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Author Topic: Spraying Canvas  (Read 6410 times)

na goodman

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Spraying Canvas
« on: March 19, 2010, 08:50:02 pm »

Ok, I finally had to have a small spray booth constructed in the studio to spray canvas. I'm using an HVLP gun with one of the water based coatings but need to install an exhaust fan. Does anyone have any suggestion on what I should look for. I admit, this is one area I am not well versed in. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
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dgberg

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« Reply #1 on: March 20, 2010, 05:25:18 am »

This is what I have but it may be overkill for you as it is the explosive proof model.
I had a cabinetry business for the last 23 years and my explosive proof fan was required by the insurance company because of the laquers we sprayed. They are sold By Grainger(Mail order/internet) just google them.
All different sizes and they may even have the standard fans. If you spray ANY solvent based finishes you will need the enclosed motor or explosive proof units. I think the 24" Dayton was around $800 10 years ago.
As soon as you go solvent based you open a big can of worms. Lights would be the next issue. No plug in electricial outlets ,light switches or standard lights when spraying solvents. My switches are all outside the spry booth and I have a very expensive explosive proof light system.
All this is a non worry for you with all the water based solutions and would be what I would suggest. Depending on what your budget is you can buy a prefab spraybooth with fan,filter and lights. Sentryair makes some real nice ones,not sure of the prices.
« Last Edit: March 20, 2010, 06:19:08 am by Dan Berg »
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na goodman

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« Reply #2 on: March 20, 2010, 07:56:20 am »

Thanks Dan. But, the booth is already made and is working well. I had read about the explosive one but really did think that would be overkill since I am working with water based coatings and will never be using solvents. Any other suggestions?
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ternst

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« Reply #3 on: March 20, 2010, 08:12:02 am »

Grainger is still a good source for exhaust fans. They have all sizes. It is a good idea to get one that is much larger than you think you need. The larger ones don't cost much more - although if you have a small booth you probably won't need a very large one.

You may also need a filter in front. I built a plywood box to house the fan and added some rails across the front that fit a standard size house filter - I just use the cheapest kind of filters. This will keep things from building up on the housing and wires. The spray booth that I built to spray canvas in is about 12 x 14 feet and I can hang up and spray six 44" x 6-7 feet tall canvas prints at a time - normally the first of three spray coats will use up the first filter; often I will go through two filters for each set of canvas prints that I spray, but the filters are less than a buck each at Wal Mart so no big deal (for smaller runs of canvas prints sometimes a single filter will last the entire process of three coats). I also turn the exhaust fan on before I start spraying to clean out any dust in the air, and leave it on until each coat dries. You also have to open a window or door elsewhere in your room to feed the fan with fresh air. Some guys also filter this incoming air but I have not found that to be necessary - but if you have a really dusty room that is a good idea, although much more of a pain - it all depends on how clear your surrounding environment is.
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dgberg

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« Reply #4 on: March 20, 2010, 08:19:29 am »

Good info from Ternst.
Grainger has plenty of standard fans,just look through the list. I also use the $1.00 furnace filters in front of my fan. It really works and is very cost effective.
« Last Edit: March 20, 2010, 08:20:02 am by Dan Berg »
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na goodman

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« Reply #5 on: March 20, 2010, 08:29:21 am »

Thank you both, that is just the information I was looking for. I will also look at using the filters. Thanks again. I will look at the Grainger fans. Dan how often do you replace the filter?
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dgberg

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« Reply #6 on: March 20, 2010, 01:46:00 pm »

When I was spraying furniture,daily. Now with glamor II maybe every other week.

Wayne Fox

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« Reply #7 on: March 20, 2010, 07:55:50 pm »

Quote from: na goodman
Thanks Dan. But, the booth is already made and is working well. I had read about the explosive one but really did think that would be overkill since I am working with water based coatings and will never be using solvents. Any other suggestions?
You may still want to consider an explosion proof fan, since this means it is very well sealed from spray build up.

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na goodman

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« Reply #8 on: March 20, 2010, 08:03:47 pm »

Thank you, I'll take a look at them.
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marcsitkin

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« Reply #9 on: March 22, 2010, 03:52:35 pm »

This may be simpler than you already have, but it works well for us.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTe...e.aspx?id=29677

It's an easy and cheap booth that you might want to look at.
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Regards,
 Marc Sitkin www.digitalmomentum

bill t.

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« Reply #10 on: March 22, 2010, 04:44:34 pm »

Quote from: marcsitkin
This may be simpler than you already have, but it works well for us.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTe...e.aspx?id=29677

It's an easy and cheap booth that you might want to look at.
Yes that's the best kind of booth for canvas.  Another good feature of a canvas spray booth is easily changeable surfaces to catch any spray that flies past the sides or top of whatever is used to support the canvas.  Pieces of carved up cardboard boxes are good.

I personally spray outside whenever it's sunny and the temperature is above 46F.  I have a big"A" frame built out of 2 x 4 inch lumber...build time = 30 minutes.  One side faces the sun, the other is always shaded.  I can hang a 4 x 8 foot sheet of prints taped on foamcore on the sunny side for forced drying, then transfer it to the shady side for spraying.  (Do not Glamourize a surface exposed to direct sunlight.)  I don't know why, but I have almost no trouble with bugs, dust, and other airborne nemeses.  Knock on wood.  If I get a piece o'crud in the paint, I wait for the paint to dry.  Usually I can remove it under magnification without damage, but if necessary I can invisibly repair surgical scars with a few dabs of coating and a fine brush.
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Ken

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« Reply #11 on: March 31, 2010, 12:02:48 pm »

Great information from everyone. Thank you!

