High speed photography

[BertramPaul]

Accidentally removed the photos.







Here's an updated version, with some shots having the flash firing twice in one shot:

High Speed Photography

All taken with the Nikon D90 and SB600 at 2 and 3 seconds shutter time and the flash at manual 1/32 and 1/64 power.

Changes in capturing were made by adding a second microphone and moving the mike closer and further from the object.

Thanks for watching.

[Jeremy Roussak]

Very entertaining! I tried something like that a long time ago but my results weren't as good as yours. How do you trigger the flash?

Jeremy

[fredjeang]

Hi Paul.

I really like the idea and the process.
I think it has to be worked more.
You reveal the trick and it is not necessary. It would be absolutely great if you find a way to do it without your hand and needle and background. Or, if you really want to reveal them, it has to be more engaged in that way, but here, it does not work very well because it looks you did not want them but they are present in the frame.
So I think it is more a matter of isotating the explosion ( as if it was a supernova ) and you will need a projectile (gun, arch etc..) , o integrating the hand and needle in the all process on a more decided way.

But great path, I think if you push the experiments further you will reach very good results.

Cheers,

Fred.

[GrantKaye]

There are some excellent high-speed photographic experiments on the blog site, of Reno, NV photographer Dan Newton (and also some great landscapes too).  

http://www.liquidinplastic.com/2009/10/high-speed-stuff/



You should check his work out, maybe some inspiration there?

[Dick Roadnight]

A shutter-beam is the obvious trigger, you can trigger by breaking a beam of light or by sound, and they sell delay boxes as well.

What is the delay between firing your camera and the start of the exposure?

If you use a DSLR, can you shorten it by locking up the mirror?

Might you have to use two shutter-beams, one to trigger the shutter, and one to trigger the flash?

How short an exposure do you need to eliminate ambient?

Can you shorten the exposure by using the flash in manual mode (or by using a simple manual flash).

What is the duration of the flash?

Can you shorten this by using a big flash at low power?

I have a couple of shutter-beams, and there are numerous projects I am thinking about using them for... some of these will require a full range of movements... and a set of Schneider Apo-Digitars with Schneider Electronic Shutters.

They can be useful for simple pictures like consistently capturing a class of vaulters in the middle of the frame without having to allow a great deal of space for cropping,... for a high-jumper or a pirouetting ballet dance, the movements would be useful.

You could put the balloon on a bench, and prick it from underneath, or you could fill it with flammable gas (or liquid) and use a flame (from a suitable distance)

[BertramPaul]

Very entertaining! I tried something like that a long time ago but my results weren't as good as yours. How do you trigger the flash?

Jeremy

Thanks. I made a cable with a hotshoe for the flash and a 3,5 mm jack on the other end. The rest is simply done with a PC and a mike.
I can make them for a reasonable price with a manual.

PM me if interested.

[BertramPaul]

Hi Paul.

I really like the idea and the process.
I think it has to be worked more.
You reveal the trick and it is not necessary. It would be absolutely great if you find a way to do it without your hand and needle and background. Or, if you really want to reveal them, it has to be more engaged in that way, but here, it does not work very well because it looks you did not want them but they are present in the frame.
So I think it is more a matter of isotating the explosion ( as if it was a supernova ) and you will need a projectile (gun, arch etc..) , o integrating the hand and needle in the all process on a more decided way.

But great path, I think if you push the experiments further you will reach very good results.

Cheers,

Fred.

Thanks Fred.
In theory I have a lot to do, but I'm crippled by money and a (small) bedroom as my lab/studio  
I'm already making a mess and I don't think the wife is going to approve of me shooting bbguns in the house. I have a machete and a harpoon, but that's a little dangerous for the neighbors:  that harpoon is so powerful, it will shoot through 2 people standing in line!
But hopefully I'll find some old factory or something like that. There's a lot of old and abandoned buildings here in Portugal, main problem is to find out who owns it.

[BertramPaul]

There are some excellent high-speed photographic experiments on the blog site, of Reno, NV photographer Dan Newton (and also some great landscapes too).  

http://www.liquidinplastic.com/2009/10/high-speed-stuff/

 

[BertramPaul]

Hi Dick.
I'll answer in between, since you have so many questions.

A shutter-beam is the obvious trigger, you can trigger by breaking a beam of light or by sound, and they sell delay boxes as well.

Maybe obvious, but it's a flash trigger, controlled by the PC. The shutter stays open for 2-3 seconds.

What is the delay between firing your camera and the start of the exposure?

I fire the camera first with a remote, then I blow up the balloon. Flash works at time of explosion.

If you use a DSLR, can you shorten it by locking up the mirror?

No need for that; the shutter is wide open.

Might you have to use two shutter-beams, one to trigger the shutter, and one to trigger the flash?

No, just a universal remote from a TV  

How short an exposure do you need to eliminate ambient?

I do it in practically total darkness, so 2-5 seconds is no problem.

Can you shorten the exposure by using the flash in manual mode (or by using a simple manual flash).

Stupidly enough, I thought more power is faster, but it's the other way around. So now I made a few new ones with 1/64 power which equals to 1/25,000 of a second.

What is the duration of the flash?

See above.

Can you shorten this by using a big flash at low power?

Depends on the specs of the flash: faster is better I think, but some people like a little movement.

I have a couple of shutter-beams, and there are numerous projects I am thinking about using them for... some of these will require a full range of movements... and a set of Schneider Apo-Digitars with Schneider Electronic Shutters.

They can be useful for simple pictures like consistently capturing a class of vaulters in the middle of the frame without having to allow a great deal of space for cropping,... for a high-jumper or a pirouetting ballet dance, the movements would be useful.

You could put the balloon on a bench, and prick it from underneath, or you could fill it with flammable gas (or liquid) and use a flame (from a suitable distance)

LOL: I posted some pictures a while ago with fire. I found that of all fluids I tried, petroleum ether burns exactly right: little smoke and beautiful yellow flames, but very expensive !!! So I thought I'd give this a try with a few drops, light it and presto: a picture of a balloon with fire. It seems this liquid and rubber don't like each other: one drop and BOOOOM! Before I could even get the lighter to it    First time I jumped, because it was unexpected.
Your idea of gas is nice to and noted. First the weather has to clear up here. It's been the worst weather here in Portugal I think in a 100 years!

[Dick Roadnight]

If you were working outside for safely/fire risk problems with explosions, or you were working with dancers/vaulters/athletes, you would not be able to work in the dark, and you would need to trigger the shutter.

[BertramPaul]

Accidentally removed the photos. Anyway, here is an updated version, some shots with the flash firing twice in one shot:

High Speed Photography