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Author Topic: Shooting in the cold  (Read 3142 times)

Hywel

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Shooting in the cold
« on: January 04, 2010, 12:19:58 pm »

Hi All,

  I just got back from a New Year break above the arctic circle. As this was a holiday, I deliberately didn't even take a camera. However, the lighting conditions were so unusual and beautiful that I am strongly thinking of going back with camera in hand.

  My question is- what sort of temperatures do the various cameras function down to?

Specifically, I have an H3DII-31 and Canon 40D/5D/5DMk2 as well as an old film Mamiya 7 II. Anyone have any experience of these in extreme conditions?

The temperature on the coldest day was -35 degrees C (-31 Fahrenheit). People were trying to shoot with compacts and they froze up after two or three shots, with all sorts of problems with the lens cover slide mechanisms sticking, batteries giving out (which seemed to be pretty universal) and all manner of other problems. The only person with an SLR had a relatively low-end Canon, and she said the shutter mechanism froze up on that.

  I'm guessing that the two common factors here are the performance of the battery, and the lubricants in the camera mechanisms solidifying. The battery issue is easier to deal with, as I'd certainly hope that keeping several batteries on the go inside one's clothing and just swapping it onto the camera to take a few shots would be workable. The issue of the lubricants would worry me more.

  I vaguely recall that people working in the Antartic used to favour all-mechanical film Nikons and Leicas but I've no idea what the current state of the art is. I'd hate to spend thousands of pounds booking a shooting trip and find the cameras totally failing. I'd take several systems as backup anyway and swap between them, but if anyone has any advice I'd be very interested to hear it.

  Hywel.

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feppe

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Shooting in the cold
« Reply #1 on: January 04, 2010, 12:35:32 pm »

Despite being from Finland, I don't have much advice apart from keeping the batteries warm until used, and avoiding condensation to get on the camera when coming back inside by putting it in a plastic bag. Can't imagine much you can do with the lubricants, though - changing them is a bit of a challenge, unlike in cars. I avoid the cold myself...

There's a loooong thread titled "home sweet home at 50 below zero" or something like that, the OP should have more useful info.

Gary Brown

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« Reply #2 on: January 04, 2010, 02:15:23 pm »

Here are a couple of articles on this site that might be of interest, reviewing equipment performance on Antarctic trips:

Antarctica 2007 – What Worked? What Didn't.

Antarctica 2009: What Worked – What Didn't
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Hywel

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Shooting in the cold
« Reply #3 on: January 04, 2010, 03:08:13 pm »

Hi,

  Thanks, those threads and articles do help... be very interested to hear from anyone who has used a digital Hasselblad in the cold!

  Cheers, Hywel

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wolfnowl

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Shooting in the cold
« Reply #4 on: January 04, 2010, 04:17:04 pm »

If you`re planning on taking your film cameras with you there are two things to watch out for.  Depending on the camera of course, you can shoot a film camera without batteries, so that`s handy.  Loading film can get tricky though as when film gets really cold it can get brittle.  Also really cold weather tends to be dry, and you can get `lightning`effects from static sparks on your film.  

Probably the best suggestion when shooting in the cold is to wear several layers, keep the front of your parka somewhat open and store your camera inside (leave the lens sticking out) between images.  This will help.

Mike.
« Last Edit: January 04, 2010, 04:17:36 pm by wolfnowl »
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Eric Myrvaagnes

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Shooting in the cold
« Reply #5 on: January 04, 2010, 04:53:20 pm »

Quote from: wolfnowl
If you`re planning on taking your film cameras with you there are two things to watch out for.  Depending on the camera of course, you can shoot a film camera without batteries, so that`s handy.  Loading film can get tricky though as when film gets really cold it can get brittle.  Also really cold weather tends to be dry, and you can get `lightning`effects from static sparks on your film.  

Probably the best suggestion when shooting in the cold is to wear several layers, keep the front of your parka somewhat open and store your camera inside (leave the lens sticking out) between images.  This will help.

Mike.
And wind the film s-l-o-w-l-y so as to minimize chances of breakage or static sparks.

I use my Canon 5D regularly at temperatures down to a few degrees below zero Fahrenheit, and the camera seems to work fine. For a couple of hours photographing I find it necessary to have three fully-charged batteries, one in the camera and two that I keep in an inside pocket so they stay warm. They run down very quickly in cold temperatures, but do revive somewhat when given a chance to warm up in the inside pocket or back in the car with the heater on.


My old Mamiya 6 film camera worked fine in fairly cold weather.

Eric

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DarkPenguin

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Shooting in the cold
« Reply #6 on: January 04, 2010, 11:55:32 pm »

A few things I've learned.

If your camera is not weather sealed be sure to not breath into the back of it when you're holding it to your face.  That is the fast lane to err99.

Do not touch a quality tripod head without gloves.  A typical RRS or Kirk ballhead is a block of aluminium the size of my car's engine and will pull all of the heat out of you through your finger tips.

Bring a lot of batteries.  Keep them close to your person or a hand warmer.  (Don't bake em.  You don't want them to go all sony lithium ion on you.)
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Hening Bettermann

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« Reply #7 on: January 05, 2010, 11:29:34 am »

A thing  have experienced with the Canon 5D2 is that in about -5 degrees Celsius, the magnifying loupe of the live view can no longer be moved all the way to the edge of the display, but is confined to a (generous) central part. Also, a central square is displayed. Wonder if this is some sort of intended power saving? (Wonder how much power can be saved this way).

