Topic: Canvas Printing (Read 6301 times)

Craig Murphy · « **on:** November 09, 2009, 06:34:06 pm »

I'd just like to say that printing on canvas is a b**ch.

dchew · « **Reply #1 on:** November 09, 2009, 06:50:33 pm »

I've never done it, but you should talk to bill t.

He prints canvas a lot, and has a post about how to keep your printer clean...
http://luminous-landscape.com/forum/index....showtopic=38910

dgberg · « **Reply #2 on:** November 09, 2009, 06:53:25 pm »

Not quite sure what you mean. Just about all I print is canvas so easy and effortless it is fantastic. I have set up my business model around canvas and what a great decision. Can you elaborate?

Craig Murphy · « **Reply #3 on:** November 10, 2009, 10:30:51 am »

Like Bill T says its a whole different way of looking at images on screen to get the match on canvas as far a not having shadows blocking up etc. Looking at the soft proof after clicking on 'simulate paper color' makes the prints look so crappy its hard to figure where you should go with adjustments but I think you have to do it. The first set I did not do that. Only selecting 'simulate black ink. Going to take more practice. Are you selecting 'simulate paper color' when soft proofing? I'm printing on Breathing Color Lyve btw.
I posted right after having to reprint two 16x20's because I thought they were ok until looking at them. A little too dark/muddy. Dark and muddy seems to be the biggest color management issue with canvas. Reprinted again and ok. This morning though a damn white spot on solid grey area suddenly appeared on one of them. Jeez. Have to reprint one for the second time. Also what looks like a thumbprint in the corner where maybe I grabbed it coming out of the printer. I just meant that canvas printing is more finicky.

Scott Martin · « **Reply #4 on:** November 10, 2009, 10:43:55 am »

I've found printing on canvas to be a lot more forgiving than most other papers. It handles easily, doesn't kink as easily and good canvas materials have an incredibly durable surface that's less susceptible to fingerprints, scratching, etc. I've been working with a 5x7 foot print size exclusively for the past few years and the advantages at this size are particularly important. As for color management, you certainly need to print and coat your profiling target as you would your final prints prior to measuring and generating profiles. If you do so, you won't have any issues with blocked up shadows and the like - that's a color management problem, not a canvas problem. If you are having problems with fingerprints and surface durability you might consider switching to a different canvas. Significant advances have been made in just the last year. Applying an liquid laminate to canvas makes them even more durable.

Craig Murphy · « **Reply #5 on:** November 10, 2009, 11:13:21 am »

Thanks Scott and Dan for the replies. Yeah. I'm using the profile from Breathing Color that they do for you. Sent them in. Coated with Glamour II like I coat them now. Just going to take some time to practice. Bill T does have a thread here where he discusses how its a different approach with canvas. If I remember correctly, some good solid blacks at the low end and then making sure your midtones are bright enough. Not having any particular fingerprint problem. Just that one that I may have grabbed the wrong way coming off the machine. Anyway. I'm working now with Lyve which is a matte canvas. I was using Black Diamond Satin which is much easier to get a snappy looking image from. I may go back. Matte canvas. I don't know. Not sure it can compete with a satin finish canvas although I do like the surface of Lyve better than Black Diamond. Its also less expensive.

Thomas Krüger · « **Reply #6 on:** November 10, 2009, 11:54:50 am »

BTW, anybody tried the You-Frame aluminium kit to mount canvas?
At the bottom of the page is a video: http://www.you-frame.eu/en/home.html

StevenSzabo · « **Reply #7 on:** November 12, 2009, 03:00:05 pm »

never tried it...it appears to be the same idea as hanehmule's(sp?) stick and stretch and stick and stretch pro kits...just aluminum and without the corner clamps...and with the addition of software. thanks for the link...I have been looking at the hanehmule kits and it's good to know there's other options.

Although on further inspection it doesn't appear that they have any North American Distribution as of yet

dgberg · « **Reply #8 on:** November 12, 2009, 06:22:45 pm »

Sorry Craig do not mean to be little your issues. But I don't do any of those things you are fussing with. Download images,post process in Lightroom,send to Genuine Fractals 6 for uprezing set paper size and print. I get about one out of 10 that is a little dark thats about it. Again I am not a color fanatic or anything close. Print output is so good with my 7900 and new 9900 I have even been skipping the proofing step.
What printer are you using? Would like to help if I can.

