and feel the MS would be a better option for details.  Anyone using it for this type of work?  Also can you use studio flash with MS or does it have to be continuous light like a scanning back would need.  I though I saw a post here a while back comparing the 50 and the 50ms plus another back, anyone recall this?

Brian

I use it for fabric a lot. Huge difference! I use it with flash (currently working with it while I type this). A friend of mine uses multishot for art repro, he would not want to be without (neither would I). If you should stuff that doesn't move from a tripod (or if a large part of what you shoot doesn't move) there is nothing that compares to multishot.

[bwphoto]

Hi David, thanks for the link!

The other question I had was regarding lighting with a multi shot back.  There are 4 exposures so does that mean 4 flash pops or do you have to use continuous lighting?

Thanks for the info.
Brian

[Dustbak]

There are 5 pops. 1 sort of 'reference' shot, followed by a short 'bleep' after that 4 pops follow. You can set the duration between the pops. You do need flashes that are pretty consistent but I have used it even with Nikon SB800's so you can get away with a lot.

[pixjohn]

Lets just say its no longer a reliable piece of equipment. I would not invest in another LEAF back with all the sh*t I have had to deal with. It worked great when it worked, but just took to much time to get an image to even capture. (read other threads)

If these backs don't do the trick for the $$$ I will just invest in a canon 5d II and 17 tilt lens. But I do like my first time playing with the true focus on the H4

If PhaseOne had a real working Lens falloff correction, I would also consider a phase back. Phase told me they are working on it but I will not buy based on promises again.

ANYONE SHOOTING WITH AN H4-50??? I have not seen one Architectural image.

 

Hello,

Why change from the Leaf Aptus 75?
Personally I am still very happy with mine after 4 years.

Cheers

Simon

[David Grover / Capture One]

Lets just say its no longer a reliable piece of equipment. I would not invest in another LEAF back with all the sh*t I have had to deal with. It worked great when it worked, but just took to much time to get an image to even capture. (read other threads)

If these backs don't do the trick for the $$$ I will just invest in a canon 5d II and 17 tilt lens. But I do like my first time playing with the true focus on the H4

If PhaseOne had a real working Lens falloff correction, I would also consider a phase back. Phase told me they are working on it but I will not buy based on promises again.

ANYONE SHOOTING WITH AN H4-50??? I have not seen one Architectural image.

John,

Pop over to hasselbladdigitalforum.com and post in the Prospective Purchasers section.  I am sure you will get some response.

David

[tho_mas]

If PhaseOne had a real working Lens falloff correction, I would also consider a phase back. Phase told me they are working on it but I will not buy based on promises again.

Capture One 5.1 - light falloff correction is there. Either the "light falloff" correction, the "vignetting" tool or LCC based falloff:

LCC shot:
[attachment=21017:lcc1.jpg]

color shift corrected:
[attachment=21018:lcc2.jpg]

color shift and light falloff corrected (100% correction here):
[attachment=21019:lcc3.jpg]

Of coruse, you could also use LCC based correction with the 645 camera, not just with the tech camera.

Sharpness falloff is also available.

[pixjohn]

That's what I am looking for, but I seemed to have  missed  it in the Phase Software. Not only did I not see it, the Phase rep at PMA has no clue it exists?

[David Grover / Capture One]

A similar function also exists in Phocus.

It can be applied for tethered captures, or equally to captures from a CF card.

[jonstewart]

Nobody mentioned that Capture one 5.1 does ASYMMETRICAL light falloff correction, although tho_mas implied it!

Very handy when stitching. No more CF's I think?

[tho_mas]

Nobody mentioned that Capture one 5.1 does ASYMMETRICAL light falloff correction, although tho_mas implied it!

actually C1 doesn't provide asymmetrical light falloff in the sense that you can shift the center point of the light falloff manually (or that you type in a numeric value for shift or so).
But it provides LCC based light falloff (i.e. based on a "white shading" shot)... which is much better anyway.

[tho_mas]

That's what I am looking for, but I seemed to have  missed  it in the Phase Software. Not only did I not see it, the Phase rep at PMA has no clue it exists?

strange as it is not new in 5.1. It was introduced in an older version.

[jonstewart]

actually C1 doesn't provide asymmetrical light falloff in the sense that you can shift the center point of the light falloff manually (or that you type in a numeric value for shift or so).
But it provides LCC based light falloff (i.e. based on a "white shading" shot)... which is much better anyway.

Sorry for the unintended semantic imprecision. I meant LCC correction. Much, much better!

Cheers tho_mas,
Jon