Hening.

Brammers

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« Reply #8 on: January 05, 2010, 08:06:38 pm »

All the times I've been shooting in seriously cold conditions (- 35 celcius or so) I've frozen long before my camera!  

Batteries are the obvious one, they really do go fast, and condensation.  I can't reccomend touching any glass in those conditions either, cleaning things when it's so cold just seems to make things worse.  

I guess my best piece of advice is to have 2 pairs of gloves.  I've got an insanely thick pair of mittens which kept my hands toasty, but standing on a hillside facing a howling gale in -30C conditions meant that I could literally only take them off for about 5 seconds before I was in too much pain to go on!  A pair of thinner gloves to wear under my thicker ones that I could work my camera with would have been very handy.
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BernardLanguillier

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« Reply #9 on: January 06, 2010, 02:53:48 am »

Quote from: Gary Brown
Here are a couple of articles on this site that might be of interest, reviewing equipment performance on Antarctic trips:

Antarctica 2007 – What Worked? What Didn't.

Antarctica 2009: What Worked – What Didn't

Probably not, they hardly had below zero temp during these trips.

Cheers,
Bernard

BernardLanguillier

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Shooting in the cold
« Reply #10 on: January 06, 2010, 02:57:34 am »

I have shot a lot between -10c and -20c with my D3x and have never experienced any problem, even when sleeping in tents of snow caves.

Battery behavior is also close to what it is at ambiant temp, meaning around 1000 images per battery charge.

Cheers,
Bernard

thierrylegros396

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« Reply #11 on: January 06, 2010, 07:17:29 am »

Almost all batteries cannot deliver more than about 1/10 of their capacity below -20°C.

So keep them in a pocket near your body until use.

Thierry
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Jon Meddings

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Shooting in the cold
« Reply #12 on: January 06, 2010, 10:42:15 am »

Hywel,

I hope you do go back with one of your camera's. I'm in Western Canada and love taking shots outdoors over winter. The low light and the contrasts in the scenes from the typical summer shots are wonderful. I've used similar Canon equipment to you over the years and found much the same as the other posters.

  • batteries find the cold tough. Taking them out in between shoots and warming them up works wonders
  • Mitts (not gloves) with a pair of light gloves inside allows you to stay warm and work the camera well with the light gloves on.
  • Make certain you dress in layers as you are often standing around waiting for the light and it is not pleasant if you get cold.
  • Be careful about getting your tripod legs wet - if there is open water around getting some of this into your tripod leg mechanism and having it freeze is a sure fire way of converting a wonderful Gitzo into the equivalent of a tree branch for the remainder of your hike...

Anyhow - I would encourage you to go back as it is magical.  Here is a shot taken the other week at -30 C at the edge of the Canadian Rockies

http://www.pbase.com/meddings/image/120764816/original
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Jerry Clement

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Shooting in the cold
« Reply #13 on: January 07, 2010, 08:34:20 am »

I am out in cold weather with my Canon gear every week-end all winter here in Southern Alberta, and temperatures down to -30 Celsius is not a problem for the gear itself. I find that after 2 hours out in -30 Celsius temperatures, you may have to change out your batteries for a warm set that I carry in a inner pocket near my body. The battery voltage drops in the cold temperatures, much like the batteries in our cars under similar temperatures. The batteries that you remove from your camera will recover and may be used again once they are warmed in a inner pocket. In extreme cold (-40 C), I have used chemical hand warmers (available at sporting good stores) in a pocket of my parka to keep batteries warm. With vehicles, a battery warmer is utilized that is plugged in along with the engine block heater over-night. I had more problems with my film cameras years ago than I do with my DSLR's today when out in the cold. When exiting a warm vehicle at -30 Celsius, allow your cameras to climatize (condensation on the glass to clear) and then your good to go. Do not try to place your camera in your jacket near your body, as this will cause condensation problems. I find that my cameras will function in the cold as long as I want to remain out and about. Again, extra batteries is all thats required.

...the cold fingers problem, I found out a long time ago that my fingers were a much bigger problem to keep functioning than my cameras.
All things being equal (fabrics, thickness, and insulation), mittens are warmer than gloves. Mitts trap body heat by keeping your fingers together and reducing evaporative heat loss. In frigid temperatures, I use a layered mitt system. At one time or another I used mitts with a complete gortex waterproof outer shell. However, because of the stiffness of a complete gortex outer shell, I now use outer mitts with cuffs that have a combination of gortex and goat leather palms that allows me to hold my cameras more sucurely. I also wear mitts with a removable inner layer, as layers dry faster than one heavily insulated piece, and let you swap out wet layers. However, gloves offer better grip and dexterity for using cameras. Therefore, I use a thin (very thin) pair of fleece gloves inside of my mitts. If it is extremelly cold, I will keep my mitts on untill I need the extra dexterity. At that point I drop my mitts which are lanyarded to my wrists and in easy reach when required. My fleece gloves now allow me to use my cameras as easily as without gloves. You want mitts with cuffs, as cuffs keep out snow and insulate the wrist – an area of high heat loss. Look for cuffs that fit snugly but don’t impede circulation.
In real cold conditions, I carry a extra pair of these thin fleece gloves in the inside pocket of my jacket near my body. This ensures I always have warm gloves to swap out when my fingers get really cold from being out of my over-mitts to long. I found that my fingers will warm up quicker this way when I have allowed them to get to cold before putting my mitts back on.
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