Thomas Krüger · « **Reply #9 on:** November 13, 2009, 12:31:17 am »

Quote from: StevenSzabo

...and with the addition of software. thanks for the link...

Using Qimage the Colorgate software (999 €) seems to be pretty much overprized. For creating the gallery wrap there are other methods in Qimage or Photoshop actions like the Canvas Wraps from Ernst Dinkla at http://www.pigment-print.com/dinklacanvaswraps/index.html

You-Frame sells also the plain mouldings in a length of 2 meter. So a couple of mouldings plus the corner kit is all you need, add a simple NOBEX Proman 110 from http://www.nobex.se and you can start with canvas framing.

PS: The Hahnemühle Gallerie-Wraps video is here: http://www.hahnemuehle.com/site/en/216/gallerie-wraps.html

Craig Murphy · « **Reply #10 on:** November 13, 2009, 09:48:30 am »

Hey Dan,
Right now I'm printing on Lyve but I'm using PK inks on my 9800. Had Breathing C. do a profile and prints are coming out pretty much ok especially after spraying with Glam II but it still seems easy to have prints that come out blocked up and just kind of dull. Its just a matter of me getting used to screen to print match. I am definitely having to brighten up the midtones for canvas as compared to Epson Lustre for example. One thing I can't see right now is the difference between printing on this canvas with PK vs MK ink. BC, in there opinion, feels that the black density difference is not that great. Great, is a relative term however. I am thinking about going back to Black Diamond Lustre. More expensive however but easier for me to get better prints from. I have a profile from Andrew R also. Like I said I'm just not seeing yet where matte canvas can compete with a lustre version. Kind of like the same reason the owner of this site said he was pretty much done with matte papers ever since Ilford Gallerie Gold came out. (I think that is what Michael said. Correct me if I'm wrong.) I started using Lyve because Black Diamond is a pretty physically stiff canvas but now that I am mounting to Gator or masonite stretching is no longer an issue.

dgberg · « **Reply #11 on:** November 14, 2009, 03:06:54 am »

Thanks Craig,
Many have the light/ dark issue so its not just you and me. I am still using mostly matte canvases with Glamor II mixed 50/50 for a nice semi sheen. All the satin canvases I have tried were way to shiney and I was having to draw the sheen down with almost a straight matte Glamor II. I do mostly stretching and still fight cracking corners on ocassion. I push these through pretty fast so the Glamor is still soft and super easy to damage when I am stretching or have them turned upside down attaching hangers and so forth.
I may have the answer. I have a roll of Lexjets Instant dry canvas on the way. Did some research,called around and talked to several shops using this in large quantities. These guys are printing and within an hour are stretching and out the door. No Glamor II nothing. The ink drys super fast and is supposed to sink into the surface and has some protection from the elements. I am not saying Glamor II would not make it better but for my canvas workshops it is exactly what I have been looking for.
We need to turn a workshop in one day not 2. With this product we can have the attendees bring an image to class,process it,print,build the frame,stretch and ready to take home in a 1 day course. Its also a free-bee so to speak so skipping the Glamor process in this case is acceptable. The client could varnish it themselves at home if they choose. We would have other images printed ahead of time and properly dried to demonstrate the Glamor II process at the workshop.
Boy if this works and I can skip the Glamor process in most cases I will be one happy camper.

Craig Murphy · « **Reply #12 on:** November 14, 2009, 09:11:46 am »

New Lexjet Instant Dry. 44' roll. $302.00!! Yikes.

dgberg · « **Reply #13 on:** November 14, 2009, 10:01:02 am »

You have to look at what you sell this stuff for. I get 30 cents a aquare inch for canvas gallery wraps off a 44" roll. Thats $43.20 a square foot. The canvas is just slightly over $2.00 a square foot. See what I mean.
A much better profit margin in large prints which is why I added a 9900. This is very custom work processing, printing and gallery wrapping very large images. No one in our local area sells this type of work as it is pretty much a niche market and will probably take a little time to get rolling.

Author Topic: Canvas Printing (Read 6301 times)