Thanks for that, I was biting my tongue...
Shutter speed has no bearing whatsoever on the exposure if there is no ambient light. Aperture variations between lenses have no bearing on the exposure, either, if you're comparing the same camera/lens shot-to-shot.
That is the entire basis for our testing.
Anyway, the offer's still on, anyone want some real data on their systems, just DM me.
Hi Ted, Hi Jonathan,
Ok guys, thanks for pointing out, BUT - I never talked about shutter speed, what I actually meant was shutter release and the following setting of the aperture in the lense from full open to the working aperture. This is a new mechanical setting done each new exposure, why do you assume there will be no tolerances from shot to shot alone through the camera?
(May I quote from your review: "There is variation from head to head and from channel to channel, but not more than what we’re seeing just from flash to flash, making it pretty difficult to come to any conclusions about where any variations are coming from.")
But regarding shutter speed (for the first time): It can have influence, too. It does not really matter if the shutter speed is near the max sync speed but if the whole flash duration fits in the time window. For example: Bron Scoro has a flash duration of 1/132s at max power (this is test series three) and can even be set down to 1/85s with other powersetting, so even using a leaf-shutter being able to sync 1/500s can "cut" some light when set to slow 1/100, which is far from the max snyc speed, OK? BTW, leaf shutter times are defined from the beginning of opening until complete closing, it´s not the time being full open, flash sync is given reaching full opening. Using radio-sync, especially with channel separation will add some delay to flash sync, making things even worse. For these reasons you can get a lot more light from a big pack, especially the older ones, if you use slower shutter speeds with leaf shutters. (Regarding the equal max. output of both systems: Which shutter speed did you use during your tests? To which measuring time was your flashmeter set or working with? ...)
FYI, color temp of my bron lampbase is 5500K, measured with FCC (non esoteric Camera/software measurement configuration) - and I am reading this result every pop. Just tried 10 times with setting 8.0, using Grafit packs. Color temp with Scoro is 5600K, opt. color (no different readings between the pops) or 5800K set to speed mode, giving constant color but NOT shortest flash duration. The Profoto system is supposed to be very close to that color, too. With your tools used you will probably find out daylight in Boston is around 4650K :-)
So, have fun, go on making your tests, but be careful with the results (and biting your tongue), nothing more to say.
Cheers, Ulf
