Sticky filter threads

[Greg D]

I have several filters (B&W, fwiw) with scratchy threads that tend to get stuck very easily, particularly when stacking with other filters (not so much a problem getting stuck on the lens).  I'm disinclined to get oil anywhere near my lenses, but is there any kind of lubricant that can be cautiously applied to the threads?
Thanks

[Slobodan Blagojevic]

I do not know if this is "scientifically" correct, but I used to use a graphite pencil to "lubricate" threads.

[Hening Bettermann]

A good photo machinist can "refresh" the threads.
Good light! - Hening.

[francois]

I've used very small amounts of "dry" weather" chain lubricant such as Finish Line Wax chain Lube ( http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Bicycle-...e/dp/B000RL6G2I ) but graphiite should work very well. Ideally, refreshing threads is the solution.

[Ed Blagden]

I do not know if this is "scientifically" correct, but I used to use a graphite pencil to "lubricate" threads.

Graphite is a good lubricant so you are very much "scientifically" correct.  I hadn't thought of that trick, and I suffer from the same problem with filters, so thanks for the tip.

Ed

[ckimmerle]

Graphite will work to keep the threads lubricated, but won't help much if there is damage. Filters can stick for a few reasons - damaged threads, warping, dirt, etc - and can be on either the male or female threads. As the filter itself is rather week, structurally, the more force exerted when trying to remove, the more the filter housing warps. That makes the filter even harder it is to remove, so more force is exerted, which makes it stick even more, and so on....  That warping is why the problem is worse when dealing with filter on filter as opposed to a filter directly on a lens.

Eventually, the filter body is so out of round, or the threads so damage, it's almost unusable. No amount of graphite will help much once that happens.

I would recommend trying one of those very inexpensive plastic filter wrenches as they provide EVEN pressure around the filter and make removing even stubborn filters very easy. When a filter sticks, there's nothing better.

filter wrench.....$4.95US

[Hening Bettermann]

You can do it with your hands. Use rubber gloves from the kitchen. Hold the lens, grab around the filter in a way to ensure *circular* pressure (forming a "C" with your thumb and index finger) and *increase* pressure gradually as you twist. - I found this tip on the german LF forum long ago, and it fixed one filter that had resisted everything else.
Good light! - Hening.

[Jonathan Wienke]

I've successfully used an automotive oil filter wrench to remove stuck filters.

Molybdenum disulfide is much better than graphite as a thread lubricant; it lubricates under high surface contact pressure extremely well. It also is excellent for trigger/sear engagement surfaces.

[Hening Bettermann]

Follow-up to my above post: I think I forgot that one shall use the "C-grip" with both hands, and of course place the "lens hand" as close as possible to the "filter hand". And twist both, in opposite directions, and increasing the pressure on both.

Good light - Hening.

[Philmar]

I would recommend trying one of those very inexpensive plastic filter wrenches as they provide EVEN pressure around the filter and make removing even stubborn filters very easy. When a filter sticks, there's nothing better.

filter wrench.....$4.95US

I have a similar problem. My rubber lens hood ring is stuck on my Canon 24-70 'L' lens. The hood finally disintegrated after several years of service but the ring remains. I've tried rubber gloves and that hasn't worked. I have applied a lot of force but worry I am doing to break some mechanical gear mechanism in the lens. it would appear thewrench above would be a safer option. Would the plastic wrench work better than the kitchen gloves? or is this thing permanently screwed in?

[DarkPenguin]

For $5 it seems like it would be worth trying.  You've tried the rubber band approach?

[ckimmerle]

The wrenches work great as equal force is applied around the entire filter, which helps control distortion of the mount. If the wrenches won't work, I doubt anything will.

[RodK]

A great way to separate filters is to use 2 5x5 squares of Rubbermaid or similar drawer liner.  Put one square on the palm of each hand and sandwich the filters between and counter rotate your hands.  Should work except for polarizer.
On a polarizer, place the other filter on the liner on the palm of one hand and with the lightest grip possible, using fingers, try to turn the polarizer while pressing the filters into the palm.
Too much pressure with fingers, causes the filters to distort to an oval shape, causing more grip and therefore more difficult to
remove.  And squeezing the filters using both hands yields opposing ovals making it almost impossible to get loose as you are making them tighter.
Graphite is good to help long term, after separating.
Rod

[Jonathan Wienke]

Molybdenum disulfide is even better than graphite. It has better lubrication and sticks to the metal better. My favorite moly lube is Smooth-Kote; it works great on aluminum threads to keep them from galling and binding. It's also excellent gun lube, especially in dusty environments--no sticky to attract dust.

[Jeffacme]

Believe it or not and this is going to sound weird but the best lube for filters and lens shades is with you all the time and can never be overdone.  Nose grease, yes you read correctly, wipe your finger on the outer edge of your nose and run it around the filter threads. The filter will be well lubed and will not seize up when stacked. This trick is also used by fly fisherman to assemble rods with German silver fittings. The very small amount of lube will last a couple months and does not harm metal filters or plastic lens shade bayonets.