sliding back suggestions

[JoeKitchen]

It seems that the amount of literature on accessories to MFDB and equipment is limited and one thing that I have not been able to find much on are the sliding back adapters.  If you use one, what model do you use and what are the benefits of that system?  Looking for info on size, weight, stability, and flexibility when it comes to different mounts.

[MHFA]

I use an ARTEC with built-in slideback. For it is part of the camera it is light and solid. I would never work without a sliding back. I also tried the Linhof sliding back which is a bit bulky, but the Linhof guys promised to make a smaller version for the Techno.

Michael

[archivue]

it depends on the camera and the use... some are just sliding back, others are also stitching back !

you should check the Kapture group website first.

otherwise for arca swiss including the RM3D, you have the Rotaslide made by arca.
it's a sliding back with stitching possibilities, and you can rotate your back also.
Note, that the rotaslide is the only one compatible with the RM3D.

then you have the silvestri, Cambo, Linhof...

[Dick Roadnight]

It seems that the amount of literature on accessories to MFDB and equipment is limited and one thing that I have not been able to find much on are the sliding back adapters.  If you use one, what model do you use and what are the benefits of that system?  Looking for info on size, weight, stability, and flexibility when it comes to different mounts.

What you need depends on:

do you intend to focus with Ground Glass or live view? .. or have to option to do both?
Do you want to just slide for focus, or do you want to shift and stitch?
what image size and shape do you want?
what camera and back will you be using?

I have a Silvestri for Sinar P3/Hasselblad 50 for 2 image stitch and GG focusing... it is awful because:

The sliding back does not hold the digiback securely
the GG is out of reference to the sensor, so  you cannot focus
the viewer gets in the way of the firewire cable

I am thinking about getting the kapture group triple stitch back for the Hasselblad 60, for live view, on the P3 6 * 9 mm format, this this would give 15.2mm overlap on the 40.2mm dimension of the sensor, and a 90 * 53.7mm image that wold be well accommodated by most apo-digitars, and would give a high-quality file of about 134Mpx, which should look good printed 24 * 41" @ 360 original camera pixels per print inch on my Epson 7900?

[JoeKitchen]

Personally I would be looking for a sliding back to use on a bellows camera; I am leaning towards the M Line 2.  I prefer looking through the ground glass to compose and focus so live view is not something that interest me.  Insofar as stitching, would I not be able to determine what areas of the image circle that I would want to stitch, record where the standard is for each of those locations and move the standard when shooting.  This may be a slower way of working, but hey I would be using a view camera anyway, a slow camera.  Something else that concerns me is get a sliding back that which holds that sensor in the same position as the ground glass and is very stable, as a matter a fact this is the most important thing I think.  

Will have to look at what you have suggested so far.

[ced]

Check the Kapturegroup site and you will get a good idea of what is available:http://www.kapturegroup.com/solution/three.html

[Dustbak]

I use a Kapturegroup Stitching sliding back and would not want anything else again. It is so much nicer than all the other options I have used. My back is held tight to the adapter. I can easily change between vertical and horizontal though I prefer vertical because horizontal I can make while stitching. The view on the groundglass is practically dead-on. The sliding is also very smooth.

Yes, I can certainly recommend the Kapturegroup solution.

[CBarrett]

I use a Kapturegroup Stitching sliding back and would not want anything else again. It is so much nicer than all the other options I have used. My back is held tight to the adapter. I can easily change between vertical and horizontal though I prefer vertical because horizontal I can make while stitching. The view on the groundglass is practically dead-on. The sliding is also very smooth.

Yes, I can certainly recommend the Kapturegroup solution.

+1


Actually, I'll be picking up an RM3D today to try out for a few days, not sure if it will come with a Rotaslide, but if it does I'll compare the two.  My Kapture Group slider seems to hold he back in the same focal plane as the ground glass... at least as accurately as my eyes can tell... my first captures are typically sharp, frequently requiring very little or no focus adjustment.