I too am brand new to spraying canvas with HVLP. My Fuji Mini-Mite 3 arrived this morning, and I am impressed with its fit and finish (just like my Fuji lenses!).

I'm printing on Canson ArtistCanvas 390 and Breathing Color Lyve Canvas with an Epson 7900.

I have samples of Clear Shield Type C Satin, and PremierArt ECO Print Shield Satin , Gloss and Matte. Do you have any recommendations about those or other coatings?

What recommendations do you have about dilutions; spraygun adjustments, handling and cleaning; drying times; application density; angles,  etc.?
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dgberg

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« Reply #12 on: March 31, 2010, 04:40:55 pm »

Quote from: Ken
Great information from everyone. Thank you!

I too am brand new to spraying canvas with HVLP. My Fuji Mini-Mite 3 arrived this morning, and I am impressed with its fit and finish (just like my Fuji lenses!).

I'm printing on Canson ArtistCanvas 390 and Breathing Color Lyve Canvas with an Epson 7900.

I have samples of Clear Shield Type C Satin, and PremierArt ECO Print Shield Satin , Gloss and Matte. Do you have any recommendations about those or other coatings?

What recommendations do you have about dilutions; spraygun adjustments, handling and cleaning; drying times; application density; angles,  etc.?

My canvas workshop  

bill t.

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« Reply #13 on: March 31, 2010, 04:54:08 pm »

For the Clearshield, use it straight out of the bottle.  Spray so each application looks wet right after it goes on.  If the surface looks kind of textured-satiny, you probably need to open the valve a bit or move the gun a little slower.

Note that after the first thirsty coat you need to apply thinner coats since the canvas won't be absorbing paint.

If you are spraying vertical, don't spray so much that you get sags.  And if vertical, note that the canvas will absorb paint a lot faster than the backing or any tape you might be using to hold the prints.  Be careful of runs off the tape, clips, etc.  Since I always spray with the prints almost vertical, if the edge of the support tape is near the image area I sometimes pre-paint the tape with a 1" brush to increase it's ability to hold onto paint.

The basic skills for spraying are to keep a consistent distance (8 inches MAX, about 200mm) and even harder, to keep a constant speed.  I used to time how fast I was spraying with a metronome, 1 click per foot at 60-per.  Of course now I'm way too cool to do that.  However, I still make 4" (100mm)  marks above and below the prints to make sure I advance evenly across the print.  Yes you can also watch the famous "wet edge" but that is somewhat too subjective IMHO.  On alternate coats I interpolate between the marks.  I only spray up and down, the marks help me keep it even.

Newbies ALWAYS pull the gun away from canvas during the stroke.  Either have somebody watch or shoot videos (from the side) of what you're actually doing, it will help a lot getting that distance nailed down.

I was way too timid with the HVLP at first.  Open the air up all the way, and crank out the needle at least 1+ turn.  Use speed to control the amount of paint, and remember, it should look wet but not satin-like, and not be running.  And he who hesitates mid-stroke will surely get paint runs.  Watch how much paint you are using, I like about 10 to 15 ml per square foot on the first coat (which is pretty Red Line), and about 7 to 10 on subsequent coats.  And always spray a test pattern on some dark material before attacking the canvas, you may need to nudge the nozzle a bit (by rocking the pattern ring back and forth) to get a really even, elliptical pattern.  And wipe the nozzle with a small brush right after each use, being careful not to get paint into the air holes.

Let's see, and when you pour the paint into the can be sure it isn't going "glug glug glug" which will impart air into the paint which can sometimes cause hiccups.

And if you get some crud in the paint, wait until it is dry to remove it, but always remove all the crud from each pass before going on to the next.  On the last coat surgical dust-removal scars can be repaired with a fine brush and a dab of coating.

And wear a dust mask, seriously.  You'll regret after a few days if you don't, just like I did.  3M #8511 masks cost $2 at Lowes and are my favorite for non-solvent spraying.

That's about 1/5 of what you need to know.  For the rest, consult the school of hard knocks.

edit...or preferably enroll in Dan's workshop.  Hi Dan!
« Last Edit: March 31, 2010, 04:57:06 pm by bill t. »
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dgberg

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« Reply #14 on: March 31, 2010, 05:55:37 pm »

Thanks for the plug Bill. A thank you as well for tackling all those issues. If you saw me type with 2 fingers you would understand my short response. Also the reason I have my 800 number. For really in depth discussions I much prefer people calling to discuss the business personally. Beats typing really long paragraphs back and forth.
« Last Edit: March 31, 2010, 07:22:37 pm by Dan Berg »
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Picture Salon

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« Reply #15 on: April 06, 2010, 02:13:51 pm »

We have an HVLP spray gun and use Glamour II from Breathing Color. Definitely use a mask and filter for the exhaust.
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Tom Crozier

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na goodman

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« Reply #16 on: April 06, 2010, 04:11:47 pm »

I am all set up and have been spraying with the new booth, hvlp gun, am vented and wearing a mask. Results are great. I have done testing on three different finishes and after much debate and samples and feedback from clients I have decided on Daige Rollaguard. It does provide UV protection, enhances matte canvas, I really like the finish and the viscosity and they are a great company to work with. I have worked with them for years using their other products. And yes, I was using BC but for my purposes I really like the results from Daige.
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