[asf]

+1


Actually, I'll be picking up an RM3D today to try out for a few days, not sure if it will come with a Rotaslide, but if it does I'll compare the two.  My Kapture Group slider seems to hold he back in the same focal plane as the ground glass... at least as accurately as my eyes can tell... my first captures are typically sharp, frequently requiring very little or no focus adjustment.

Do you think you could measure the precision of your sliding back setup (with back attached) as you did previously with your M line? 4 corners of GG vs 4 corners of sensor ... And if the R2m2 comes with Rotaslide perhaps measure that too? That would be interesting ...

[Steve Hendrix]

Certainly the camera itself is going to dictate to a degree which sliding back you use. Arca Swiss doesn't make sliding backs for Sinar view cameras, vice versa, and etc.

The first thing I would do is determine which camera I want, then choose a sliding back. The KaptureGroup version will always be an option as well as the version from the manufacturer of the camera (most of whom offer their own sliding back).

I will say this about the KaptureGroup sliding backs. They are reasonably priced, they are machined well. They are compact. Most importantly, whenever there has been an issue where an adjustment was needed, Keith Hughes (owner, KG) was extremely forthcoming and prompt. He's a big part of the reason I sell mostly the KaptureGroup adapters.

I have had an issue with getting a camera manufacturer's sliding back that had the proper tolerance on the rails so there wasn't any play. Back and forth, overseas, etc.

The camera is the key. Line up your camera first - then talk sliding back.


Steve Hendrix

[Harold Clark]

Actually, I'll be picking up an RM3D today to try out for a few days, not sure if it will come with a Rotaslide, but if it does I'll compare the two.  My Kapture Group slider seems to hold he back in the same focal plane as the ground glass... at least as accurately as my eyes can tell... my first captures are typically sharp, frequently requiring very little or no focus adjustment.
[/quote]

Please let us know your impressions of the RM3D after you have tried it. I like the fact that it should work with longer lenses as well with a rear bellows extension.

[Dustbak]

+1


Actually, I'll be picking up an RM3D today to try out for a few days, not sure if it will come with a Rotaslide, but if it does I'll compare the two.  My Kapture Group slider seems to hold he back in the same focal plane as the ground glass... at least as accurately as my eyes can tell... my first captures are typically sharp, frequently requiring very little or no focus adjustment.

I see you use it with the RMFX finder. Don't you find it annoying to have to look from the top in? I currently use the Hartblei version of the HM2 (which even gives a bit more enlargement). I have used the RMFX with my KG truewide and recall having problems now and then. Than again, I use it for table top work mostly maybe your perspective is generally lower?

I second Steves remark about Keith Hughes. Great guy to work with, even when he is across the ocean (from my point of view).

[CBarrett]

Do you think you could measure the precision of your sliding back setup (with back attached) as you did previously with your M line? 4 corners of GG vs 4 corners of sensor ... And if the R2m2 comes with Rotaslide perhaps measure that too? That would be interesting ...

Honestly, I'm not quite sure how I would go about that.  I can place a dial indicator along the base and look for a variance as I slide the back over.  This would tell you if one slider has more slop than the other.  But as far as comparing focal planes... I'm not sure what I'd do... maybe place a block across the standard and measure down to the surface of the UV filter and then where do you measure on the groundglass?  Where exactly does the focal plane lie?  Somewhere between the screen and the fresnel?  Even if it was the inner face of the fresnel, which I believe it is not, the measuring device would have to move and I wouldn't expect high accuracy, at least not with the tools that I've got, which are mainly used in restoring old motorcycles  : )

I could do a visual test, though and just see which one actually gives me a sharp image after focusing with a loupe, which is really what we're all after anyway, no?  Then again, the test is subject to the deficiencies of 40 year old eyes.

-CB

[JdeV]

+1


Actually, I'll be picking up an RM3D today to try out for a few days, not sure if it will come with a Rotaslide, but if it does I'll compare the two.  My Kapture Group slider seems to hold he back in the same focal plane as the ground glass... at least as accurately as my eyes can tell... my first captures are typically sharp, frequently requiring very little or no focus adjustment.

One advantage of the Arca Rotaslide is that the ground glass is larger than the Kapture Group which makes it better if you want to stitch a full 6x9 frame or shoot with a film back.

I would be very interested indeed in your experience with the RM3D. Of paramount relevance is your assessment of the accuracy of the helical focus when used with a Leica D5 distance-finder or equivalent with shifts. Also, how quick and practical this is.

The million dollar question is: can the camera be reliably used for critical location view camera work without a laptop?

I am sure you have also considered the RL3D (which is attractive because of its greater movements, use for larger scale stitching, 5" x4" film potential, future-proofing for bigger sensor backs etc).

[CBarrett]

I see you use it with the RMFX finder. Don't you find it annoying to have to look from the top in? I currently use the Hartblei version of the HM2 (which even gives a bit more enlargement). I have used the RMFX with my KG truewide and recall having problems now and then. Than again, I use it for table top work mostly maybe your perspective is generally lower?

I second Steves remark about Keith Hughes. Great guy to work with, even when he is across the ocean (from my point of view).

Actually, I'm not getting a lot of use out of the viewer, not real usable at wider (shorter) than 55mm.  But yes, my camera is often below chest height and backed against a wall (where the angle finder is a God-send!)

I concur, Kapture Group sliders are beautifully machined and I sent Keith my compliments shortly after purchasing mine.  It did become "sticky" after about  6 months.  I disassembled and cleaned it, sparingly applied some Phil's Bicycle Grease and its silky smooth again.

[CBarrett]

One advantage of the Arca Rotaslide is that the ground glass is larger than the Kapture Group which makes it better if you want to stitch a full 6x9 frame or shoot with a film back.

I would be very interested indeed in your experience with the RM3D. Of paramount relevance is your assessment of the accuracy of the helical focus when used with a Leica D5 distance-finder or equivalent with shifts. Also, how quick and practical this is.

The million dollar question is: can the camera be reliably used for critical location view camera work without a laptop?

I am sure you have also considered the RL3D (which is attractive because of its greater movements, use for larger scale stitching, 5" x4" film potential, future-proofing for bigger sensor backs etc).

I do miss the size of the 6x9 ground glass, I made an acetate mask for mine on inkjet and having the dark translucent mask provided a nice way to be aware of what was just outside of frame (and stitching of course).

I prefer to shoot to laptop to achieve greatest accuracy.  I expect you can achieve acceptable focus with many of the available systems without being tethered, I just feel more comfortable being able to zoom into the image at 100%.  Maybe I should just spend a day shooting exteriors downtown without the laptop to see how good I can do.

[archivue]

"The million dollar question is: can the camera be reliably used for critical location view camera work without a laptop?"

with an RM3D, you don't need a laptop !

the nice thing with the rotaslide is that you can use the binocular, but i use a rodenstock 6x loupe for focusing !

i still have some trouble for focusing with my 35 xl and F line... i'm not 100% certain without a laptop !

i've tried the RM3D last month, and find it to be very precise and definitely quicker than a bellow camera...
i've tried a M2 as well, and find it to be a real improvement over my F line, but i will go for a RM3D or a MAX.
the nice thing with Alpa, is that you can share your lenses with different bodies, but for my use, being able to share my lenses
between a RM3D type and a F line makes more sense.

The Kapture Group STITCHING back have a "big" screen also !

[CBarrett]

but for my use, being able to share my lenses
between a RM3D type and a F line makes more sense.

Is that the case, Archie?  If so there may be an RM3D in my very near future!  I'm intrigued, haven't seen an adapter for this, or do you mean by mounting the whole RM3D as the front standard?

-CB

[archivue]

if you have an RM3D then you can buy a special adaptor (special order around 300$) for RM3D lenses on arca 110.

but there is one limitation... it's a flat adaptor !

to mount the lenses on your M2, you need to remove both rings from the lens and to screw the lense onto the adaptor lensboard.


you have a second option, is to use the  RM3D as a front standard, and then you need a short support for the back (misura style).

[archivue]